Winter Worries

[Ilovemywife]

I'm living full time in my RV in an RV park and moving to a warmer location is not an option-work related usage.

Temps are expected to get in the teens during Dec-March and I'm wondering how much propane I can expect to consume just to keep things above freezing overnight and while I'm at work.

The heating ducts run under the floor between the tanks and there are no tank heaters.

Please comment on my plan:

a. Removeable RV skirting-does this really help?
b. 200 watt heater in "garage" where the water pump and water filter are installed. This heater will be attached to a thermostat outlet that turns on at 35 deg F and turns off at 40 deg F

b. 1500 watt heater under the skirt that also has a thermostat outlet on at 35 deg F. THis and the 200 watt heater will be run from the 50 amp outlet that will have two 30 amp splitters coming out of it.


c. Inside, I have a 30k BTU heater that I expect will run very often especially at night.


d. I will have a 1500 watt heater in my bedroom that I can close off with a sliding door from the rest of the camper. I'm hoping that I can maintain at least 68 deg F with this heater supplemented with the blower furnace.


e. At night before bedtime, I will be a portable mr. buddy propane ventless heater to supplement the forced air heater. I will not run this heater at night nor will I allow it to heat things up so much that heater doesn't turn on so tanks will stay warm.


f. Hose will have thermostatically controlled heater wire and will be wrapped in insulation. WIll also have heaters on the tank valves.


g. All visible PEX water lines will be insulated with foam insulation.

h. Exhaust fans enclosures will be insulated with foam cut to size.

I. Sunroofs (is that what they are called?) in shower will be insulated with foam


Am I missing anything? How realistic am I that I can maintain a somewhat warm environment when I'm in the camper? I need to be comfortable so I can study after work for several hours each night before bedtime and I would like now to freeze when I stop out of the shower.


Couple of full timers here have small residential style propane tanks. I will probably get one hoping that it can last at least a month and have 2 30 lb tanks as backup if it runs out on me.
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share.

[debit]

All good ideas. However for inside heating, I have used an oil filled radiator heater at 900 watts, plugged into a separate electrical line that is not part of RV's electrical system. Sometimes, I will use the furnace, but not often.
......................
Ram2500 diesel, FR 251rks

[Ilovemywife]

Originally Posted by debit

All good ideas. However for inside heating, I have used an oil filled radiator heater at 900 watts, plugged into a separate electrical line that is not part of RV's electrical system. Sometimes, I will use the furnace, but not often.
......................
Ram2500 diesel, FR 251rks

Thanks for the tip. You are right, I remember using this type of heater in an unheated room and it seemed to work better than the cube forced air heaters.

Anybody else have tips for me?

Do I have to do anything to the fridge to winterize it in temps below freezing? I saw that Dometic sells a vent screen that blocks off the airflow for cold weather use. Any idea what temp I will really need to use this or put some foam to block the inlet vent on the fridge?

[B and B]

For the fridge I know the Norcold has a low temp heater on the refrigeration system. I keep the ammonia from freezing and causing a bad situation with hot ammonia hitting cold.I would check with Dometic for best practices with your fridge.

I like you idea of heat used just for freeze protection. Do you pay for electric? There is a electric add on called Easy Heat that mount on your furnace. Many Heartland Bighorn and Landmark owners have added this feature. This would look after heat in the trailer and underbelly.

[Cypressloser]

Ok, cold weather is a relative term.

The insulation and build quality of your RV are hugely important. Skirting is good for blocking the wind but does very little to protect exposed systems from freezing.
We live fulltime in our RiverStone and did stay in temperatures below freezing between the 1st of November and March or April with a number of nights going down to neg. 45 deg F, I guess I'm qualified to respond
1. If you can rig up any kind of skirting and park the RV on a breathable tarp (hay stack cover) that would help.
2. Don't rely on heated water hoses, they will fail, use your freshwater tank. If the freshwater tank or the hoses are exposed buy a 50 gal. tank and place it in a heated storage bay and connect it directly to the freshwater pump.

3. Install heat pads (120 Volt, not 12 Volt) under all tanks.
4. Wrap the dump valves and exposed drain pipes in heat tape.
5. 100 gal. Pig Tank for propane allows you to buy bulk instead of filling portable cylinders every other day.
6. Place remote readout thermometers with alarm in the water bay, near the freshwater pump, and everything else mission critical related to water and waste water.

7. Styrofoam blocks in the roof vents and shower skylight.
8. Mr. Heater Big Buddy is great but it smells.
9. Seal and possibly insulate the underbelly and water lines regardless whether you skirt or not.

10. Use a compressor type dehumidifier to control the humidity level in the RV, others don't work trust me - you can not use your exhaust fans when it's that cold.
11. You may have to put block insulation between the bed/mattress and the exterior wall to prevent moisture and mold growth. You may need to lay out a layer of egg crates under the mattress to prevent mold growth under there.

12. Keep a roll of Reflectix and maybe some pink fiberglass on hand just in case.
13. Costco sells thick area rugs, buy a couple and put them under the dining table, in the living area and in the bedroom to keep your feet warm.
14. Keep your tanks closed until full. Make 100% sure that the valves seal properly and don't leak or else you'll end up with a frozen poopsicle in your drain pipes.
15. Small electric heater in the water bay, near the freshwater pump and plumbing, incandescent light bulbs are not safe. Just be careful to monitor the temperature as they may be inside a small enclosed space.


Much of the above may be overkill in moderate climates and well insulated RV-s but it gives you something to work with.

[SailorSam20500]

Just a FWIW.

Last January, we drove down to Texas. We spent a night in Sikeston Mo. We got there about 4PM. Temp was about 5 degrees F. For whatever reason, the trailer furnace decided to take a night off. We survived on a 1500 and 400 watt electric heaters inside the trailer. We were dry camping - camper was winterized and no water in the tanks.
That night the temps hit -12 F. Inside the trailer was chilly, but livable. We stayed toasty warm all night with a heave quilt and an electric mattress pad. Prior to departing, I had put a sheet of reflectix under the mattress.

On our way down, I saw several trailers being used full time. In addition to the temp skirting, several had bales of hay or straw all the way around the trailer.

[Cypressloser]

Straw or hay bales seem like a good idea at first but they attract rodents, leave a mess in spring and a lot of campgrounds don't allow them for the reasons above.

[Indymule]

Originally Posted by Cypressloser

Straw or hay bales seem like a good idea at first but they attract rodents, leave a mess in spring and a lot of campgrounds don't allow them for the reasons above.

Not to mention you’ll be sleep on top of a big load of fire starter. Not a good idea.

[Indymule]

Originally Posted by Cypressloser

Straw or hay bales seem like a good idea at first but they attract rodents, leave a mess in spring and a lot of campgrounds don't allow them for the reasons above.

Not to mention you’ll be sleeping on top of a big load of fire starter. Not a good idea.

[Ilovemywife]

Not sure why a 200 watt heater in my storage area where water pump is located is unsafe. It will be attached to a thermocube outlet.

I live in a very dry state but it sounds like humidity will be a problem.

Please provide with a known effective dehumidifier.

Thanks and keep them coming. My camper isn't the best insulated but it is what I have.

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by Ilovemywife

Not sure why a 200 watt heater in my storage area where water pump is located is unsafe. It will be attached to a thermocube outlet.

I live in a very dry state but it sounds like humidity will be a problem.

Please provide with a known effective dehumidifier.

Thanks and keep them coming. My camper isn't the best insulated but it is what I have.

I apologize I should have been more clear.

A small cube heater is ok, but be aware that you get what you pay for. Monitor the temperature, too hot or too cold can turn into a disaster. Incandescent light bulbs are a favorite for some folks but I've seen even small 20 Watt bulbs melt into 60 Watt rated socket and that can cause a fire. It would be the safest to connect these space heaters to a separate from the trailer GFCI protected outlet with a heavy duty extension cord from the outside to prevent overloading the distribution panel or individual breakers. Resistive loads from electric space heaters can add up fast.

Dehumidifiers that require desiccants don't have the capacity to remove large amounts of water from the air in a short period of time, after a shower or from cooking. That's why compressor type dehumidifiers like this one for example are much better suited for the job. Don't mind the price, you'll find them much cheaper elsewhere. Garrison, Noma, Danby come to mind, they're all made in China. https://www.amazon.ca/Frigidaire-FFA...0_&dpSrc=srchr



If your trailer is poorly insulated you will most likely have to deal with frozen waterlines in and under the floor and to and from the water pump. Ive seen a couple that placed a 40 gal. horse waterer like this one in a corner near the kitchen sink and hooked up a pump and simply spliced it into their trailer's freshwater system.
https://www.sstack.com/product/39-ga...d-water-caddy/

[Chrisb009]

I rv’ed in Wi full time through winter months. First and most important install tank heaters on your fresh water tank at a bare minimum. Tank heaters on the grey and black tanks do help when you use the on board facilities. 12 VDC tank heaters are fine since 12 VDC will stay powered while traveling on the road. They can be powered via your converter if you have enough capacity or via a heavier converter. Just finished installing four tank heaters on my 5the wheel - all are 12 VDC. Once you have the fresh water tank protected do not use a heated water hose...fill the tank when needed and draw off the tank. Only dump your tanks when necessary and keep your sewer hose out of the elements. Obtain some clear plastic and cut oversized for your windows. Velcro the plastic over your windows all the way around the edge to help seal the drafty windows, will help keep the heat in and reduce the amount of condensation. There are other methods to help reduce cold seeping through the windows such as reflective material - do a simple google search. Skirting does help however I never utilized one while in Wi. Make sure piping does not freeze by either keeping cabinet doors open or installing small boxer fans to help circulate the warm air through the cabinet areas. If you can...install a cover under the trailer. Will help keep the cold out of the floor area and require less power to keep items warm. Covers are typically made out of coroplast plastic (plastic signage type of material). Didn’t have one on the trailer I used in Wi and everything worked fine until the temp hit below 60 degrees F. Main issue was the pick line from the water tank would freeze in those temps due to the fact the wind would blow right up under the trailer. In fact...it got so cold my diesel fuel gelled once while in Wi.