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Old 06-02-2014, 08:38 PM   #1
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TT a Rocking.

Maybe you old timers can give me a hand.

The TT came with those spreading car style stabilizers and they are good for ?? Maybe I'm not setting it up right ?
I chock the wheels then I level the TT side to side and front to back, then I lower the stabilizers until they are snug all the way around, then I go around one last time to make sure all is good. I put in my X-chocks tighten them up, then I put a jack (one under each side) under the suspension, between the wheels, (solid point straight to frame) to stop up and down motion.

Well when anyone walks around (even gently at night) we feel like we are in a ship at sea, lol... The only thing left I can think of is to build a diagonal brace system to keep side to side motion down.

If anyone has experienced this problem and has solved it let me know. I know there is going to be motion in a TT, and a little movement doesn't bother me, (we owned a pop up years ago). But this movement is.

We place the TT on gravel sites when we hook up and our TT is a cherokee 274 dbh.

Thanks for any and all suggestions.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:03 PM   #2
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Yeah... We hammer in the chocks, tighten up the jacks and added 2 extra jacks amidships near the axles. Being a 5th wheel there are the two big weight supporting jacks up front. That gets us fairly stable. Until someone goes in or out the door.

Stabil-Step Jack - 8" - 14" - Stromberg Carlson JSS-7 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

These gadgets work. But you could do the same thing with a stack of wood blocks. The leverage exerted against the trailer by the steps makes the rig really rock when someone is bounding up the stairs. Dang near flipped me out of the bed while trying to nap.

Doesn't cure all the wobbly, but it really helps as far as the steps are concerned.

BTW, do you have torsion or spring axles?
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:44 AM   #3
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I have the spring axels, I put the jack right between the springs under the bracket that holds the springs, it's a solid point to the frame. I hear you about the stair thing, DW was sitting on the couch and my DS being a teen ran up the steps and just about launched my DW to the ceiling....ha.. A small scissor jack took care of that problem.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:00 PM   #4
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JT Strongarm type braces either store bought or homemade work wonders. I always install the Bal X Chocks before I unhook. Put the landing jacks down, the reinforced rear stab jacks down and then the reinforced elec stab jacks down in front of the axles. Pretty solid with no movement. Also have a homemade step support.

The factory stab jacks are very weak in the horizontal or near horizontal position. I reinforced the legs and still try to get them as close to vertical as possible. I have oversize pads bolted to the factory pads and never stack anything under them unless they just won't reach the ground.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:13 PM   #5
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Don't over tighten your 4 scissor jacks, just snug so that weight is still on the wheels. I have never had a problem with 3 different TT (22 ft., 25 ft. & 30 ft.). I would not put a jack between the wheels either. A scissor jack under the steps is a really good idea for those who don't learn to step lightly, might save your steps too.

I level my TT side to side with 1-3 boards slightly wider than the wheels. The shortest board is just longer that both wheels. I stair step the boards so the wheels only rise the thickness of 1 board at a time. Front to rear leveling is just the TT jack. Stabilizers are last.

I think you might be taking to much weight off of the wheels, anyhow, it is worth a try.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:57 PM   #6
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Also with any factory crank down stabilizer jacks: The shorter, the better. A bunch of wood blocks or lego levelers under the stab jacks reduces the "length of the lever" and makes any jack more stable.
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Old 06-12-2014, 08:20 PM   #7
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Old 06-12-2014, 08:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio View Post
Also with any factory crank down stabilizer jacks: The shorter, the better. A bunch of wood blocks or lego levelers under the stab jacks reduces the "length of the lever" and makes any jack more stable.
I'm not sure with the crank downs, but this is true about my electric stabs. With those, since they pivot from the middle of the rig, the more they go down, the more the TT can pivot on them. I now usually stack up 4 of the legos on top of a 2x8 so the stabs only drop a couple of inches. Even that still doesn't take all the sway out. But it is better than it was.

In the beginning it was so bad my DW wanted to have the dealer pull them off and replace with scissor jacks like her BIL's trailer. One day I may still do that.

My other option is some form of JT strongarms, but for electric stabs, to try to get the pads to support the edges of the TT instead of the middle of the TT. But I just haven't looked into what that will take yet.
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:05 PM   #9
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Kaadk, I have found that the closer to horizontal they are, they are putting the legs in the most susceptible position for bending. They are at their weakest in the horizontal position due to the strut pivot point. I reinforced my stab legs and try to get them as close to 45d or as vertical as possible with only one Linx block bolted to the pad. JT Strongarm type stabilizers either store bought or homemade are the best for stabilizing the unit. Stab jacks in front of the axles does a tremendous help also as it takes the bounce out of the tires & suspension.
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:11 PM   #10
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The trailer's at the dealer's right now taking care of my game of tag with the tree, but when I get it back I'll try again. I know when I ran them down to just a single board I was bouncing all over and they might as well have not even been down. Maybe I need to just find a happy medium so I'll have to test out each height and see which one is the most stable.
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