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Old 10-25-2013, 11:41 AM   #21
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Fiver was the only way to go for us, love the room, love the inside height, easy to hookup and unhook, only one motor to take care of, F250, diesel, CC, longbed, RWD, and cost. I would not like to travel without transportation, class c without toad, means that you have to drive it as transportation after you get to an RV park and setup. You do need a $40,000 truck to pull it because if you go used for the truck, you will pay a high price for a truck with lots of miles on it. Good Luck
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:11 PM   #22
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Great to read everyone's responses. We love our class C for a lot of the middle ground reasons. Ours is a 3170 so just big enough to live in part time and just small enough to drive around with out a toad.
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:17 PM   #23
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I chose the forester 3051S with the Ford chassis so i COULD pull a toad. I am a disabled vet that needs a mobility scooter to get around. I carry my mobility scooter in the back of my 2013 Ford Transit and we also have a bike rack with two bicycles which means I need to tow around 6000lbs. I did not want to drive a Bus and the wife wouldn't, so that left either a toy hauler or Forester River Forester with the ford chassis. When we walked into the 3051S it was love at first site. It is a monster of a class C but really not hard to drive, which was proven by my wife driving it. The 3051S can Tow 7500lbs but for some reason the factory sends them out with a class C Hitch rated for 5000lbs. I now am in a battle with the dealer to install the proper hitch. it has been 4 weeks of run around and i am waiting for a call today from salesman. If i don't get response today, well lets just say messing with a disabled vet is something you do not want to do. lol
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:53 PM   #24
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My fave to date was the 28' class c; $ issues prevented us from keeping her but she went to a good home . I liked the fp, easy to drive and park, self contained and not too big.
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:56 PM   #25
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We started out with a 26' Class C (an '85 with a Ford 460-carb motor). What a turkey. Doghouse side surfaces in the cab got hot enough to melt shoe soles. The exhaust manifolds warped ($1300), the brake fluid cooked off it volatile components and gummed up the brakes ($800). Also. the floor-plan was not comfortable (corner double bed and pedestal tables).

We managed to get rid of it, at a $6000 loss, and quit the RV life for a while. Three years ago we got back into it with our Georgetown. We didn't want to tow because we didn't want a big pick-up as our daily driver.

The GT isn't a Rolls Royce, but it wasn't a bad deal - original, very fastidious owners for 8 years and only 12,000 miles. We do about 5,000 miles a year, so we live with the box-truck ride and save the money for gas and CG fees.

The only drawback is that our daily driver (an '03 Kia Sedona) has a 4800-pound kerb weight. It would cost more than its resale value to equip it for flat tow and to dolly tow (even if we could find a dolly that could carry it) would run us way past our 5000-pound hitch limit. We plan our trips so that we do our sightseeing en-route, even if we only go 50 miles to the next CG because we want to look around an area.
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #26
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So what do you think the biggest differences between the CLASS A and the CLASS C ?

For those that have owned both this should be a good question.
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