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Old 09-24-2014, 09:15 PM   #1
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Weak brakes

I have the factory integrated brake controller on my Silverado. The brakes on my 5'r feel weak and I have the gain turned up to 10. If i squeeze the manual activation lever at a stop my truck at an idle in drive will roll forward. I can not hold my truck still with the trailer brakes. I adjusted them and they felt a bit stronger but then 2 trips later same thing. I rechecked the adjusters and they were not out of adjustment. I been reading about magnet strength checking amp draw etc. Would a quick way to determine if it the trailer be by disconnecting the trailer harness and pulling the breakaway and seeing if the camper can then hold my truck better? initially id like to determine if its the truck or trailer and go from there
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:22 PM   #2
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I would adjust the trailer brakes a little tighter. When I adjust mine, I tighten until they will not turn very easily and then back them off 4 clicks and they turn easily.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:32 PM   #3
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Thanks OC this is exactly what I have done twice now. initially they feel better but it does not last long. Now I realize the bigger heavier 5'r may not lock the wheels like my travel trailer would but I would think when at a stop and fully squeezing the brake controller I should be able to hold the truck from rolling forward.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:48 PM   #4
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Could possibly be a weak connection at the truck. Try disconnecting your wiring then pulling the breakaway switch and try to roll forward a little. That'll rule that out at least.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFM-jr View Post
Thanks OC this is exactly what I have done twice now. initially they feel better but it does not last long. Now I realize the bigger heavier 5'r may not lock the wheels like my travel trailer would but I would think when at a stop and fully squeezing the brake controller I should be able to hold the truck from rolling forward.
Do you not have 2 adjustable controls on your brake controller?
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFM-jr View Post
Thanks OC this is exactly what I have done twice now. initially they feel better but it does not last long. Now I realize the bigger heavier 5'r may not lock the wheels like my travel trailer would but I would think when at a stop and fully squeezing the brake controller I should be able to hold the truck from rolling forward.
I concur with your comment. Same here with the 5er vs the TT. New GY Marathons made a bigger difference with better tread on the road, actually backed off 2 digits on the brake controller.
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:52 PM   #7
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My Columbus has about 8000 miles on it and holding brake down prevents my F250 Diesel from moving forward at idle. It will never lock up, and when I am on incline trailer brakes alone will not stop movement. I plan to do my first adjustment this week. My gain been at 10 since I have had it new. My previous trailer same truck, my gain was 6. I read so much about grease contamination, if my adjustment does not help, I will have to get them inspected. Good luck on yours and keep us posted.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:00 AM   #8
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Lippert has been sending out letters to Columbus owners to have your brakes inspected by the dealer I got my letter Tuesday
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:38 PM   #9
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Did some more testing today. I disconnected my pigtail from the truck and pulled the break away pin with no change truck still pull roll away at idle. I then jacked up the truck reconnected pigtail and put a breaker bar with a 3/4 socket on a lug. I squeezed the manual lever and had a buddy apply pressure and he turned 3 out of 4 wheels with the bar. Lastly I took a set of jumper cables and clamped the pinbox to the hitch as an alternate ground source between them and no change. May need to pull some wheels off this thing.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:11 AM   #10
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Did some further testing and verified the7 pin on the trailer sees 11.8 volts on the electric brake pin when I pull the breakaway pin and drops to zero when reinserted. I plugged the harness into my bumper connector and used the bed receptacle to verify as I either step on the brake pedal or squeeze the manual lever the voltage increases progressively to11.8 volts. I had read my truck needs a load on it to properly test the factory brake controller. I hope I am right in thinking I have the advantage of a bridged point in having both bed and bumper allowing access into the working (loaded) circuit. Everything is pointing to an issue inside the wheels.
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