"un"stable stabalizerers

[eandsphotography]

I know this has been brought up before but after spending the last 9 days in my trailer, a Flagstaff 831krss, the rocking is just ridiculous. Perhaps i'm wrong but the conclusion ive come to is that the legs on the rockwood and flagstaff only have a single arm that comes down. The Puma I had was a design that looked more like a scissors jack and I had absolutly no movement in the trailer. Is this just a really bad design so you have to buy the stablizer attachments which dont seem to be too cheap to add on ? but i'm considering it because it just doesnt feel like it's stabilized at all with two people walking around in it.

Any suggestion?

[aintgotnun]

Here's what I did to mine. Thread

plugitright They make 'em for all RVs, priced right, and work.

[spepi]

I added BAL scissor jacks to the front of my wheels....what a difference...just spent 6 days in Hershey PA, in the most un even site, and it was no shaking at all

[rockwood06]

The installation of the jacks and the type of jacks terrible. I had explained in early threads as too what I had found and how Forest River made changes on the 09's and made them worse in my opinion. Suggestion, the next time you set up for camping, have one or two people walk around the camper and and watch how the jacks and there supports move, you might see what I see keep an eye on the angle Iron that they are attached to.

[Radio]

I think the issue is leverage.

As you know, you can use a lever to move a heavy load. The longer the lever, the better it works. More leverage. Therefore, try putting a bunch of blocks under your jacks, stabilizers, etc, so they are not as "long"...less leverage.

I've seen folks parked on flat level concrete pads with 8" of wood under each jack and I bet that's the reason they do it.

[rockwood06]

Originally Posted by Radio

I think the issue is leverage.

As you know, you can use a lever to move a heavy load. The longer the lever, the better it works. More leverage. Therefore, try putting a bunch of blocks under your jacks, stabilizers, etc, so they are not as "long"...less leverage.

I've seen folks parked on flat level concrete pads with 8" of wood under each jack and I bet that's the reason they do it.

I tried that and what I have found is that the angle Iron that supports the jacks bends as the camper moves. There is no brassing on the Iron between the two jacks, that's in the front and back of the camper.

[eandsphotography]

What about using the supports that fit between the tires that extend out in opposite directions so the tire cant move. Has anyone used these and would they help the problem out any? When I was raising the jacks back up, my wife was still in the trailer moving around and I noticed the tires actually wiggling back and forth.

[aintgotnun]

Originally Posted by eandsphotography

What about using the supports that fit between the tires that extend out in opposite directions so the tire cant move. Has anyone used these and would they help the problem out any? When I was raising the jacks back up, my wife was still in the trailer moving around and I noticed the tires actually wiggling back and forth.

I think that's what spepi was refering to in his post above. Yes they do help, quite a bit actually but do not completly eliminate it. I also use a set of those on my rig.

[spepi]

I use the BAL jacks in the front of the tires, and the deluxe wheel chocks between the tires, where you crank them open with a wrench, and they put pressure against each tire, therfor no roll...I'll post a pic if I have one available

[rockwood06]

Originally Posted by eandsphotography

What about using the supports that fit between the tires that extend out in opposite directions so the tire cant move. Has anyone used these and would they help the problem out any? When I was raising the jacks back up, my wife was still in the trailer moving around and I noticed the tires actually wiggling back and forth.

The tire supports work great, they keep the camper from moving back and forth, but do not stop the left to right movment, that's all in the jacks. The other thing I noticed if you extend the front jacks too far you will lift the front of the camper up off of the ground and then your hitch jack will be suspended, this is not good because the stablizer jacks are not design to hold the weight of the camper. I wished I had posted pic of my Issues with the way they are design. I never had an Issue with the scissor jacks that were on my first camper, they are attached directly to the frame and did not need any other material for insulation or operation.

[wildwood]

i use the screw tire stops and have the four corner stabilizers and still have the bounce in the tt, it is 34 ft long. I also use multiple wooden blocks under each corner stabilizer.

i plan to buy a pair of stabilizers like i have on my corners from camping world, est cost 80.00 and install near the middle of my trailer on the I beam, in front of wheels. I talked with another trailer owner that had recently tried this with good success.

the best is the cross braced system, a bit pricey for the installed system from some of the ones i have seen, but depending on the number of times you go camping and the number of people in camper, may be worth it.

[08flagvlite]

BAL also makes some add on bars that attach to your frame with drilling and screws, and the other end to the bottom of your existing un-stabilizers. They cost 50 bucks a set, and you'll need 2 sets, but they work. I tried the wheel things that go between and jack outward to lock the wheels, but they wouldn't fit mine! Too close together! I will try to find more later, but for now, I'm getting the stabilizer bars. Randy

[hunt4240dw]

The Ultra Deluxe Chock and Lock RV Stabilizer will work on the Vlite because the closed distance is 1 and 1/2 ins. I use them on both sides to stop the front to back. I have bought and going to try this weekend stabilizers for the slide out rails to stop the side to side when some moves on the slide outs.