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Old 09-25-2015, 11:24 AM   #31
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Thank you for all that you give back to the community. The knowledge/experience you have really helps out the new people (i.e. ME...).

Have a great day/weekend/camping season... :-)

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Old 09-25-2015, 01:03 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by stevejd235 View Post
Thank you for all that you give back to the community. The knowledge/experience you have really helps out the new people (i.e. ME...).

Have a great day/weekend/camping season... :-)
You know I love to help. I hope I do, at least. The weather is gettin' really good, so I hope you have time to get out there and have fun.


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Old 09-25-2015, 03:49 PM   #33
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OG & WW, i really appreciate the responses! and i cant help but think of the movie "RV" with robin williams when i go to deal with draining tanks and just hope i can avoid the spectacular mess involved with it lol
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Old 09-25-2015, 04:22 PM   #34
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WW, you need to write a booklet. You're a wealth of knowledge. I wish we had these forums when I started RVing 20 years ago and camping 25 years before that.

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Old 09-25-2015, 04:40 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by MotoCrazy808 View Post
OG & WW, i really appreciate the responses! and i cant help but think of the movie "RV" with robin williams when i go to deal with draining tanks and just hope i can avoid the spectacular mess involved with it lol

It sometimes is like that movie, but that's all part of the fun. I've learned that the worst trips camping make for the best stories and probably the more fond memories. We've had tires blow, the awning ripped off, nails in the tires, water heaters quit working, once I put ethanol in my diesel tank in SC not realizing it was ethanol (that's a whole other story).. All kinds of fun stuff. At least we can laugh about it now.

Oh.. One more thing. Take some anti bacterial soap and a few paper towels outside when you are dumping. Once I disconnect everything, I scrub down at the hose bibb. I tried the rubber gloves thing, it just wasn't working for me.
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:13 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
I would never use WD40 on slide seals or on any rubber. I have 303 for seals and rubber. I think pure silicon would be OK for slide seals, if 303 is not available... is even works on the finish.

Although I used a 3M professional yellow wax on mine. I get stubborn stains off (the fiberglass) with a fine cut compound, then wax it. Eagle makes a wax called Nano Wax that works very well on the finish and I don't think it would hurt the decals. Some petroleum base waxes are said to be harmful on the decals.

The other thing is keep it under cover, if you can do this it will keep it new many years longer. If kept outside a cover is a good idea, but it is a PITA to put on and take off as you can imagine and other's point out. If you store for months on end, get a cover, if not, I wouldn't bother. You will need to clean and wax it more often, is all.

Inspect the roof often. The Dicor sealant can have bubbles and can pull away from things it isnt' supposed to be. Look it over carefully a pin hole can ruin your fun and investment.

I know its generic, but you might want to read the owners manual. It has tips for how to do a lot of things. There is good information on the site, but sometimes there are too many opinions.

Fresh water tank: needs an occassional sanitizing... I fill the tank... add plain ole bleach (about a cup to the full tank). How I do it is add bleach to the empty hose... hook it up to a faucet and the trailer FW fill without getting it all over, then turn on the water and fill the tank until it overflows, turn off the city water and turn on the RV water pump and run water from every cold tap until you can smell bleach (or feel the slickness to the hands it causes) I don't run it into the hot water tank.. only cold, including the outside "shower".

Turn off the pump and let it sit a day at least.

Drain the tank - open taps while it is draining as well.

Now close the faucets; fill the FW tank with clean fresh water. Turn on the pump and run several gallons through each faucet, which flushes out the bleach. I actually leave 15 to 20 in the tank.

Grey tanks: should never need flushing or chemicals IMO.

Black tank: is a story unto itself. I never let the black tank sit empty. Keep 10 - 15 gallons in it.

Even if are at a campground and have full hookup, don't leave the black tank dump valve open... keep it close and dump when full. Or before leaving the park. If you leave it open, you will have a huge lump that will thicken and harden and be difficult if not impossible to clear out. No nice way to say it.

Chemicals: I've used all kinds of chemicals / products over the years. I use a product that uses a microbal action to keep the tank clean. I think RV RidX works well, too. Go by the directions for use.

Paper: you might need to teach people to not use so much paper. And, use RV paper, not what you use at home. It breaks down better and might not mess up your level indicators as much.

How to manage: So, with 5 - 10 gals in the tank, add your tank chemical.

When it needs dumping, hook up and dump till empty. I have a Rhino hose with a clear 45 that lets me see what's flowing. It seems gross at first, but that kind of thing doesn't bother me. Make sure the nasty end of the hose is well secured before operating the valve. Don't ask me how I know.

If I have full hookups and have had the grey dump valves open the whole time (you can do this), a day before I know the black is going to need to be dumped, I close the grey valves.

After dumping the black, and it will take a while to drain completely, I close the black valve and open both grey valves, this flushs out the really bad stuff from the hose and saves a little water on the flush I am about to do.

Close the grey valves. And open the black valve, if not alreay open.

Now, I'm kind of OCD and don't use the white hose for flushing, I have a crappy (no pun intended) green hose for that purpose.

I connect to city water and to the flush hose attachment, and flush the With city water hook up and flush the black tank.

With the black tank dump valve still open, run water. Let it run for several minutes, if you can. I differ from some in that I close the black tank dump valve while flushing and let the tank nearly fill.


With the flush water running and ALL valves closed go inside and watch the monitor panel for the black tank... when the full light comes on, I run like hell to the outside and turn off the water, of course with two people would be to easier.

Then open the black tank dump valve and let it drain. Watch the water in your new clear 45 degree coupling and see that it is very nasty. I repeat this until it isn't so nasty... or actually quite clear. Close the dump valve and repeat until you are happy that it is clean enough.

Close the dump valve and run 10 gals (MOL) into the black tank and add your chemicals again. Ready for next time.

If I haven't camped for awhile, I might add more chemical to the tank when I do.

One thing I never do is have grey valves and black valves open at the same time; black water could get into a grey tank and be an issue, IMO.

Grey Tanks: Try not to flush food particles down the kitchen sink. I wipe off into the trash excess stuff, or use paper plates, or use the sink at the campground. Food in the grey tank could cause odors and problems.

A lot of people act like they are at home, the way the use water and the other things, you have to get into a different mindset.

I like to see how long I can make fresh water last.... less water... less dumping.

If you don't already have one, get a good sewer hose and a clear 45 degree for monitoring the flushing process.

So, that is my boring rendition.

Well done WW! You continue to amaze me.

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