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Old 07-27-2014, 01:42 PM   #1
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24HFS wiring diagram

I am sure this is going to be a shot in the dark, but I figured I'd give it a shot. Does anyone have a wiring diagram / schematic for a 2014/2015 XLR 24HFS? I want to add a few 12v power plugs (cigarette light plugs) to my trailer for using small inverters here and there and for using small 12v electronics (phone chargers, etc). I am thinking I can just tie into the LED wiring as it is roughly 12-14awg wiring and the LED's aren't pulling much at all. However, I don't want to just make any assumptions and end up overloading the circuit. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2014, 01:55 PM   #2
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diagram / schematic for a 2014/2015 XLR 24HFS
No such animal exists!

A lot of us here would like to have one.

I just pack the car charger for my phone if I need to charge when not driving the trailers radio has a USB plug.

Do you plan on camping without 110 power?
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:07 PM   #3
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I am planning to do the same thing on adding 12 power plugs but the way I am going to do it is start at the battery for each 12volt plug with a fuse and run #14 wire to each plug the only safe way I can figure to do it and not over load anything. At some point I plan to get a larger converter that has more 120volt ac power or amps and more 12 volt dc amperage. Will also add a second battery then. But will then also leave the individual 12 volt plugs from the battery that way the 12 plugs will still work as long as the batterys are charged up.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:14 PM   #4
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Not very often, but we did just do it last night. I'm going to do some testing with my DMM and see what I come up with. From what I can tell just going off the fuse labels, the LED lights appear to be on their own circuits with way more fuse than they need. The fuses do seem to be properly rated for the wire size though. As long as I don't find any hidden circuits on the fuses, I will test the amperage draw on each circuit and depending on what I find, just add a few 12v plugs in a few select areas. The key areas are in the A/V cabinet (cabinet with power outlet and cable connection for 'living area' TV), under the cabinet on the other side of the camper, and one in the front 'master bedroom'. Each of those appear that they will be on separate circuits so I shouldn't run into any issues. But it would be nicer with a schematic... lol.

The phones can easily be done through the radio's USB port but I would definitely like to be able to run the TV when only running on the batteries. I purposely got an LED tv to help keep the draw to a minimum. I should be able to run the one TV plenty once I get the batteries wired together.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:15 PM   #5
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I am planning to do the same thing on adding 12 power plugs but the way I am going to do it is start at the battery for each 12volt plug with a fuse and run #14 wire to each plug the only safe way I can figure to do it and not over load anything. At some point I plan to get a larger converter that has more 120volt ac power or amps and more 12 volt dc amperage. Will also add a second battery then. But will then also leave the individual 12 volt plugs from the battery that way the 12 plugs will still work as long as the batterys are charged up.
I thought about that as well, but with the trailer being so new, I REALLY don't want to be ripping into it to run wires... lol.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:25 PM   #6
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I just got my new one in Febuary so I know what you are talking about. But I have had lots of experience with 12 and 24 volt dc circuits so for me the only way to go is for the circuits from the battery. Have ran from the converter and no doubt it will work just adding to existing circuits I want to make sure thay can take the amperage because I might want to plug something beside a cell phone.
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:18 PM   #7
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Too bad that schematics aren't available. Exactly where they run the wires isn't clear, but what fuse does what, seems fairly straight forward or can be figured out.

I think you'll find that most of the 12vdc wiring (behind the fuses) is 14ga (you mentioned the LED wiring); it would be easy enough to put a lighter in the panel next to the interior / exterior switch plate.

Wiring on some items (the radio, for instance) they double up the 14ga. The things is how many amps your small inverters use.

Why not get a big-enough inverter (???) a pure sine-wave model for electronics... and home-run 110vac wiring from there. Not sure if you saw my pic, but I installed a small inverter in the gen compartment. It isn't pure sine-wave, so I know I will replace or augment. I have barely used it and already want to change it.

I am in the process of running an AC line from the inverter to the TV area, to the pantry area (mine is the 29HFS) and another to the toy garage... and mark them well... thought of using orange receptacles. As far as 12V, I ran off the battery via the generator hot led, fused at 20Amp... to an "marine" rated outside cigar lighter for my sat receiver, but have considered wiring in some more, but don't have anything else to power that way. I use the radio's USB to charge phones and Kindle.

I am in the process of making some insulation improvements and at the same time mapping everything under the floor. There is a lot of stuff in the way and much care is needed to not damage anything.
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:44 PM   #8
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From what I have found a good Sine Wave inverter would run almost as much as a generator. And for the few times I'll be camping without electric hook up, it's not worth the expense. I would be careful about the radio wiring. I thought the exact same thing when I installed my new Alpine radio with the in-dash KTP-445U mini-amplifier. I used one lead for the radio and one for the amp when I originally connected it but did not get any power to the amp. I have a feeling that the line is not doubled up, but instead continues on to something else (possibly the lights? Won't know for sure until I do some testing).
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:45 PM   #9
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From what I have found a good Sine Wave inverter would run almost as much as a generator. And for the few times I'll be camping without electric hook up, it's not worth the expense. I would be careful about the radio wiring. I thought the exact same thing when I installed my new Alpine radio with the in-dash KTP-445U mini-amplifier. I used one lead for the radio and one for the amp when I originally connected it but did not get any power to the amp. I have a feeling that the line is not doubled up, but instead continues on to something else (possibly the lights? Won't know for sure until I do some testing).
I love this site... we can all learn from each other. When I first installed the amp... I didn't wire the amp and radio correctly. I initially forgot the radio has the ability to turn the amp on and off, as it is turned on. FR (I assume) cut the lead very very short, but I was able to get to it and now the amp is on only when the radio is on. It seems to me it is the power antenna lead on the radio... maybe the blue one? I actually didn't think about it until I found the amp very warm and the radio wasn't on; then I got it right.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:52 PM   #10
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Yup, it's blue with a white stripe. It's the amp turn on (remote) wire off the back of the radio. I opted to bridge the rear speakers to maximize the output of the amp (90 watts per channel instead of just 45). Then the interior speakers are wired directly to the radio. I still have full control of inside vs outside speakers but the outside speakers scream when you turn it up.
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