Where does the power go?

KansasBob · 06-02-2016, 02:47 PM

I just received a random email bump from the forum, and as it turns out I have some valuable info to share. I just spent the morning with a Fluke Multi Meter attached to my Surveyor sport, have taken these load readings.

For my base line I had to pull both 40 Amp fuses on the DC side of my converter to get Zero Load. The Converter has a 0.011 amp load with no other loads. I disconnected all other loads, and found there values by reconnecting them One-at-a-time...............

Nat Gas detector (hot all the time)......... 0.07 amps dc
Radio (hot all the time) off at idle........... 0.03 amps
Radio on FM at half volume................... 0.42 amps
Water heater calling on propane..............0.7 amps
Frig calling on Propane..........................0.81 amps
Fantastic fan on low..............................0.93 amps
'' '' med.............................1.22 amps
'' '' Hi................................1.54 amps
Water pump on, but satisfied..................0.025 amps
Water pump calling...............................3.0 amps
Furnace fan only...................................2.8 amps
Furnace calling ....................................3.3 amps
One incandescent bulb in my outside lite...1.56 amps (that's one bulb!)
dbl head overhead inside lite...................3.20 amps
I have LED lamps in my interior fixtures now, and
each lamp draws only ...........................0.20 amps

I am installing a switch on my Nat Gas detector for times when I am boon docking, and need max battery life. May pull the fuses on the converter too. Not much of a load, but constant.

I have a Optmia Deep Cycle battery I have been using, but it is only rated at 55 Amp Hours. (one amp draw should run for 55 hours) I moved it inside the trailer and put a power port on it to run my TV, charge my phone...... ect. This lets my new Lead Acid Deep cycle battery rated at 110 Amp Hours run everything else. The main thing is the Frig which will not run without power for the circuit board, and gas solenoid.

Hope this info is helpful to someone.

SuicideSaints · 06-02-2016, 03:06 PM

Interesting, thanks for the info!

**Flybob** · 06-02-2016, 03:09 PM

Good data. BUT I would not recommend shutting off your CO/Propane detector anytime you are in it. If that little savings is what you need cut your trip short by a day or add another battery. Not worth the risk.

**wmtire** · 06-02-2016, 03:09 PM

Just a reminder, that your converter is also your battery recharger, which may explain why you can't get a zero load.

I didn't see where you mentioned disconnecting the battery.

KansasBob · 06-02-2016, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmtire

Just a reminder, that your converter is also your battery recharger, which may explain why you can't get a zero load.

I didn't see where you mentioned disconnecting the battery.

Yes, the converter is the charger when on shore power. Sitting idle with no shore power it has a very small constant power draw on the battery.

I measured my amp draw at the battery with my Fluke in series between the battery, and lead going to the RV. So the battery is disconnected and the Meter placed between the battery and the wire that was connected to it.

KansasBob · 06-02-2016, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flybob

Good data. BUT I would not recommend shutting off your CO/Propane detector anytime you are in it. If that little savings is what you need cut your trip short by a day or add another battery. Not worth the risk.

Thank you for your concern, and yes you are correct, less safe with it disconnected. Of the 3 the only detector on 12 volt power is the Nat Gas detector. The Smoke and Carbon-monoxide detectors are on there own batteries. I suppose I could rig up a stand alone 12 volt source for it, but most likely will take the safe route, and leave it hooked up.

stevejahr · 06-03-2016, 01:00 AM

Good data.

Does that fridge have the notorious "heat cable" in it and turned on? That is good for a bit over 1/4 amp by my measurement/example.

KansasBob · 06-03-2016, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevejahr

Good data.

Does that fridge have the notorious "heat cable" in it and turned on? That is good for a bit over 1/4 amp by my measurement/example.

Where is the heat cable located? In the seal around the door, or is it for some other purpose?

SuicideSaints · 06-03-2016, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KansasBob

Where is the heat cable located? In the seal around the door, or is it for some other purpose?

My power cable for the heat strip was run through the refrigerator light fixture. One cable in there was for the light and the other ran the heat strip. I had no on or off switch for the heat strip so I just snipped the wire and added 2 connection ends in case I ever wanted to hook it back up.

TURBS · 06-03-2016, 08:38 AM

This [emoji667][emoji667][emoji667][emoji667][emoji667][emoji667][emoji14]

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
2016 nights camped "6"

SeaDog · 06-03-2016, 08:50 AM

Good info on what the basic systems draw. LED lighting is sure a way to save power

KansasBob · 06-03-2016, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeaDog

Good info on what the basic systems draw. LED lighting is sure a way to save power

I have to admit I went with the Cheapest ones I could find in China on ebay, and there light output is not that great. When it's totally dark they are fine, but do loose some of their light output after they warm up in the enclosed fixture. I may do away with the standard retrofitted fixtures, and go with a purpose built LED fixture at some point. Anyone have a good source for LED's?

Tom48 · 06-03-2016, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuicideSaints

Interesting, thanks for the info!

2X. Thanks for sharing valuable information. I

bob dirt · 06-03-2016, 12:15 PM

good info...but if you had a portable solar panel you wouldn't need to worry about the little stuff. best upgrade I have

KansasBob · 06-03-2016, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob dirt

good info...but if you had a portable solar panel you wouldn't need to worry about the little stuff. best upgrade I have

It all takes time.........

Can you list the equipment you use, and the source? Price when you purchased it?

bob dirt · 06-03-2016, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KansasBob

It all takes time.........

Can you list the equipment you use, and the source? Price when you purchased it?

I bought the Zamp 120 watt folding panel with the weatherproof controller and storage case. There are less expensive panels out there, but this very convenient and no hassle using or storing. Can't remember the site I bought it from but prices change all the time.Just sniff around the net

stevejahr · 06-03-2016, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuicideSaints

My power cable for the heat strip was run through the refrigerator light fixture. One cable in there was for the light and the other ran the heat strip. I had no on or off switch for the heat strip so I just snipped the wire and added 2 connection ends in case I ever wanted to hook it back up.

Sounds very much like mine: circuit board in LED light/switch housing. One cable is 4 pins to provide power/ground/switch/LAC connections. Other cable is 2 pins for heat strip. No need to cut wires when you can just unplug.

KansasBob · 06-03-2016, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob dirt

I bought the Zamp 120 watt folding panel with the weatherproof controller and storage case. There are less expensive panels out there, but this very convenient and no hassle using or storing. Can't remember the site I bought it from but prices change all the time.Just sniff around the net

Very quick search found this to be the best deal. Might do better with some more research. $544 Not Zamp though..........

http://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-PS...words=zamp+120

These look cool too. $579

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Go-Power-100...wAAOSwT6pVyxeA

Best deal on the Zamp. $629

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zamp-Solar-P...VW9c~G&vxp=mtr

Radio · 06-03-2016, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KansasBob

I have to admit I went with the Cheapest ones I could find in China on ebay, and there light output is not that great.

I got 20 Chinese LEDs for $30. They are small, not all that bright and blue-ish. But they are fine for the toilet room, under counters and those swivel reading lights. Also for the storage bay. What you would expect for $1.50 each.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KansasBob

Anyone have a good source for LED's?

cabinbright.com. I got warm white but very bright LEDs form these folks. Fast service and reasonable. prices. I ordered T10/921 wedge based 24 LED bulbs stock # T 10-24-32. They are same color as real bulbs (not everybody likes that) and seem just as bright. $8.95 each.

Seem to be a Mom and Pop outfit worthy of supporting.

boondocking · 06-03-2016, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KansasBob

Very quick search found this to be the best deal. Might do better with some more research. $544 Not Zamp though..........

Amazon.com: Go Power! GP-PSK-120 120W Portable Folding Solar Kit with 10 Amp Solar Controller: Automotive

These look cool too. $579

Go Power 100 Watt Flexible Solar Charging Expansion Kit GP Flex 100E New | eBay

Best deal on the Zamp. $629

Zamp Solar Portable 120 Watt Zamp Solar with 10A Controller ZS 120 P | eBay

Those are way too pricey. Search Ebay and pick one up for $200.
Here is one example.

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