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Old 08-20-2014, 10:39 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by purduepete97 View Post
I'm glad you all are thinking of the same options we did. We had that quoted out too. It would involve removing one of the overhead doors and replacing with a slider to gain clearance (current overhead doors are 10' tall with more like 9'8" clearance). That would get us up to 11'1" clearance - not much wiggle room for our current 10'10" TT, plus kind of messes up the aesthetic of the building. To get the length, we could do a relatively easy 5' bump out in the rear. All told, this was $5,500, barely met needs for this TT, and wouldn't accommodate the next unit once 2 foot-itis kicks in again. So, again, that left us looking for other options. Basically for the same $$, we get to add net new storage space that is much more future-proof.

Same cost? Then yeah, go for it.

Though, for the record I would have the bump out on the door side to keep all the remodelling on the same side to lower costs, but that would still probably be around the 5k you were quoted.

Be sure to let us know how the construction goes.




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Old 08-20-2014, 11:16 PM   #12
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36 ft long and 14 ft clearance, wIll fit most any MH OR TT OR 5ER. ; Set originally on a gravel base with the proper concrete anchors. Just a lot of work and i do not like heights and my wife hates them even more, Just 2 people putting this together and putting it up was a very difficult job. But a great result,
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:29 AM   #13
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Hello
36 ft long and 14 ft clearance, wIll fit most any MH OR TT OR 5ER. ; Set originally on a gravel base with the proper concrete anchors. Just a lot of work and i do not like heights and my wife hates them even more, Just 2 people putting this together and putting it up was a very difficult job. But a great result,
Thanks. To clarify on the 14 ft clearance - I assume you installed a solid end on the back of the structure and a garage door on the front? If that assumption is correct, to get the 14 ft clearance, what is the height of your exterior walls at the "eave" to get you to 14 ft clearance? You don't by chance have any pictures of the structure??

Really appreciate the help.

Brian
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:23 AM   #14
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I too am considering such a structure.

I cannot offer any advice as I am at the same stage as you. Trying figure out options.

I have a HW pop up and it is too tall to get into the garage. I would need to raise a cross beam and install a new door to get it in. I too am looking for a steel structure to house the pop up for the 8 months it is not being used each year.

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Old 08-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #15
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I too am considering such a structure.

I cannot offer any advice as I am at the same stage as you. Trying figure out options.

I have a HW pop up and it is too tall to get into the garage. I would need to raise a cross beam and install a new door to get it in. I too am looking for a steel structure to house the pop up for the 8 months it is not being used each year.

Vin.
Forgive me for hijacking for a second, but you say your popup is too tall for the garage? What's the height of the pop up? Considering I can see the roof on most when closed, and I'm 6', I would think it should fit in a standard garage.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:24 PM   #16
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Forgive me for hijacking for a second, but you say your popup is too tall for the garage? What's the height of the pop up? Considering I can see the roof on most when closed, and I'm 6', I would think it should fit in a standard garage.
The pop up is 72" high. The A/C unit on top would add about 10-12" I think. It is too tall to enter a standard residential garage door. Sure wish I could get it in there. I designed the Garage to be extra deep - 33' in case I ever wanted a small convertible toy. Would fit the 22' pop up trailer nice if the door was not too low.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:19 AM   #17
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The pop up is 72" high. The A/C unit on top would add about 10-12" I think. It is too tall to enter a standard residential garage door. Sure wish I could get it in there. I designed the Garage to be extra deep - 33' in case I ever wanted a small convertible toy. Would fit the 22' pop up trailer nice if the door was not too low.
Ah, ok. Most ones I saw at dealers would have only been about 5' high, maybe 5 1/2'. And if they had an AC, it's a low profile unit.

Well, you say yours in 72", and the AC is 10-12"? Considering a standard garage door is 7' then you've got to be close. Like let the air of out of the tires kind of close.

If it'll clear the opening, just not the part of the door that's still hanging down, you might be able to release the door from the opener and then slide it up a couple of extra inches to get the clearance you need. Just a thought.

We now end this test of the emergency hijack system and return you to your regularly scheduled thread.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:37 AM   #18
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If it'll clear the opening, just not the part of the door that's still hanging down, you might be able to release the door from the opener and then slide it up a couple of extra inches to get the clearance you need. Just a thought.
I had to do that when I had my Trailmanor. I would raise the door, remove the door opener arm (2 pins), then prop the door up to it's highest position.
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:07 AM   #19
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Update on RV storage structure:
I've kind of ruled out Versatube. Some theoretical advantages, but for about the same $$ I can get a very similar design from a company (All Steel Carports) whose headquarters is in Muncie, IN (about 60 minutes from my home), and they include installation in their pricing.

So, I am currently in the process of removing a couple of trees, leveling ground, and getting permits. Weather and government red tape permitting, I'll be ordering a 18'wx40'lx16'h (at the eave) RV enclosure in the next couple of weeks. Should be another 2 weeks or so for them to build and install it. Then our TT will have a warm, dry place to sleep!

This unit will have vertical roofing panels to improve snow shedding capabilities (vs horizontal where the ribs can sometimes keep snow from sliding off), extra bracing due to wall height, fully enclosed back and sides, walk through door on one side, and front framed for a future 14x14 overhead garage door. Price, installed with the options listed, is right at $7,000. A bit more than the Verastube estimate in the original post, but this has several upgrades that would have pushed us well past that price point and, again, it includes installation.

I'll run electric to it this winter from my existing pole barn (located about 10 feet away) for garage door opener, lights and possibly for 30 amp plug (will at least 20 amp for cooling frig) (can't do 50 amp right now - not enough juice going to the existing pole barn).

This unit will obviously handle current TT with room to spare, as well as at least our next couple of upgrades, which is the goal we were trying to accomplish. By the time I could afford anything that won't fit into this structure, I'll have plenty of $$ to build another storage facility (guessing that'll be 20+ years from now, about the time youngest gets out of college!).

Will try to get some pics up as I go through the process.

Purduepete
PS: Going camping this weekend, so no tree or ground prep work in my immediate future! Another trip planned in 2 weeks for Purdue homecoming, so I guess that weekend's out too! Hope this gets done before the snow flies!
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:15 AM   #20
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Versatube RV storage building

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I'll run electric to it this winter from my existing pole barn (located about 10 feet away) for garage door opener, lights and possibly for 30 amp plug (will at least 20 amp for cooling frig) (can't do 50 amp right now - not enough juice going to the existing pole barn)...

I'd at least run the wiring for 50a, even if you're only putting a 30a plug on it. That way if you ever do upgrade the service you don't have to lay a new cable.




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