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Old 06-24-2015, 10:09 PM   #11
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Ok, good info guys, thanks. I'm a tower crane operator and I got tired of staying in hotels so it's only gonna be me in the 29 90% of the time. And, they usually only use towers in large cities so I should be able to have a power supply in most cases. That being said I primarily work long hours 60-90 a week in the Southwest or California. So it would be rare for me to have more than the ac, fridge and the tv going. Money isn't a huge issue but If I can completely skip the gen and buy a solar setup that would be preferred. Wherever I'm at I'll probably be there 6 mos or more at a time so setup break down isn't a big deal. The other %10 will be with my 2 small kids for a weekend trip somewhere again, probably in the SW somewhere. So, any advice would be appreciated!
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:40 PM   #12
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Battery / solar setup might be a good way go - I but I would still have a Honda 2000ui just sitting around just in case (cheap backup plan). I just put 12v 4 deep cycle in a box to a 4000w inverter tied to a 12v relay that ties into generator auto switching switch - still working on solar part - should run everything but haven't tried AC yet and don't know how long AC would run - I think all together I have 560 amp hours of juice.


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Old 06-26-2015, 06:17 AM   #13
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Unless you are paying for the electric or plan on boondocking what would be the extra money be justified for.

I do a similar trade and would just have generator to run ac. Which I don't because of weight and room. Don't know much about solar. Just wonder if it would pay for itself.

If doing cause of your personal choice of being green it is your camper and I would do what I want to.


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Old 06-26-2015, 09:23 AM   #14
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It sounds like 10% of the time, the OP would be boondocking in effect; 90% of the time power would be provided. So, based on the probability that AC will be needed at night, considering where he will be parked; a generator is the logical and economical choice, IMO. Whether to mount in on the unit or leave it portable is about the only choice and of course, which one to buy. If I were him, remote control would be a requirement and it would no less than 4000 watts; 5500w if a second AC unit is in his immediate future.

I can't stand the noise and vibration with it on the camper others find this to be no problem. If no problem, the tongue of these Hyperlites can accomodate about any generator within reason. I would want a cover or a box to protect it.

Solar, batteries, and an inverter that will power an AC unit isn't economical (IMO) but without the need for AC, solar is a good choice, especially for those that boondock in areas with plenty of sun, and those who play outside all day; to return to camper with full batteries. It is not only "green"; but it can be more convenient and less expensive to operate (after the inital "hit" to the wallet) and don't forget QUIET. Don't forget the WH and frige switch to propane lessens the battery requirement. Many parks don't allow a generator at night, so solar is a viable option there, as well. There are so many options it boggles the mind, the key is to have the system that works for you and in my case it has to be cost justified.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:23 AM   #15
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Going to solar / battery is mainly my choice to be a good camping neighbor - I often camp where AC is not available and I like my satellite TV, ect at night - plus don't like the noisy generator - wether it's the installed onboard very noisy onen gen. Or my very quit Honda just don't think it's right for other campers to have to listen to my generator while their out enjoying Mother Nature..........

Honda - Yamaha - powerhouse - = $800- 2000 depending on size realistic about $1000

Solar / battery realistic $ 1500- 3000 cost go up on how fast you recovery time is - and if you have to run a AC from battery power - AC and microwave draw done batteries fast - everything else w 4 12v deep cycles you can last about 6- 7 day without charging




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Old 06-26-2015, 09:41 AM   #16
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PH, your personal mailbox has too many messages. I can't send a message to you (sorry OP for the highjack)

BTW, I am now a fan of adding "start assist" kit (some call a "hard start kit"). Starting draws less current and lasts a fraction of the time, besides less flicker of the lights. A single eu2000i Honda can start it (I have the 13.5K Brisk Air II). Still it is at "full tilt" and I wouldn't run AC for long on it. Before the kit, it woudn't even try. The second 2000 is no problem. Even on two the lights dimmed down for over a second, now barely a flicker and it lasts for about a blink of the eye. I would buy the Dometic part rather than the cheap substitute (what I did)... having to extend the leads and mount outside the nice little box Dometic made for the capacitors. The manufacturer said it only would take "seconds to install"... how many seconds in an hour?

Theoretically the kit should make the unit last longer. It is a good option if any AC unit caused lights to flicker, even in the home. I can explain how this works electrically, if you have a few hours
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:15 AM   #17
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OT WW message box fixed


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Old 06-26-2015, 01:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
The manufacturer said it only would take "seconds to install"... how many seconds in an hour?
3600. You are a creature of precision, WW.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:03 PM   #19
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3600. You are a creature of precision, WW.
Heck they were right, it only took me seconds!
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