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Old 09-07-2011, 11:40 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by sherdep View Post
I know your truck is rated for more horsepower then mine is (Mine is rated at 345hp) so that may be the diffrence of why you have the 3.55 with the 20's - for better fuel economy at highway speeds plus you have MDS which cuts off 4 cylinders or two banks if I remember correctly.

I say drive it with 20's and see how it performs - I know Labzy is running the same setup as you are except she has a Mini Lite 2306 - you might be able to get some info from her on driveability issues if she has any - she does her homework so she will tell what she has dealt with.
We did the same as a lot of people, didn't look around that much. Really liked the Shasta revere and wanted the slide. Ended up with a heavier tt thay I wanted to pull. It will be ok, within my truck's limits but lighter would have made me feel more at ease. I did not realize the tongue weight was so high 750 dry) so a bit challenging with wd but that's a different thread.

Thank ya all friends, bed time for me. I'm sure I'll be counting trailers to fall asleep
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:43 PM   #32
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Oh and reason i got a non lite tt is my brother in law sold tt for a few years with his familly business and suggested I stayed with conventional tt stick and tin
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:47 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boubou View Post
Oh and reason i got a non lite tt is my brother in law sold tt for a few years with his familly business and suggested I stayed with conventional tt stick and tin
no need to explain - it is all good

I doubt its really gonna make that much of a diffrence since it is a 21 footer - if it was a 25 to 30 footer it would

your trailer weighs 7,500 pounds - tongue weight is usually 10% since you said 750lbs

oh and good night
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:57 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherdep View Post
I know your truck is rated for more horsepower then mine is (Mine is rated at 345hp) so that may be the diffrence of why you have the 3.55 with the 20's - for better fuel economy at highway speeds plus you have MDS which cuts off 4 cylinders or two banks if I remember correctly.

I say drive it with 20's and see how it performs - I know Labzy is running the same setup as you are except she has a Mini Lite 2306 - you might be able to get some info from her on driveability issues if she has any - she does her homework so she will tell what she has dealt with.
Still have the same poorly geared tranny though and with 3:73's and the 32 inch factory size tires is not ideal so I cannot imagine having 33's with 3:55's being a great combo. Seems like it could be a recipe for tranny overheating down the road with a heavy load.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:51 AM   #35
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If you stay off gravel roads while towing your trailer your wranglers should be alright,we have the same tires and have had no issues but a friend drove a stone through one of his while towing on a gravel road because of the extra weight on quite a soft tire.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:44 PM   #36
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I have a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 QC with 3.93 gears. I upgraded my tires to the Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac LT 275/65 r 20. They fit......barely in the wheel well. As someone else has mentioned, you are limited in LT tire selection in 20". I used my Superchips Flashpaq to reprogram the computer since these tires are taller than the stock size.
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Old 09-09-2011, 11:50 AM   #37
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I have a question that relates here.

My Ram tires are the same as boubou's, rated 114, (2600lbs per tire at max pressure of 44psi).
Inside the door is the recommended psi for the tires which is 35psi.
I know you are supposed to add a bit for towing, so I was wondering how much extra psi do you guys/gals put in?

Also, how much does this effect the load rating (lbs per tire)?

Thanks in advance for your help

Kim
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labzy View Post
I have a question that relates here.

My Ram tires are the same as boubou's, rated 114, (2600lbs per tire at max pressure of 44psi).
Inside the door is the recommended psi for the tires which is 35psi.
I know you are supposed to add a bit for towing, so I was wondering how much extra psi do you guys/gals put in?
Kim
35psi is the cold max so its advised that you inflate to 35psi; but no more. The tire is built to go beyond that as its heats up so you don't need to inflate more than it's max.

Also, that's the door sticker, which is the correct PSI assuming those tires are OEM. Follow the max psi on the tire when and if you change from the OEM tire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Labzy View Post
Also, how much does this effect the load rating (lbs per tire)?

Thanks in advance for your help

Kim
The load rating is based on your max psi. You cannot increase the load rating by inflating beyond this max. However, you can decrease the load rating if you underinflate.

Replacing your tires is the only way to change the load rating.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:20 PM   #39
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Thanks Scott

But I have yet another question now.......
How much do I lose from the load rating at 35psi?
Do you guys not add a few more pounds when you tow? (like up to 38psi?)
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:48 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labzy View Post
Thanks Scott

But I have yet another question now.......
How much do I lose from the load rating at 35psi?
Do you guys not add a few more pounds when you tow? (like up to 38psi?)
You do not want to inflate over the max psi stated on the tire or you will get premature wear down the center of the tread pattern. I found this out the hard way on my tires before I upgraded to LT tires. I killed a set of BFG 275/60/R20 in 20k miles by running 40psi when towing.
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