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Old 06-14-2015, 08:22 AM   #21
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Just curious, are there a lot of campgrounds that don't have power? So far, we have only stayed at State run sites.
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:18 AM   #22
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Just be careful of Db sound level regardless of what you buy. What you think is negligible may not be. 59 Db is twice a loud as 56Db. It's NOT a linear scale.
Actually I think you are a little off. While the Db scale is logarithmic, it is the Power Ratio where 3 Db represents doubling. On the Amplitude Ratio 3 Db represents an increase of 1.413 while 1 Db is an increase of 1.122. So you are correct that a 3 Db difference is worth considering. Also, the distance from the object has a big effect as doubling the distance to the measurement point reduces the level by 6 Db. I mention this because the Champion Gen. Db level is measured at 20+ feet I believe. The quietest Gen. according to what I have seen is the Honda. I would prefer the Yam but I don't want to spend $250 (plus the cost of the tank) for a remote fuel tank.
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:59 AM   #23
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Just curious, are there a lot of campgrounds that don't have power? So far, we have only stayed at State run sites.
Depends on which state you're in.

In California, less than 1% of the state park campsites have power.
The few that do, are usually reserved 6 months in advance, all year.

Very few National Parks have campsites with power.
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:24 AM   #24
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We have 2 Honda 2000 and run them parallel. Bought them for use with a previous RV but use them mostly for power outage! Lol


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Old 06-14-2015, 12:29 PM   #25
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Just curious, are there a lot of campgrounds that don't have power? So far, we have only stayed at State run sites.
We stay in national forests. Millions of square miles to camp in. Just drive down the dirt road and find a flat place. This is called dispersed camping.

Scattered around inside the national forest are some forest service campgrounds. These are usually located at popular areas, meaning there are probably 20+ sites filled with other people. But at least they are far enough away that sometimes you could not even throw a rock at them.

These will almost always have water available. Sometimes there are threadless water spigots scattered around. You will need a water thief to use a water hose. Someone will have to hold the hose on the spigot while you add water to your fresh water tank. I have found that I have never, so far, used more than 175 of water hose from the spigot to my campsite. Sometimes it is a pipe coming out of the side of a hill, where they have tapped into a spring.Sometimes I get water from a creek. I have my own water filter to make the water safe to drink. There is almost always either flush toilets or at least pit (vault) toilets.

I grew up in a big city and use camping as a way to get away from the crowds. For real solitude I go backpacking but DW cannot do that any more.

We only stay in RV parks for a single night when traveling cross country. They remind me of drive-in theaters.

Most RVs are self contained, meaning hookups are not required. Some people will never camp anywhere that does not have hook ups. That means they will not be camped near me.

Other people hate to be alone in the forest. Or they use more than 5 gallons of water per person per day. So they choose to stay in RV parks.

We each get to choose where we stay.

After I posted this I realized that the question was a bit off topic. Someone should move the question and the reply's to a more appropriate location.
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:35 PM   #26
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you don't reverse the process to start...leave the wires disconnected....its a one time deal...to start just rotate switch up choke and pull....
SO just disconnect one of the wires and now the on off switch does what? Nothing? Or is this what triggers the 3 minutes of run before shutting off. Never heard of this but I am interested.
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:23 PM   #27
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your answer

the Honda black rotating on/off switch....at on [up] power to spark plug and fuel valve opens...at off [down] closes a fuel valve and cuts power to spark plug ...thats NORMAL SWITCH OPERATIONS....with wire disconnected residual fuel in carb will run +- 3 minutes burning carb dry with the switch turned down. by disconnecting that wire, it stops the off switch from killing power to sparkplug in the down position [so it ...sparkplug, will be live all the time], so the engine continues to run until carb is dry. hope that clears things up.
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:36 PM   #28
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It does, thank you very much. I will need to do that. Saves me from needing to drain the carb.
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:54 PM   #29
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on the iu honda 2000 it is very simple to run carb dry...bottom right when side panel removed is a elec coupling which disconnects the off switch when you turn it down to off....will run for 3mins and quit....learned that on you tube which is a powerhouse of info.
I bought two EU2000I's one is the companion so that gives a 30 amp plug. I was fortunate enough to find them slightly used on a Craigslist for a lot less. While many have different ideas on what they will use it really only matters to you the end user. Mine we still unde warranty when I got them so my risk was very low.

The Honda does in fact have a fuel shiut off, unfortunately it's not separate from the ignition. Why a major engine manufacturer would not separate these knowing how bad the additives in fuel are to carburetor and other internal parts is beyond me. Probably the keep it simple for some mechanically challenged types is the only reason I can fathom.

I open the panel & disconnect the ignition wire and with the switch in off all fuel is cut off, start it up and it runs dry reconnect same wire and put it away until it's time to use it again.

Oh and any fuel you buy for your generators should only be premium (no Ethanol added) and add Stabil or some other reputable stabilizer so it has a decent shelf life.

Good luck with your generators which ever you buy.
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:00 PM   #30
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To answer the OP's original question, I don't think you can go wrong with either brand. That being said, we have a Honda that we bought in 2003. I have changed the oil every season and cleaned the air filter a few times. It's a Honda. They last forever. I don't worry about draining the fuel as I use Stabil all the time. When I fill up the gas can I put Stabil in so I know it's in the gen. I have gone 7 months without using it and it starts on the 7th pull at worst. Jerry


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Old 06-15-2015, 03:38 PM   #31
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old airmech......that is a ground wire....if you disconnect it and turn switch off [i.e. fuel off] then the plug is not being grounded and motor continues to run til carb dry.
maybe we are talking different wires...your way seems to add a lot of xtra work. I also have two 2000's that I buss together.....just sayin !!
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:32 PM   #32
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You're correct it is the ground wire, I have only done it twice since I bought them and was going off memory. Still it is pretty quick start to finish and run till she shuts off.

I also join them together with the Honda harness and if I set them to Eco mode (low idle) I can run anything and it will only ramp up when it needs to. I mostly went this route as two EU2000's are easy to store and carry and the bonus is they can run my air conditioning and with a big Yellow Labrador that's all that matters.
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:03 PM   #33
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That is a major issue. Looking online I found an extended run kit for the Yams that does not require the tank to be higher than the generator at PinellasPower. It has a fuel pump of some type for the tank, downside is they want $250 for it without the tank. A machined cap is also available for gravity feed but you would have to fabricate everything else and I'm not sure how that setup would perform. There is not much info online about the gravity feed tank setup and if it will actually work without leaking at the cap. Obviously leaking gas could be devastating.

As much as I like the Yam's for the reasons already stated I may go with the Honda's due to the fact that Wise Sales sells a "plug and play" extended run tank that is proven.
Correction- The kit from pinellas power consists of a fuel pump mounted on the motor that runs from crankcase pulse pressure. It comes with hoses and fittings, tank not included. It costs $250 plus another $40 for a tank. I have not seen a kit from them for a dual gen setup meaning the end cost for 2 will be in the $540 range. I think I am going with the Hondas and an extended run setup from wise. Total cost wil be about $2200.
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:22 PM   #34
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i like 40 hours on 20lb propane.

Tri-Fuel Kit for Honda EU2000i
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tri-Fuel Kit Honda EU2000 - generatorsales.com‎

Adwww.generatorsales.com/Tri-Fuel-Kit‎

LP Gas, Natural Gas & Gas Runs 40+ hours on 20 lb LP tank!
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:35 PM   #35
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did this awhile back

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Old 06-16-2015, 07:43 AM   #36
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I have a 30 amp tt. What size gen do I need to run lights, TV, microwave and AC, all at the same time?
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:41 PM   #37
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I have a 30 amp tt. What size gen do I need to run lights, TV, microwave and AC, all at the same time?
Minimum of 3000w.
How many btu's is the a/c?
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:10 PM   #38
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I have a 30 amp tt. What size gen do I need to run lights, TV, microwave and AC, all at the same time?
To supply 30 amps that would be 3600 watts, running watts not starting watts. Probably looking at a 4500 wattt gen. The Honda 3000 wattt would have a hard time running a 15000 btu ac unit and a microwave. The two Honda 2000 watt gen setup supplies 26 continuous amps.
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:24 PM   #39
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I purchased 2 Yamaha's because of the 4 year warranty. I believe that whichever flavor you prefer, Honda or Yamaha, they will almost always serve your needs if you maintain them properly. I have been very happy with mine on the few occasions that they have been used.
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:52 PM   #40
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I have not seen a kit from them for a dual gen setup meaning the end cost for 2 will be in the $540 range.
There are other kits out there placing the fuel pump on the tank side and feeds dual genny's.

DIY Yamaha gravity fed dual genny extended run fuel hose w/fuel filter, bulb pump, single/dual selection, and marine fuel quick connectors. Cost: $55 + $40 for the moeller marine 6 gallon tank with fuel gauge.

Total: $95

I haven't clipped the hose clamps and tidied it up yet ("why do today what you can put off until tomorrow", but works like a charm.

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