Winterize and saving rv antifreeze

[bob caldwell]

I just follow the sun..........

[offduty11]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

It can become diluted if you try to reuse it, but for $2.50 - $3 a gallon its not worth it in my opinion.

I agree

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by ScottAndKim

Thanks y'all.. I'm a cheapo by nature and since the cold won't last long and we will be going out again in two weeks (stupid other plans) I didn't want to waste it on just one use. Now to find a hand pump or something to push it through with. Any advice on this.

Yes, Blow out the lines, then winterize with RV antifreeze. Recapture it from your low point drains using the compressed air. That should get most of it back. Then close low point drains and capture the kitchen and bathroom circuits by opening the faucets into a sufficient size container under slight air pressure < 40 psi. Your only loss would be your toilet circuits.

Remember this, if you blow your lines out first, no measurable water present to dilute anti-freeze introduced, therefore, the antifreeze you recapture is good for reuse, if it wasn't it would freeze up in the first application, right!

[Evereddie]

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

I just follow the sun..........

So at night you go West?

[bob caldwell]

Hit the ON button.........

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by Evereddie

We winterize, re-winterize several times a season. Use compressed air, anti-freeze in the traps. Never an issue.

X 2 ant-freeze is cheap. Later RJD

[bob caldwell]

Another option.

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[MilCop4523]

if you value your time at less than 9 bucks for 2 gallons of Antifreeze reclaiming then sure you can do what you think is best for teh environment i guess. my hourly wage is more than the trouble to put catch basins under, get a funnel out of the garage and try to trap some of the pink stuff.

and the 9 bucks an hour thing is for illustration - knowing that some people are retired and love to putter.. not intended to upset the poster or audience

[satdog01]

I buy enough antifreeze at Wally World when they first put it out, $1.99 this year to do for 2 treatments. One for extreme winter and one if needed after our week in LA in Feb when we return. First trailer we had, missed the outside shower, line froze in wall between shower and bath sink. After removing a it of cabinetry and a trip to the hardware , replaced about 5 feet of tubing that was wrapped in a loop through a stud? Figuring my labor and that of a friend, could have saved a bit on just doing the winterization right in the first place. Not to think of the lines in the current rv are PEX and getting my hands on the tool to that repair would be another issue. The last I checked into that about $75 for the tool at HD. Bottom line I can get a lot of air and antifreeze for that. Better off spending my time fishing! Than fixing stupid!

[ScottAndKim]

Amen to fishing than fixing


Kim and Scott.
Charlie,Hank,and Tater our dogs.
Live and Learn

[pmsherman]

My 2011 Georgetown gets stored in Northern Ohio during spells where overnight temperatures frequently drop to the low 20s. I winterize by blowing out the water lines and using antifreeze in the traps. Unfortunately, blowing out the system does not remove water from one critical point in the water system.

The water pump is located in a place where compressed air, introduced through the city water connection, cannot blow out the water.

After I blow out the water lines, I introduce RV antifreeze into the system through the winterizing hose but only use enough to flush the water out of the pump area. It's easy to do this because the pump output goes to the water filter housing and the clear plastic case makes it simple to see that all water has been flushed out.

When I dewinterize, I run water from a bucket into the system the same way to flush out the antifreeze. I usually run two or three fills of the filter holder to make sure all of the antifreeze is gone. Once the antifreeze is gone, I reinstall the filter.

Phil

[Papa-t]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

It can become diluted if you try to reuse it, but for $2.50 - $3 a gallon its not worth it in my opinion.

I second that: for the cost it's just not worth risking. And also in real cold climates using air is chancing it. I just sleep better knowing for sure it's all protected.

[Evereddie]

Originally Posted by Papa-t

I second that: for the cost it's just not worth risking. And also in real cold climates using air is chancing it. I just sleep better knowing for sure it's all protected.

'Chancing it', not sure where that comes from. Not sure why some people think using compressed air is chancing it. Before there was 'people friendly' antifreeze, compressed air is what they used to winterize a camper. You blow the water out and it's good.

[Oaklevel]

Our first trailer just blowing out the lines didn't work. Fixing a split copper water line behind the shower was not fun and I was 30 years younger. So now I do blow out the lines and use anti freeze. So yes depending on the trailer just blowing out the lines can be chancing it. It my work for some and that's fine. But $5 worth of antifreeze is just good insurance.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Evereddie

'Chancing it', not sure where that comes from. Not sure why some people think using compressed air is chancing it. Before there was 'people friendly' antifreeze, compressed air is what they used to winterize a camper. You blow the water out and it's good.

Because sometimes there is the 'chance' of a droplet of water remaining somewhere where it creates havoc.

Twice I've seen sink faucet valves split because the owner just blew out the lines with compressed air and several times the toilet valve.

Adding antifreeze after using compressed air resolves those issues.

[Evereddie]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Because sometimes there is the 'chance' of a droplet of water remaining somewhere where it creates havoc.

Twice I've seen sink faucet valves split because the owner just blew out the lines with compressed air and several times the toilet valve.

Adding antifreeze after using compressed air resolves those issues.

OK, wouldn't want a newbie to try compressed air without the experience to pull it off. Wouldn't want anyone to damage their trailer. Compressed air alone is a bad idea. Don't anyone ever use compressed air only, always follow up with anti-freeze.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Evereddie

OK, wouldn't want a newbie to try compressed air without the experience to pull it off. Wouldn't want anyone to damage their trailer. Compressed air alone is a bad idea. Don't anyone ever use compressed air only, always follow up with anti-freeze.

Until every RV is Plumbed the Same way and we all live in the Same place,I also Agree that Anti-Freeze be used for Real Winterizing Protection! Youroo!!

[youroo]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Because sometimes there is the 'chance' of a droplet of water remaining somewhere where it creates havoc.

Twice I've seen sink faucet valves split because the owner just blew out the lines with compressed air and several times the toilet valve.

Adding antifreeze after using compressed air resolves those issues.

To add to the Places that Water can HIDE are,the Upside Down shower control valves that 50% of the RV Factory's install"Upside-Down"! Hose outlet for Hose should be located at BOTTOM! The knobs will now also turn the Correct way! Youroo!!

[bob caldwell]

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[AquaMan]

I think compressed air would be perfectly fine for someone in a moderate temperature zone as the OP, especially for a short term solution as he originally stated. The problem with just air in colder climates is, it takes a large volume of air at a constant rate to blow the lines clean. A small compressor isn't going to push all the water out when you have 8 water outlets like I currently have in my GTown or the 9 outlets I had in my 5er. While it may look as though all the water is out, enough water can remain in the vertical runs and, when the air stops, collect in a low spot and freeze. I blow my pool lines for winterization with a large shop vac for a good 1/2 hour or more. Not saying it can't be done with just air, I have 40hp compressor, that feeds 2 120 gallon tanks, that I blow my lines with and feel pretty confident that the water is gone, but still add antifreeze because of where I live. BTW I still had a tank flush siphon valve freeze and crack because I didn't blow it out well enough.