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Old 05-23-2016, 12:07 PM   #1
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Steep driveway, tired of toting heavy boards.

Sure many may have this issue: rear of the camper scraping the driveway when parking at home.

Our driveway is not what would be considered steep, but the combination of the slope of the driveway, and the crown of the street, the rear of our 5er/toyhauler scrapes the driveway. Our solution has been to stack a combination of boards in various lengths to bridge the low point at the street valley gutter/ curb line. This works, but requires 2 separate stacks of boards to elevate the rear axles/tires 8" with the top boards being 10 feet long. Have considered adding wheels on the rear, but with a 14,000 unit, the wheels would not stand a chance and the frame would be damaged.

Looking for a better solution.
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:30 PM   #2
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I would look at something like this...

https://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels...48-979021.html
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:42 PM   #3
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Just a little more info on the 5er. The spare tire is mounted just north of the rear bumper and extends below the frame by 6+/- ". The existing drag bars are the triangular birds beak and just a few more drags from failure. Looks like a possible solution is to relocate the spare with Hide a Spare for enclosed underbelly, grind off the birds beaks and replace with some quality rollers like mentioned above.
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:50 PM   #4
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... grind off the birds beaks and replace with some quality rollers like mentioned above.
Just cut them off enough to have a plate welded on to be able to add the rollers and get the same height as the original V (birds beaks)
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Old 05-23-2016, 03:15 PM   #5
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Sure many may have this issue: rear of the camper scraping the driveway when parking at home.

Our driveway is not what would be considered steep, but the combination of the slope of the driveway, and the crown of the street, the rear of our 5er/toyhauler scrapes the driveway. Our solution has been to stack a combination of boards in various lengths to bridge the low point at the street valley gutter/ curb line. This works, but requires 2 separate stacks of boards to elevate the rear axles/tires 8" with the top boards being 10 feet long. Have considered adding wheels on the rear, but with a 14,000 unit, the wheels would not stand a chance and the frame would be damaged.

Looking for a better solution.
Have you considered an attachment that lowers the hitch receiver on your TV? That will raise the rear end of your trailer. (Of course you will have to remove it for towing.) It may make the difference.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/...Name=sp_detail


I have the same problem with my driveway. I use the hitch adapter to raise my cargo carrier to keep it from scraping.
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:35 PM   #6
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My grandfather bolted some heavy casters to the bottom of his camper rear bumper back in the 80's. From what I remember, It always seemed to work to keep the camper from scraping as he was pulling out of his driveway.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:53 PM   #7
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You could consider flipping your axles thus raising the entire trailer a few inches.
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:31 PM   #8
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Looking at the problem from a different angle. Would it be possible to change the landscape in the area of concern?
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Old 06-01-2016, 12:05 PM   #9
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Either flip the axles or if Torsion axles use a riser kit.
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Old 06-01-2016, 12:26 PM   #10
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Either flip the axles or if Torsion axles use a riser kit.
That's what I wound up doing on my Flagstaff 27BESS - 4" lift. Unfortunately, while it was having that work done, my DW was looking at motor homes. Got the Flagstaff home and about 2 weeks later took it back to the dealer for the trade-in.
Never did get to take the raised Flagstaff camping. Almost feel like it was money thrown in the drain.
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