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Old 10-15-2012, 01:50 PM   #11
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For me, not being a motor head nor knowing the details behind things - I have to go by the black and white of the "books". My decision for a 3500 DRW truck was based on the published specs of what my approximate pin weight was going to be, the payload available on the truck and the gross-combined weight if I were loaded full-tilt between the truck and the camper.

Heck, I wanted a Ram 3500 DRW Megacab - even w/ it's short bed. But the numbers just wouldn't add up for me. Here is a posts about my learning and decision making: post about the MegaCab + payload capacities

If you know more about trucks than I do (likely) and can make an educated decision about overloading one or more parameters of your truck, I can't argue with you or make claims otherwise. I can only tell you - for me, it was strictly by the numbers of what I expected my fifth wheel to weigh, what the truck weighed and what we thought we would be adding to it.

2013 Sabre 36QBOK pulled by a 2012 Ram 3500 DRW
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:58 PM   #12
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doctor20, like these guys did, do your research and you'll get the best results. Starting here was a smart idea.

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Old 10-15-2012, 03:29 PM   #13
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Location: Clayton, NC
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I tow our Columbus 320RS with a RAM 2500 6.7 Cummins Turbo Diesel.
I don't overload the fiver and it tows fine. I'm within my numbers and I have plenty of power to tow. I feel very safe towing it and have driven through the mountains with no problem.
That being said, if I had to do it over again, I would purchase a 3500 RAM dually with the 4.10 rear end. This would allow me to go bigger down the road, if I wanted to.
My 2500 was a deciding factor when buying the 320RS. I can't go any bigger, but we're happy and the truck performs flawlessly.
I had Firestone airbags installed from my previous fiver. It keeps the truck level so I can see better at night. It also helps stablize the towing, that and the Roto-Flex hitch pin.
Good luck with your new 320RS
2013 Palomino Columbus 320RS
2007 Dodge RAM 2500 6.7 Cummins
Reese 15K manual slider
M.I.L. in Florida for good!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:44 PM   #14
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A properly equipped (please note the "properly equipped) 250/2500 will work if the GVWR is 14,000. However, I would recommend at least a 350/3500, and as mentioned, a dually would be the best for stability. The F-450 by Ford actually has a tighter turning radius than the 250/350, but it does have a wide rear end! If I were pulling a lot, I would probably opt for the F-450 (me being a Ford guy), but in my current tow mode (I'm a weekender...weekends here and there with an occasional long trip), for that trailer, I would probably opt for a 350/3500.

By the way, you actually did it the right way by getting the trailer first. Now you can get the right truck for the job.
Ed and Sharon
2010 Wildcat 28RKBS
2011 Ford F-250 XLT, 6.7L PSD
Ride-Rite Airbags and Airlift wireless remote compressor...nice!

I thought I was wrong once, but I was wrong!
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:48 PM   #15
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Location: MN
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I second what Ragin Cajun just said. 3/4 ton will do it but is going to be pushing its capability. Empty the 320RS is about 11K and full figure 14K. I would pick a 1 ton non dually long bed if I was getting a new truck.

Here is my EMPTY 320RS behind a 2006 F350 dually crew cab long box. When you see how big the combination is parked next to a semi, ask yourself if you really want to drag her around with a 3/4 ton truck or should you pony up for the 1 ton.


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