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Old 02-04-2016, 10:39 PM   #31
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My 2011 Georgetown gets stored in Northern Ohio during spells where overnight temperatures frequently drop to the low 20s. I winterize by blowing out the water lines and using antifreeze in the traps. Unfortunately, blowing out the system does not remove water from one critical point in the water system.

The water pump is located in a place where compressed air, introduced through the city water connection, cannot blow out the water.

After I blow out the water lines, I introduce RV antifreeze into the system through the winterizing hose but only use enough to flush the water out of the pump area. It's easy to do this because the pump output goes to the water filter housing and the clear plastic case makes it simple to see that all water has been flushed out.

When I dewinterize, I run water from a bucket into the system the same way to flush out the antifreeze. I usually run two or three fills of the filter holder to make sure all of the antifreeze is gone. Once the antifreeze is gone, I reinstall the filter.

Phil
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:42 PM   #32
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It can become diluted if you try to reuse it, but for $2.50 - $3 a gallon its not worth it in my opinion.

I second that: for the cost it's just not worth risking. And also in real cold climates using air is chancing it. I just sleep better knowing for sure it's all protected.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:05 PM   #33
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I second that: for the cost it's just not worth risking. And also in real cold climates using air is chancing it. I just sleep better knowing for sure it's all protected.
'Chancing it', not sure where that comes from. Not sure why some people think using compressed air is chancing it. Before there was 'people friendly' antifreeze, compressed air is what they used to winterize a camper. You blow the water out and it's good.
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Old 02-05-2016, 06:20 AM   #34
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Our first trailer just blowing out the lines didn't work. Fixing a split copper water line behind the shower was not fun and I was 30 years younger. So now I do blow out the lines and use anti freeze. So yes depending on the trailer just blowing out the lines can be chancing it. It my work for some and that's fine. But $5 worth of antifreeze is just good insurance.

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Old 02-05-2016, 07:26 AM   #35
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'Chancing it', not sure where that comes from. Not sure why some people think using compressed air is chancing it. Before there was 'people friendly' antifreeze, compressed air is what they used to winterize a camper. You blow the water out and it's good.
Because sometimes there is the 'chance' of a droplet of water remaining somewhere where it creates havoc.

Twice I've seen sink faucet valves split because the owner just blew out the lines with compressed air and several times the toilet valve.

Adding antifreeze after using compressed air resolves those issues.
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Old 02-05-2016, 07:29 AM   #36
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Because sometimes there is the 'chance' of a droplet of water remaining somewhere where it creates havoc.

Twice I've seen sink faucet valves split because the owner just blew out the lines with compressed air and several times the toilet valve.

Adding antifreeze after using compressed air resolves those issues.
OK, wouldn't want a newbie to try compressed air without the experience to pull it off. Wouldn't want anyone to damage their trailer. Compressed air alone is a bad idea. Don't anyone ever use compressed air only, always follow up with anti-freeze.
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:28 AM   #37
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OK, wouldn't want a newbie to try compressed air without the experience to pull it off. Wouldn't want anyone to damage their trailer. Compressed air alone is a bad idea. Don't anyone ever use compressed air only, always follow up with anti-freeze.
Until every RV is Plumbed the Same way and we all live in the Same place,I also Agree that Anti-Freeze be used for Real Winterizing Protection! Youroo!!
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:36 AM   #38
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Because sometimes there is the 'chance' of a droplet of water remaining somewhere where it creates havoc.

Twice I've seen sink faucet valves split because the owner just blew out the lines with compressed air and several times the toilet valve.

Adding antifreeze after using compressed air resolves those issues.
To add to the Places that Water can HIDE are,the Upside Down shower control valves that 50% of the RV Factory's install"Upside-Down"! Hose outlet for Hose should be located at BOTTOM! The knobs will now also turn the Correct way! Youroo!!
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:39 AM   #39
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:53 AM   #40
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I think compressed air would be perfectly fine for someone in a moderate temperature zone as the OP, especially for a short term solution as he originally stated. The problem with just air in colder climates is, it takes a large volume of air at a constant rate to blow the lines clean. A small compressor isn't going to push all the water out when you have 8 water outlets like I currently have in my GTown or the 9 outlets I had in my 5er. While it may look as though all the water is out, enough water can remain in the vertical runs and, when the air stops, collect in a low spot and freeze. I blow my pool lines for winterization with a large shop vac for a good 1/2 hour or more. Not saying it can't be done with just air, I have 40hp compressor, that feeds 2 120 gallon tanks, that I blow my lines with and feel pretty confident that the water is gone, but still add antifreeze because of where I live. BTW I still had a tank flush siphon valve freeze and crack because I didn't blow it out well enough.
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