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Old 05-24-2018, 04:52 PM   #11
jkoenig24
 
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BUY and READ Mike Sokol's book "No Shock Zone". It's available as an eBook or hard copy at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2DWBD8...ng=UTF8&btkr=1

It'll be the BEST money you'll spend on your RV.
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Old 05-24-2018, 04:56 PM   #12
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Unless you're dead set on laying down some C-Notes and lining Jeff Bezos' pockets, you can pick up one of these circuit testers for around $10 at any hardware store, or Walmart:
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoenig24 View Post
BUY and READ Mike Sokol's book "No Shock Zone". It's available as an eBook or hard copy at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2DWBD8...ng=UTF8&btkr=1

It'll be the BEST money you'll spend on your RV.
x2. First book I bought after purchasing the coach. Also purchased a non-contact voltage tester and the DW got me a new multi meter dedicated to the coach for last years Christmas present.
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:14 PM   #14
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More measurements

Quote:
Originally Posted by lugoismad View Post
LOL, for sure.

Whats crazy is, I was reading 120 volts between hot and neutral on the 30 amp plug.
Well, yes, but you didn't tell us the other two measurements:
Hot--Neutral = 120vac
Hot--Ground = ??
Neutral--Ground = ??

Cavie, check me out on this part...
The ground wire is bare. If your electrician is sloppy, the bare ground wire could come loose from the new office outlet and wind up touching the brass (hot) terminal as the outlet is stuffed back into the box.

Now you have a ground wire at 120vac, same as the hot. That is to say, the ground wire is at 120 vac relative to the damp earth you were standing on when you touched the camper. (Should be 0v relative to the black hot wire, but might be 240, depending on whether the office outlet is on the same phase or different from the RV outlet.)

So my first step is to open the panel and every switch and outlet box on the affected circuits and check to see how the wires are "dressed."

Larry
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Old 05-31-2018, 06:46 AM   #15
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Call a licensed electrical contractor, not a handy man.
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
Well, yes, but you didn't tell us the other two measurements:
Hot--Neutral = 120vac
Hot--Ground = ??
Neutral--Ground = ??

Cavie, check me out on this part...
The ground wire is bare. If your electrician is sloppy, the bare ground wire could come loose from the new office outlet and wind up touching the brass (hot) terminal as the outlet is stuffed back into the box.

Now you have a ground wire at 120vac, same as the hot. That is to say, the ground wire is at 120 vac relative to the damp earth you were standing on when you touched the camper. (Should be 0v relative to the black hot wire, but might be 240, depending on whether the office outlet is on the same phase or different from the RV outlet.)

So my first step is to open the panel and every switch and outlet box on the affected circuits and check to see how the wires are "dressed."

Larry
Yes that can and does happen. 99.5% of the time the breaker will trip when that happens. You can very well have a hot skin condition in an RV but that requires something to have happened to the ground connection in the trailer, or between the trailer and the pedestal, or the pedestal its self so there is no place for it to go. It does happen. Years ago Dryers and ranges used the ground wire as a return for the neutral. 3 wire system. They finally realized that things would happen that let return neutral voltage was getting on the bare neutral/ground. 3 wire system with 220. Now they make you install a 4 wire system and the ground is nothing but a safe return to the panel to trip the breaker and avoid having live voltage on the bare ground. Hence the 4 wire 50 amp service. Bare wires aren't supposed to have voltage but **** happens hope this helps
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