What would you do?

[divepdic]

Originally Posted by RML

Wow! The more I read, the more I realize how little I know! What are the bars! We have a Toyate Highlander, Rockwood A212HW, our first time ownership and towing. All looks good, we get great mileage, it drives easy. But we’ve never adjusted the Tow vehicle tire air pressure, I am very concerned that we are not doing something correctly.. Weve added a bike rack to the tongue over the jack, which holds two bikes, which really weighs down the TV rear end and the tongue. I’ve been considering a new hitch the would raise the connection point by about 3” as it seems that it may shift the trailer weight to the rear a bit, hey, you folks ca.n tell me anything and I will not be offended. I’m concerned about safety- my dealer seems to be a bit aloof about instructions...https://share.icloud.com/photos/0t2j...d_State_Forest

Originally Posted by Tom48

RML, I don't follow the whole thread, but I think The BARS reference a couple things, and you don't have them. BUT MAYBE YOU SHOULD. BARS, relate to Weight Distribution Hitch, WDH. Although you are towing a relatively light trailer, from your photo, it looks like you need one. When you use a passenger vehicle as a Tow Vehicle you more easily put too much weight on the rear. The WDH lifts the rear and moves some of the hitch weight forward. That levels the Tow Vehicle, TV,. It lifts that sag, and puts weight On to the front wheels which helps with steering stability, too. There are several "INSTALL VIDEOS" on ETrailer.com. Watch them and see how the different brands work. The BARS DO THE LIFTING OF THE REAR OF THE TV. There are also bars with some hitches that are tools to give your hands some help pulling the bars in to place when you hookup.

With your light rig almost any WDH should be the help you need. All this assumes you have a 2 inch hitch receiver on the TV. If you are pulling with a 1 inch receiver or a bolt on hitch ball you may have more to reaccess.

Good luck. Tom

I agree with Tom48 a light weight WDH would probably serve you well, and maybe even make your towing a little more enjoyable as well as safer.

[Scott V.]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

Easiest way is to put the trailer coupler on the ball. Insert your bars into the hitch, then using your trailer tongue jack, raise the connected trailer AND tow vehicle up until the bars are close to where you can fairly easily connect the to there brackets or the desired chain loop. Then raise the jack, lowering the TT & TV, hopefully to a fairly level position if the hitch is set up right. It is bet to do this with the trailer wheels chocked as you are taking weight of the TV rear wheels (the ones the emergency brake stop and the ones locked in by the automatic transmission parking pawl).

This is the way I was shown on how to connect them. Sometimes, however, I can't get both sides on the same chain link (ie, one side is on link 3 and the other side I can't get to link 3 and have to use link 2). Any suggestions?

[russhd1997]

Originally Posted by Scott V.

This is the way I was shown on how to connect them. Sometimes, however, I can't get both sides on the same chain link (ie, one side is on link 3 and the other side I can't get to link 3 and have to use link 2). Any suggestions?

Jack the TV/TT up higher. If you extend the tongue jack all of the way up and still can't get that 3rd link put a block under the jack to get more height.

[russhd1997]

I put our patio set in the TT for winter storage. Just have to give it one more vacuuming and close it up for the season before I move it to it's winter parking spot. I split wood for my sugar house for most of the day so the rest of it will get done tomorrow or next weekend.

[Rednight]

Originally Posted by Scott V.

This is the way I was shown on how to connect them. Sometimes, however, I can't get both sides on the same chain link (ie, one side is on link 3 and the other side I can't get to link 3 and have to use link 2). Any suggestions?

I have been in that same situation, most generally caused when the TV and TT are twisted setting on an unlevel site. I have already had the knees and back worked on and about 2 years ago had a couple of bypasses and zipper installed in my chest. So, I am not much into tugging and pulling on the spring bar latches. I always carry a small wally world hydraulic jack that fits the flats on the bottom of my spring bars nicely and if I have difficulty getting the bars latched I use the jack to boost the spring bar up a little. Just be sure everything is in line lifting straight up. I know the naysayers will be horrified but after 40 years as a Navy Shipfitter, First Class Welder in the oil fields, and Advanced Technical Training Specialist, a little common sense goes a long way.

[Boomerweps]

A couple things I did not mention to do after the load bars are installed and the tongue jack retracted.
First, I always use a couple 4x4s under the tongue jack to faster raise and lower the manual jack, along with insuring plenty of lift height.
After the hitch coupler is latched, I lock it shut.
After the bars are in place (mine are flat onto an L bracket), I place their L retaining bracket on with a pin. Forgot one once and the one bar popped off ;(
Why did I forget? Because I was on an unlevel circular campsite, trying to hook back up to go home. I have to pull out of the site, drive to a level area on the one lane camp road, and do the bar hook up procedure there. That's where I for got the bar lock tabs. Next time in a similar situation I took my time and did not try to or feel rushed about these safety actions.
After everything else, don't forget to attach the crossed safety chains (with emergency brake activation cable) and the electrical pigtail to the TV.
Pull your wheel chocks, pulling forward or going back a little to release any pressure if needed, move the wheels off any levelers & retrieve them.
I do a lot of walk around during hooking up for departure now after various mistakes and make sure everying is retrieved, connected or disconnected, as appropriate.
Now, every time I get in the TV, ready to roll, SWMBO asks me, "Did you hook up the electrical plug and the bar latches?" ;(

[Boomerweps]

Originally Posted by Rednight

I have been in that same situation, most generally caused when the TV and TT are twisted setting on an unlevel site. I have already had the knees and back worked on and about 2 years ago had a couple of bypasses and zipper installed in my chest. So, I am not much into tugging and pulling on the spring bar latches. I always carry a small wally world hydraulic jack that fits the flats on the bottom of my spring bars nicely and if I have difficulty getting the bars latched I use the jack to boost the spring bar up a little. Just be sure everything is in line lifting straight up. I know the naysayers will be horrified but after 40 years as a Navy Shipfitter, First Class Welder in the oil fields, and Advanced Technical Training Specialist, a little common sense goes a long way.

AFAIC, BRILLIANT!
Unfortunately, I'm still trying to decrease weight of my TT. So I'll just pull to a straight fairly level spot and attach my bars using the tongue jack method alone. I'm used to doing this as I have to do this after leaving my driveway due to driveway to road angles and I like having my black tank drain intact.
Thank you for your service. Go Navy!

[Rednight]

[QUOTE=Rednight;1954904] I always carry a small wally world hydraulic jack that fits the flats on the bottom of my spring bars nicely and if I have difficulty getting the bars latched I use the jack to boost the spring bar up a little. Just be sure everything is in line lifting straight up.

My spring bars have flats on the end where the chain is bolted through with the u-bolt. When I use the hydraulic jack I place it as close to the u-bolt as possible. I hook the chain latch into the 3rd link and raise the jack just to assist in closing the latch. I NEVER use the jack to raise the spring bars until I have the chain hooked securely in the latches and tension on the lift handle. I also make sure that I have a stable base under the jack, in my case a 12"x 12" jack pad.

[D W]

Originally Posted by Rednight

I have been in that same situation, most generally caused when the TV and TT are twisted setting on an unlevel site. I have already had the knees and back worked on and about 2 years ago had a couple of bypasses and zipper installed in my chest. So, I am not much into tugging and pulling on the spring bar latches. I always carry a small wally world hydraulic jack that fits the flats on the bottom of my spring bars nicely and if I have difficulty getting the bars latched I use the jack to boost the spring bar up a little. Just be sure everything is in line lifting straight up. I know the naysayers will be horrified but after 40 years as a Navy Shipfitter, First Class Welder in the oil fields, and Advanced Technical Training Specialist, a little common sense goes a long way.

Absolutely no criticism here. If it works for YOU, do it!

"Improvise, adapt and overcome"

[Scott V.]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

I do a lot of walk around during hooking up for departure now after various mistakes and make sure everying is retrieved, connected or disconnected, as appropriate.(

After reading several of the comments, my chain link problem is probably due to the slant of the road crown and not being on level ground when putting the bars on.

Also, if we pull in for an overnight and don't disconnect the TV, I always unhook the light plug. I loop a 12" piece of rope on the steering wheel to remind me to plug it back in.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Scott V.

This is the way I was shown on how to connect them. Sometimes, however, I can't get both sides on the same chain link (ie, one side is on link 3 and the other side I can't get to link 3 and have to use link 2). Any suggestions?

If this is the problem then you either need to level the TT or the tow vehicle before attaching the chains.

Or pull out to a level spot to hook up the bars.