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Old 04-15-2012, 12:41 AM   #11
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Read on this section it might help to
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:47 AM   #12
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which segment did i need to go to after opening this page. My manual I tried reading througgh it on things i wanted to learn about and it shows hardly anything if at all on anything I wanna learn about. this manual seems almost useless that came with the camper
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:52 AM   #13
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Yes manual is useless its very generic.
Your better off going to the actual products site and read item specific manuals.
Such as for the fridge if its a dometic go to dometic web site.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:55 AM   #14
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which segment did i need to go to after opening this page. My manual I tried reading througgh it on things i wanted to learn about and it shows hardly anything if at all on anything I wanna learn about. this manual seems almost useless that came with the camper
Any of those segments may be helpful to you in general for learning more about your camper.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:57 AM   #15
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Thank you I will try that. zThank you for helping me out
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:01 AM   #16
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No problem!
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:11 AM   #17
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the water filter could have burst during cold weather if left with water in it. if urs didn't leak when u first pressured it up, that may not have been what did it.

if u can post a picture of the water connections, it would help. the manuel that came with my trailer didn't have enough detail in it for me.

on my trailer, the city water fill and fresh water holding tank fill are next to each other. the city water fill has a screw on cap on it. a hose will go into it but u can't screw one onto it. u will also see a small vent near the fresh water fill. if this is plugged, the tank won't fill (if there is water in a loop in the vent, it won't fill).

the one (on mine) with a hose connection with sewer marked on it is a black water flush (it blows water on the level probes). this line has a loop on the inside with a back flow preventer on it (usually out of site). you open the black water drain when u use this. it may not seem like anything is going in but u will see water coming out the drain. when u disconnect, u may see water come back but this is not from the black tank. the pressure is bleeding off between the hose connection and the back flow presenter. it also drains to the inside to the black tank.

these may not be the lines ur talking abt. i got into one of these discussions with someone with a motor home and it turned out their sewer flush line and the city water connection were next to each other.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:19 PM   #18
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thank you all for the help youve given me and here is a couple pics of the hookup and the water pur canister that busted. let me know how to use the hookup. do I need to have the pump on to use the hookup
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:14 PM   #19
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it's what it reads...definitely a sewer flush. if u could see the other side the line would probably make a vertical loop with a check at the top of the loop. when u hook a hose to it, it opens the check and sparys water in ur black tank and on the level probes. when u shut off the water and disconnect, water will come back but it is from the loop. the check (actually a back flow prevented) stops the black water from coming back but it will give the illusion that it is.

as stated on the label, the black dump valve should be open.

i believe mine has a check and a vent. when u apply pressure the check opens and closes off the vent. the vent is on the pressure side. when u remove the pressure, the loop drains. the vent prevents it from syponing. the pressure u see is in the line. the black tank is vented so the pressure doesn't come from there.

i believe ur canister froze. if u had built enough pressure with a water hose, i believe something else would have given. that would be my opinion. it would be better to replace the canister but u may try getting some jv weld and see if it will hold...assuming u can find the piece that broke off.

(most people are going to use the term check valve and back flow preventer interchangeably...including me... the backflow preventer is more of a two stage device...a check and a vent or another check)

when u hook up a hose to the sewer flush, use a seperate dedicated hose (not ur drinking water hose). to make it look good, put a check valve in that line or someone may see it and get upset. we don't live in a perfect world so with a couple failures, u could get contaminated water back.
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
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when u hook up a hose to the sewer flush, use a seperate dedicated hose (not ur drinking water hose). to make it look good, put a check valve in that line or someone may see it and get upset. we don't live in a perfect world so with a couple failures, u could get contaminated water back.
Great post. I wanted to make sure that was noted, you beat me to it.

I've never seen a filter housing break like that when it froze... Not that it couldn't, I've always seen them crack down in the filter part, not the threads.

It couldn't have been over tightened, or cross threaded. Regardless, its broken now.

Depending on what material its made from, I'd use a solvent based glue, like PVC or ABS pipe glue. But I have a feeling it just needs to be replaced. The OP might get lucky and find a similar filter housing and be able to just pirate the cup instead of having to change the whole filter out.
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