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Old 03-10-2014, 10:34 PM   #21
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Love the power pole between the slides picture. Been there before with a tree and a power pole on a previous unit. On the PI and PD stuff, yep, your fortunate. I changed the converter first thing. I'm leaving main panel (WFCO) alone as that's just too much work, and it works fine. We're starting to change out the faucets one by one to residential ones. I find it amazing that you'll see stuff like you've found with higher end electronics, yet sometimes you'll get to something like a towel rack, and find it could've been a cheap easy thing for them to upgrade. Why I'll never know
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:32 PM   #22
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Second Generator

Not a trailer thing directly, but I added a second generator (alternator?) to my TV to ensure I will have plenty of power. This was done with OEM components so everything fit perfectly.

Here's a front view showing the new cable from the second battery to the new generator.
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Top view.
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Side view.
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I went with a new longer Gatorback belt. The idler pulley shield came from a junk yard and is too small. I'll look for a bigger one on my next trip.
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Belt routing with two generators.
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The electrical diagram to connect in the control wire. I soldered it inside the existing harness rather than buying a who new engine harness just to get a connector.
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The bracket diagram showing the needed bolts.
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This is the new 175 amp Mega fuse I needed. This fuse holder was replaced a commercial Mega fuse holder since I will be adding another fuse alongside it and the OEM holder does not have the clip attachments.
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I will be adding isolation relays and a house battery eventually. The house battery will provide for an inverter in the truck as well as powering several 12VDC loads that will be shifted from the start batteries. The trailer power will be via the second isolation relay so the trailer will be supplemented, but not drain the house battery unless I want/need to.
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:58 PM   #23
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Sweet!
Was there a reason you thought you would need the extra juice? Usually these settups are more for ambulance and snow plow packages.
You should have plenty of power to light it up like a peterbuilt show truck if you wanted!


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Old 03-15-2014, 05:03 PM   #24
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Sorry, I guess I should have asked what you were powering in the truck that needed that much power. Or is this a boondock type settup to keep from needing a generator?

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Old 03-15-2014, 05:15 PM   #25
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Besides the inverter/charger, the house battery system will be powering additional lights. The inverter will supply computers and WiiU/Xbox both on the road and parked. The ability to power toys and things anywhere is attractive. The generator is just the first step. Then I got distracted with a new trailer!
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:26 PM   #26
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Very understandable!! Have fun!!

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Old 03-22-2014, 03:05 PM   #27
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Yesterday was a maintenance and data collection day. I needed to measure to buy cable to modify our shore power system. I will be installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C and adding some additional shore power connections to the front part of the trailer. This involved removing an access panel in the basement and removing the fake fireplace to get behind the power panel. I think I have a plan for this mod, but need to think it through a little more. The fireplace takes up a lot of the space, but I should be able to fit the EMS in there once I rearrange the cables a bit.

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Before getting into the hole drilling for that mod, I needed to fix a gripe from out first camping trip -- the Level-Up system was not actually leveling the trailer. From the factory, the zero point they set was actually nose down by 0.8 degrees, and left side down by 0.3 degrees. That was enough to pool the eggs to one side of the pan and roll water bottles down an overhead cabinet. To fix it, I did a zero point calibration. It took about four minutes to do. The only tool required was a carpenter's level.

  • With the system OFF, enter the Zero Calibration Mode by pressing the FRONT button ten times, and then the REAR button ten times.
  • The Touchpad will start flashing, beep, and display "** ZERO POINT ** | * CALIBRATION *". This display alternates with "ENTER to set | Power to exit".
  • Use the extend/retract buttons to adjust the trailer to the desired mechanically level position.
  • After setting the new level position, press ENTER.
  • The Touchpad will display "Zero Point | Stability Check". This display alternates with "Please wait…"
  • The Touchpad will beep and display "Zero Point |Set Successfully".
This does not set a jack position, but rather a new set of values of what you consider to be level. Right now, the basement is the level reference. Ultimately, I will repeat the process using a galley location, if needed, so there are no more uneven eggs.

Next on the list was to look at the rear black tank dump valve. This valve has never sealed since we got the trailer last month. When I collected the drainage and did a flush, I got construction debris out: Styrofoam tank insulation, a crescent shaped piece of the tank wall, and other miscellaneous hard bits. I ordered a new dump valve since I suspect the installed one is damaged--it certainly does not shut. I'll replace it next weekend.

Lippert recommends regular jack rod preventive maintenance. If the jacks are down for extended periods, as they normally are, it is recommended to spray exposed leveling jack rods with a silicone lubricant every 7 days for protection. If your trailer is in a salty environment, it is recommended to spray the rods every 2 to 3 days. I sprayed them, but I will do research into some protective bellows.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:05 PM   #28
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Cool!
I'm looking at the hard wired progressive for my new 5er too.

You might be able to use a couple shock boots over your rods to keep the elements out- just an idea, don't know if they would be long enough or not.

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Old 03-23-2014, 08:06 AM   #29
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You might be able to use a couple shock boots over your rods to keep the elements out- just an idea, don't know if they would be long enough or not.
The land gear jacks have a 21" stroke and the rear jacks have a 15" stroke, so I think a shock boot would be too short. The rams are also much larger in diameter. While a boot/bellows will work, I am also considering just a Herculite shroud or drape which can be attached when needed. The primary thing I would like to avoid is dirt splashing and blown dust while leveled to minimize seal damage. Of course you always have to ask whether it is really a problem or am I thinking too hard?
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:30 AM   #30
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Yep I'm sure your over thinking it a little. I've had equipment and trucks sit out for months with exposed rods, with no problems. For dust, that is what the wiper seal is for. I have had ice on my rods and run them in and out without having an issue with the seals.
But if you live in a saltier atmosphere, you may have more issue with rust.
But I haven't seen anybody yet with any protection on thier landing gear, but maybe I just didn't see it!
Have fun!

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