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Old 06-02-2016, 03:47 PM   #1
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Where does the power go?

I just received a random email bump from the forum, and as it turns out I have some valuable info to share. I just spent the morning with a Fluke Multi Meter attached to my Surveyor sport, have taken these load readings.

For my base line I had to pull both 40 Amp fuses on the DC side of my converter to get Zero Load. The Converter has a 0.011 amp load with no other loads. I disconnected all other loads, and found there values by reconnecting them One-at-a-time...............

Nat Gas detector (hot all the time)......... 0.07 amps dc
Radio (hot all the time) off at idle........... 0.03 amps
Radio on FM at half volume................... 0.42 amps
Water heater calling on propane..............0.7 amps
Frig calling on Propane..........................0.81 amps
Fantastic fan on low..............................0.93 amps
'' '' med.............................1.22 amps
'' '' Hi................................1.54 amps
Water pump on, but satisfied..................0.025 amps
Water pump calling...............................3.0 amps
Furnace fan only...................................2.8 amps
Furnace calling ....................................3.3 amps
One incandescent bulb in my outside lite...1.56 amps (that's one bulb!)
dbl head overhead inside lite...................3.20 amps
I have LED lamps in my interior fixtures now, and
each lamp draws only ...........................0.20 amps

I am installing a switch on my Nat Gas detector for times when I am boon docking, and need max battery life. May pull the fuses on the converter too. Not much of a load, but constant.

I have a Optmia Deep Cycle battery I have been using, but it is only rated at 55 Amp Hours. (one amp draw should run for 55 hours) I moved it inside the trailer and put a power port on it to run my TV, charge my phone...... ect. This lets my new Lead Acid Deep cycle battery rated at 110 Amp Hours run everything else. The main thing is the Frig which will not run without power for the circuit board, and gas solenoid.

Hope this info is helpful to someone.
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:06 PM   #2
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Interesting, thanks for the info!
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:09 PM   #3
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Good data. BUT I would not recommend shutting off your CO/Propane detector anytime you are in it. If that little savings is what you need cut your trip short by a day or add another battery. Not worth the risk.
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:09 PM   #4
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Just a reminder, that your converter is also your battery recharger, which may explain why you can't get a zero load.

I didn't see where you mentioned disconnecting the battery.
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:18 PM   #5
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Just a reminder, that your converter is also your battery recharger, which may explain why you can't get a zero load.

I didn't see where you mentioned disconnecting the battery.
Yes, the converter is the charger when on shore power. Sitting idle with no shore power it has a very small constant power draw on the battery.

I measured my amp draw at the battery with my Fluke in series between the battery, and lead going to the RV. So the battery is disconnected and the Meter placed between the battery and the wire that was connected to it.
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:26 PM   #6
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Good data. BUT I would not recommend shutting off your CO/Propane detector anytime you are in it. If that little savings is what you need cut your trip short by a day or add another battery. Not worth the risk.
Thank you for your concern, and yes you are correct, less safe with it disconnected. Of the 3 the only detector on 12 volt power is the Nat Gas detector. The Smoke and Carbon-monoxide detectors are on there own batteries. I suppose I could rig up a stand alone 12 volt source for it, but most likely will take the safe route, and leave it hooked up.
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:00 AM   #7
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Good data.

Does that fridge have the notorious "heat cable" in it and turned on? That is good for a bit over 1/4 amp by my measurement/example.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:19 AM   #8
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Good data.

Does that fridge have the notorious "heat cable" in it and turned on? That is good for a bit over 1/4 amp by my measurement/example.
Where is the heat cable located? In the seal around the door, or is it for some other purpose?
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:38 AM   #9
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Where is the heat cable located? In the seal around the door, or is it for some other purpose?
My power cable for the heat strip was run through the refrigerator light fixture. One cable in there was for the light and the other ran the heat strip. I had no on or off switch for the heat strip so I just snipped the wire and added 2 connection ends in case I ever wanted to hook it back up.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:38 AM   #10
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