Water heater bypass.

[Tony S]

The water heater in our new trailer seems to only have a shutoff on the hot and not the cold in. I want to bypass it for winterizing

[Bluepill]

Interesting. The "T" valve in the hot line clearly replaces 2 of the usual valves. Possibly the black valve on the cold inlet is designed to block flow into the heater when the manual valve is set to bypass.

[HangDiver]

Originally Posted by Bluepill

Interesting. The "T" valve in the hot line clearly replaces 2 of the usual valves. Possibly the black valve on the cold inlet is designed to block flow into the heater when the manual valve is set to bypass.

That's what I was thinking - a check valve that when the hot is bypassed above cuts off the flow into the tank.

[Tony S]

Maybe you guys are right. I thought maybe they plumbed it the wrong way.

[Tony S]

Might be the only thing I can do.

[rockfordroo]

They plumb these things a number of ways; I haven't figured out exactly WHY. Look at page 2 of the attached generic plumbing pic.

I think you have option #2b.

[Tony S]

2b does look like what I have. Not sure how that works but I hope it does. Thanks for the info.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Tony S

2b does look like what I have. Not sure how that works but I hope it does. Thanks for the info.

Quick explanation: Looking at your pic, you are currently set up for normal operations. The cold water valve (black) is currently open to allow cold water from the blue lines on the left to flow into the water heater on the right. The hot water outlet/bypass valve is set to "not bypass" (normal) allowing hot water to flow out of the water heater into the red lines, but not letting any water flow up the vertical blue line (the bypass line).

When it's time to winterize, close the cold water valve by turning the handle (black) so it's perpendicular to the blue piping. Then turn the hot water outlet/bypass valve (white) so the handle is in line with the blue pipe rather than the red pipe. That puts it in the bypass mode and will let water flow UP the blue line and to the left into the red line to the hot water faucets (but not right, into the red line to the water heater).

[Tony S]

I wasn't sure if it was made to turn, doesn't look like a normal valve.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Tony S

I wasn't sure if it was made to turn, doesn't look like a normal valve.

I blew up your pic as best I could and it LOOKS like it has a black handle in line with the blue piping (aimed towards the bypass line). You should be able to turn it one direction or the other until it's perpendicular to the piping. Some options use a check valve in the hot line; a check valve would not work on the cold water line.

If it's NOT a "regular valve" then maybe we've discovered one more "optional setup," but I'd be very surprised.

[Tony S]

Makes sense, I will try and turn the black and hope it does. I can't think of any other answer for it.

[rockfordroo]

If you can't turn it, take a closeup pic of the valve and see if anyone is familiar with it.

[Tony S]

Will do.

[Tony S]

Ok, the black thing is a valve and turning it shut the water off to the water heater.
Next problem......
I put on hose to the pump so I can pump the antifreeze and left it on there as we don't use the pump. We turned on the water last night when arriving at the park etc. This morning we had water on the floor by the bed, we lifted it and the jug I had under there to test the pump was full of water and overflowing. why would the water go back into the pump and out the intake, it didn't do this on the last trailer we had. Being park we never used the pump so I always left this connection on so it would be ready for winterizing. Now the pump in this new trailer for some reason doesn't work the same.

[rockfordroo]

If I'm reading your post correctly, your city water backflowed through your pump and out the antifreeze line?

If that's correct, it means the check valve on the pump discharge is not seating. This is a very common problem, although usually the water backflows into the fresh water tank and overfills the tank, i.e., water comes out the tank vent. (See the note in the yellow box at the bottom of page 1 of the drawing I gave you in Post #6.)

Usual fix is to shut off city water and run fresh water tank water through the pump for a minute or two, then shut off the pump and re-establish city water. This usually flushes out anything in the pumps check valve and allows it to re-seat. (You can run water through the AF line, too; doesn't matter where it comes from, just needs to flush out the check valve.)

If this doesn't work, you need to replace the check valve or install a separate one between the pumps discharge and the Tee where the city water comes in.

Another option, if you have separate valves for both the antifreeze and fresh water tank suction lines (as shown on the main drawing I gave you in Post #6) is to close them both; just re-open whichever one you need when you need it. If you have a 3-way valve instead of separate valves (as shown in the brown oval at the top of the page in the drawing I gave you in Post #6), this won't work, because you'll backflow water into either the AF line or the FW line; you most likely can't isolate both at the same time (I know I can't).

[john5646]

Looks like you have a three way valve. It will work if that’s what it is. You’ll need to look closer at it. If it is your fine that one valve will perform as needed.

[Tony S]

I tried using the pump as normal but so car still leaves through the intake side. It is filling up the fresh water holding tank. May try it again and see what happens.