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Old 10-31-2015, 07:53 AM   #61
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My opinion is trying to figure speed and weight tables for taking curves seems a little over the top. There are too many variables in trying to figure out rv tire issues. I had a blow out 2 weeks ago. I have no idea what caused it but it did $3711.86 worth of damage to the rig. I feel as though I've done everything on my end to maintain the tires properly.
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:00 AM   #62
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Other than in some forums such as this I do not see more complaints than would seem reasonable. Not if you take into account they shipped 34,000 towables in the first four months of 2015 alone.

People are compelled to buy new tires to replace tires on new trailers because they read this stuff on forums. I would bet the people buying these new tires are a miniscule percentage of new trailer buyers.

The Chinese tire thing has been going on as long as I can remember in RV forums I have participated in. As far as complaints there are only 5 official complaints of the brand being used currently by FR, Heartland, Dutchmen among others shown at NHTSA. 5 complaints out of how many trailers? Hundreds of thousands, with most having at least 4 tires? That's a lotsa tires.

Among a group of friends we camp with at a State Park, the topic of the China tires has popped up around the campfire many times over the years. Out of around 10 of us, all with Chinese ST tires or so we thought, from a couple of different brands, none of us have had so much as a flat tire or any tire problem in the last 6 years and the man that did had Marathons, go figure. Those were made in the good ole USA Marathons to boot we found out. That's not scientific analysis by about 10000 miles and I knock on wood after saying it.

These threads are like snowballs rolling down hills, or maybe tires rolling down hills.
Bought our RV 12/30/13 and put about 2000 miles on the OEM Trailmaster LR"C" before changing them. Went to the storage lot to check on the RV and noticed a low tire, ck the pressure and it was down to 32#. Took the wheel off, took it to discount tire for repair. When they aired it up and tested it the bead right along the rim was leaking. They broke it loose from the rim and the bead of the tire crumbled in places. Needless to say from that point on the RV has 5 new Maxxis 8008 10 ply. I run them at 75#, had steel valve stems installed and balanced. 2500 miles since the Maxxis were installed, all is well and I feel better. GVW of our RV is 9300#, last cat scale weight was 8700# loaded and stand alone. If the axels will hold up a couple more years I may upgrade them, 4k# axels on a trailer that heavy not good. I know the pin weight will take weight off the axels but where is the safety margin.
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:16 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by Springerdad View Post
Another thought, just to add to the mess here. Suppose I have ST205/R14 LR C's on my trailer now, mounted on aluminum wheels. If I go to a LR D, which will carry a higher pressure, will I be exceeding the rated pressure for those wheels? What if I have steel wheels? I haven't seen that mentioned here yet.
I've thought about that too. I went from LR C to LR D on my 14" rims (steel). I noticed that my steel rims were stamped for 60 PSI max. I honestly don't think the rims are going to blow to pieces if that is exceeded. But the rim probably DOES have a weight limit.

Anyway, I decided to run my LR D's at 56 PSI, and they warm up to about 60 PSI. At that inflation, I have far more excess load capacity than I had before I switched tires. That may be an extra cautious approach, but it works for me.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:02 PM   #64
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My opinion is trying to figure speed and weight tables for taking curves seems a little over the top. There are too many variables in trying to figure out rv tire issues. I had a blow out 2 weeks ago. I have no idea what caused it but it did $3711.86 worth of damage to the rig. I feel as though I've done everything on my end to maintain the tires properly.
Sounds similar to my experience.
My tire failure is largely unexplained, except that I was taking turns on a steep mountain highway (Monarch Pass).
It boggles my mind that people like you keep piping up with 'it happened to me too', yet the industry doesn't seem to see the problem.

This is exactly why there needs to be a margin between static load and tire load rating.
I'm not arguing that anyone should have to go through the same math as I have done.
I'm saying that if there is no margin between static tire load rating and GVWR, then just about any additional force on a loaded trailer will overload a tire. The tire load rating needs to take into account (within reason) those likely additional forces.

Another example that was mentioned to me yesterday is crosswind. You could drive all day with a constant crosswind and be overloading your downwind tires the whole time. On I-70 in Colorado and Kansas, the crosswind in spring can be bad enough to blow a vehicle off the highway, so the forces can be large. The reason I'm focused on taking curves is because I can calculate the forces on my tires. I don't know how to calculate wind forces.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:18 PM   #65
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Another example that was mentioned to me yesterday is crosswind. You could drive all day with a constant crosswind and be overloading your downwind tires the whole time. On I-70 in Colorado and Kansas, the crosswind in spring can be bad enough to blow a vehicle off the highway, so the forces can be large. The reason I'm focused on taking curves is because I can calculate the forces on my tires. I don't know how to calculate wind forces.
I'll bet someone with sailboat engineering experience could help with that.... Your thoughts speak to center of gravity and heeling moment.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:18 PM   #66
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That's great that you can figure that out and apply it when needed and that it works for you. My blow out happened on some what flat and straight highway. Maybe the tires are purposefully manufactured so that these type of things happen ( job security). I'm sure that tire manufacturers are held to specific guidelines and they are within limits of whatever those are. Would I like for there not to be any tire issues other than normal wear. Sure, I would love that. I try to follow every possible idea that I know of to prevent any failure. I just never heard of what you are talking about as I'm sure that most on this forum probably haven't either. No disrespect to you and I appreciate your input but honestly for me it is over the top and you'd have to dumb it down for me.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:24 PM   #67
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That's great that you can figure that out and apply it when needed and that it works for you. My blow out happened on some what flat and straight highway. Maybe the tires are purposefully manufactured so that these type of things happen ( job security). I'm sure that tire manufacturers are held to specific guidelines and they are within limits of whatever those are. Would I like for there not to be any tire issues other than normal wear. Sure, I would love that. I try to follow every possible idea that I know of to prevent any failure. I just never heard of what you are talking about as I'm sure that most on this forum probably haven't either. No disrespect to you and I appreciate your input but honestly for me it is over the top and you'd have to dumb it down for me.
I'd like to think tires are not purposely made to not do their job. I sold LOTS of them in my day and rarely saw problems until they were run close to or over their limit. I truly think this is a matter of us putting 15 pounds of stuff on a 10 pound tire, if you get my drift. I can recall a time when the Wanderlodges were coming out of the factory overweight on the front end before anything was ever put in them. The fix was to go to a larger tire with more weight carrying capacity. I think we are dealing with the same thing here,,,,,,,, over and over again.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:35 PM   #68
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That's great that you can figure that out and apply it when needed and that it works for you. My blow out happened on some what flat and straight highway. Maybe the tires are purposefully manufactured so that these type of things happen ( job security). I'm sure that tire manufacturers are held to specific guidelines and they are within limits of whatever those are. Would I like for there not to be any tire issues other than normal wear. Sure, I would love that. I try to follow every possible idea that I know of to prevent any failure. I just never heard of what you are talking about as I'm sure that most on this forum probably haven't either. No disrespect to you and I appreciate your input but honestly for me it is over the top and you'd have to dumb it down for me.
Not dumbing down.
I'm an engineer, so I'm accustomed to the math and physics. I do it all the time. Most people have expertise in other things.

What I'm saying is that the tires on my trailer are pushed to the limit when the trailer is loaded and sitting still on my driveway.

The other thing I'm saying is that whenever I take a curve, the trailer has a tendency to try to lean to the outside of the curve. This adds weight to the outside tires above and beyond what's there in my driveway.

If the tires are fully loaded in the driveway, then they'll be overloaded when the trailer leans on a curve.

The question is by how much, and that's where the math becomes important. The overload appears to be quite large to me.


The test for this is if you add up the total load capacities of your tires and compare to the weight on them as measured on a scale (trailer fully loaded and tow vehicle connected and off the scale), are the tires near their load capacities? If so, then I'd worry about overloading the tires when traveling and I'd consider upgrading tires if that's possible.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:35 PM   #69
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I'd like to think tires are not purposely made to not do their job. I sold LOTS of them in my day and rarely saw problems until they were run close to or over their limit. I truly think this is a matter of us putting 15 pounds of stuff on a 10 pound tire, if you get my drift. I can recall a time when the Wanderlodges were coming out of the factory overweight on the front end before anything was ever put in them. The fix was to go to a larger tire with more weight carrying capacity. I think we are dealing with the same thing here,,,,,,,, over and over again.
I do think their is an acceptable tolerance allowed when it comes to issues (reported issues) when we are talking about manufacturing of tires, but I also believe you are correct in over weight and or near over weight. There isn't much room for additional stuff when it comes to maximum allowed. When you mention going to a larger tire remember you must also maintain the psi that the rim will allow in addition to maximum weight allowed for the rim. My rims have a 3200 lb limit and my tires are like 3640. Still seems to be an issue
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:38 PM   #70
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I'd like to think tires are not purposely made to not do their job. I sold LOTS of them in my day and rarely saw problems until they were run close to or over their limit. I truly think this is a matter of us putting 15 pounds of stuff on a 10 pound tire, if you get my drift. I can recall a time when the Wanderlodges were coming out of the factory overweight on the front end before anything was ever put in them. The fix was to go to a larger tire with more weight carrying capacity. I think we are dealing with the same thing here,,,,,,,, over and over again.
I agree with this.
There may be some bad tires that come out of China, or have come out of China in the past.
But what I see here is not a problem with the tire quality, it's a problem with choice of tire.
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