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Old 06-17-2015, 07:47 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by schybolt View Post
I have a 30 amp tt. What size gen do I need to run lights, TV, microwave and AC, all at the same time?
Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Minimum of 3000w.
How many btu's is the a/c?
Ummm.. 30amp TT. I don't think I would want to find out.

But.. microwave in watts? How much to get the magnetron to fire when you hit start? A/C btu's? Lights are LED? TV is 12volt or 110? Is the antenna booster running or are you using a satellite receiver? Sound through the TV or through the audio system? sub-woofer or sound bar? Is the reefer and/or WH cycling? Is the converter in a charge cycle?

See where I'm going with this? Too many variables.

With a 4000 watt Honda, rated is 3500watts and 29amps. You'll need around 3000w to kick the A/C over and will run around 1500-2000w for a 13.5btu unit. Hit the microwave (650watt).. now your cooking another 1000w. Up to 3000.. TV.. add on another 200w, satellite receiver another 250. Pile on lights and normal trailer power usage... Yes.. I know... lights and trailer appliances are on 12v... Coming from the converter which is drawing on the genny.

Bottom line, IMO, I wouldn't try it with anything less than a 4000watt and I wouldn't give you odds if you could get just the A/C, microwave, and normal "idle" power consumption throughout the rig running at the same time without tripping/blowing a fuse.

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Old 06-17-2015, 10:51 PM   #42
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
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As far as an extended stay tank goes, bought a 6 gal. marine tank /gauge, pluming both gens off same tank.....trick is to make sure the cap on gen. is vacuum tight. Instead of wasting stock vented caps, I got two off of Honda lawn mowers, seperated the outside from the inside, these caps have a different vent system by design, and used the inside part of cap that screws on.....drilled hole thru top of cap, used a bulk head fitting / 'o' rings to seal against cap, added a 3" stand pipe to part of fitting inside cap, and fuel stays at that level while running....tank on ground. Now wife doesn't need to re-fill during the day while I'm away tending to race car. Running with 1, from say, 7.00am till noon, then 2, till 10pm, we can go 3 days,2 nights and have about 1 gal left. Mine get used so often I don't drain till Nov. For venting, I just leave the 6 gal tank cap a little loose as that caps vent isn't big enough for both gens.

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Old 07-26-2015, 10:44 AM   #43
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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I primarily dry camp and currently own two Yamaha 2000's I run in parallel and they run great. However, I am going to sell and buy Hondas for the following reasons: (1) they have 30 amp breakers built in vs 20 amp on the yamahas, (2) you can elevate extended run tanks and run yamahas, but that has proven to be fickle; more so if you don't use larger diameter fuel lines. Hondas don't have that problem with their built in fuel pumps, and (3) you can run three Hondas in parallel. I have tried with the yamahas and they won't because their internal 20 amp breaker will pop. Three Hondas with their internal 30 amp breaker can be run in parallel.

Even if I wasn't interested in running 3, I have never blown a circuit breaker in the camper using two. I frequently when running a/c pop the Yamaha 20 amp breaker and have to go out and restart both units. frequently. I suspect (admittedly don't know) that a 30 amp breaker inside the Honda will minimize that particular issue. Going to miss the fuel shut off valve on the yamahas. FYI, the group (about 30 of us) I dry camp with use both brands. As far as the units breaking down, both brands are extremely reliable. Also you can't tell difference in noise level either.

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