Weak brakes

JFM-jr · 09-24-2014, 08:15 PM

I have the factory integrated brake controller on my Silverado. The brakes on my 5'r feel weak and I have the gain turned up to 10. If i squeeze the manual activation lever at a stop my truck at an idle in drive will roll forward. I can not hold my truck still with the trailer brakes. I adjusted them and they felt a bit stronger but then 2 trips later same thing. I rechecked the adjusters and they were not out of adjustment. I been reading about magnet strength checking amp draw etc. Would a quick way to determine if it the trailer be by disconnecting the trailer harness and pulling the breakaway and seeing if the camper can then hold my truck better? initially id like to determine if its the truck or trailer and go from there

OldCoot · 09-24-2014, 08:22 PM

I would adjust the trailer brakes a little tighter. When I adjust mine, I tighten until they will not turn very easily and then back them off 4 clicks and they turn easily.

JFM-jr · 09-24-2014, 08:32 PM

Thanks OC this is exactly what I have done twice now. initially they feel better but it does not last long. Now I realize the bigger heavier 5'r may not lock the wheels like my travel trailer would but I would think when at a stop and fully squeezing the brake controller I should be able to hold the truck from rolling forward.

raspivey · 09-24-2014, 08:48 PM

Could possibly be a weak connection at the truck. Try disconnecting your wiring then pulling the breakaway switch and try to roll forward a little. That'll rule that out at least.

OldCoot · 09-24-2014, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFM-jr

Thanks OC this is exactly what I have done twice now. initially they feel better but it does not last long. Now I realize the bigger heavier 5'r may not lock the wheels like my travel trailer would but I would think when at a stop and fully squeezing the brake controller I should be able to hold the truck from rolling forward.

Do you not have 2 adjustable controls on your brake controller?

B and B · 09-24-2014, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFM-jr

Thanks OC this is exactly what I have done twice now. initially they feel better but it does not last long. Now I realize the bigger heavier 5'r may not lock the wheels like my travel trailer would but I would think when at a stop and fully squeezing the brake controller I should be able to hold the truck from rolling forward.

I concur with your comment. Same here with the 5er vs the TT. New GY Marathons made a bigger difference with better tread on the road, actually backed off 2 digits on the brake controller.

bobfa · 09-24-2014, 09:52 PM

My Columbus has about 8000 miles on it and holding brake down prevents my F250 Diesel from moving forward at idle. It will never lock up, and when I am on incline trailer brakes alone will not stop movement. I plan to do my first adjustment this week. My gain been at 10 since I have had it new. My previous trailer same truck, my gain was 6. I read so much about grease contamination, if my adjustment does not help, I will have to get them inspected. Good luck on yours and keep us posted.

iceblaze580 · 09-25-2014, 07:00 AM

Lippert has been sending out letters to Columbus owners to have your brakes inspected by the dealer I got my letter Tuesday

JFM-jr · 09-27-2014, 08:38 PM

Did some more testing today. I disconnected my pigtail from the truck and pulled the break away pin with no change truck still pull roll away at idle. I then jacked up the truck reconnected pigtail and put a breaker bar with a 3/4 socket on a lug. I squeezed the manual lever and had a buddy apply pressure and he turned 3 out of 4 wheels with the bar. Lastly I took a set of jumper cables and clamped the pinbox to the hitch as an alternate ground source between them and no change. May need to pull some wheels off this thing.

JFM-jr · 09-29-2014, 10:11 AM

Did some further testing and verified the7 pin on the trailer sees 11.8 volts on the electric brake pin when I pull the breakaway pin and drops to zero when reinserted. I plugged the harness into my bumper connector and used the bed receptacle to verify as I either step on the brake pedal or squeeze the manual lever the voltage increases progressively to11.8 volts. I had read my truck needs a load on it to properly test the factory brake controller. I hope I am right in thinking I have the advantage of a bridged point in having both bed and bumper allowing access into the working (loaded) circuit. Everything is pointing to an issue inside the wheels.

TURBS · 09-29-2014, 10:23 AM

Sometimes after adjusting brakes to what you think is good, you then need to apply brakes a few times and then re adjust.

You should feel a decent drag on wheel when adjusted properly.

Turbs

GOTTOYS · 09-29-2014, 10:30 AM

According to the Dexter manual, the brakes need to be burnished in . I had to make about 40-50 stops using just the manual part of the brake controller. I didn't think it would work but it made a huge difference! I found a lonely road and stopped from a speed of about 30-40 mph. Let the brakes cool a bit in between stops. The whole process took maybe an hour. It was well worth doing.

mud yapster · 09-29-2014, 10:50 AM

Lippert sent me a letter Saturday to inspect the brakes on my Columbus it said something about grease getting on the brake pads and rotors. Maybe yours has the same issue. My brakes are working fine on my rig but it is only 2 months old now. I'm going to inspect mine for any grease issues anyway. Just a thought for you to check.

JFM-jr · 09-29-2014, 12:11 PM

Thanks ill looked I pull the wheels. F1a100 I feel almost nothing as i said the brakes will not keep the truck still at an idle in gear it rolls forward.

tyke8319 · 09-30-2014, 05:09 PM

Some months back Trailer Life had a super article on converting from "shoe" type brakes to disc brakes. I pull a 34RLTS and it feels HEAVY behind my 2011, Ford, F-350. Very soon after reading the article I have the conversion made and the difference in stopping power is unbelievable. I don't feel I have to stands on the brakes to make stops and when the "panic stop" occurs it's like the trailer isn't even there. Though somewhat pricey I found the investment extremely worthwhile and will cer4tainly add to the resale value should I ever decide to sell.

JFM-jr · 10-04-2014, 10:37 PM

dropped it at the local camper place i'll let you guys know what they find.

JFM-jr · 10-06-2014, 06:43 PM

Spoke to the camper place the rear seals were all smashed and allowed grease to contaminate the brakes. He took pictures for me says it was done by someone that had it apart. I bought it brand new and have never had the wheels off. Im real close to the 1 year mark. Ill call couches where I bought it and see where i get. For now im on the hook for the repair tab. Thanks for all the input guys.

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