29hfs bed

[newtorv22]

So, I'm looking at a 2016 29hfs. I have a few questions though as I am brand new to rving.
1: The bed is 74" and I'm 73" tall. I'm thinking i'll remove the wards build some to supports and turn the bed sideways. Has anyone done or seen this done?
2: The unit doesn't have the gen prep package. Can you add that later or how difficult is it to add a gen later?
3: it has the max clearance Dinette in the garage. What is the clearance height and can I run them individually or remove 1 so I can leave my motorcycle in and still use it?
Sorry if the answers are already posted I looked and couldn't find any.
Thanks in advance,

[Play Harder]

Generator prep depends on how handy you are ----- requires a relay to switch from generator to AC to switch between the 2 sources -- about 100$ on up - plus some 30amp isolators big gauge copper wire - remote starter ect. Not too hard but will take some time to install....

You can remove top bed in. Walk thru and then on 2016 models the benches for the dinette will fold flat against the wall


Rotating front bedroom mattress I don't know about - have to have someone else answer


Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

[DennisTD]

The other part of gen prep is fuel. The gen prep package includes the fuel tank/station plus fuel lines to the gen compartment.

[Play Harder]

Forgot about the gas tanks or you could just put a tank on the front nose easy enough personally If i did it again I would just go with electric start Honda Yamaha etc. the Onan very noisy compared to the Honda Yamaha power house ect

[WolfWhistle]

1. The reason I picked the 29, was the bed like it is. If I thought sideways would work, I would have bought the 27 and saved a few hundred pounds and a couple thousand ($$). Of course, the toy bay is a foot longer on the 29.

I just bought a mattress from WallyM that is 75" ($289 foam.... wonderful!)... slightly longer than what was there, but not a factor. The front bed could be turned with a major suport redo, but consider the side cabinets are in the way, as well as how much higher the bed will be off the floor.

2. Reproducing the factory generator prep will be a major pain. I don't know how you could get the generator box in retro and then there's the fuel tank with welded iron suports. I would suggest you consider a portable (or two in the case of Honda 2000i with companion), which is considerably less expensive and can easily be mounted or transported on the tongue or the bed of the truck. Of course the Onan could be mounted on the tongue, but you owe it to yourself to experience the Onan running and think about the noise; it might be okay for you. A generator stting on the ground... you can barely hear it inside. For many the portable units gives you home use as well. Like PH said, you will need a automatic transfer switch (TS) wired in no matter what you do for a generator. With the gen prep, the TS is under the bed, in back of the genny box. So, the AC feed from the utility side (shore power) runs to the switch; as does the cable from the generator; then another back to the distribution panel. These are all 10-2 awg on mine. You will need to drop the belly pan (coroplast) for access to below the floor. Also, like DennisTD said, the gen prep also has the fuel station tank for fuel. I can't imagine adding the tank and fuel station in a retro fit. I've done some crazy mods, but that would exceed my skill set. I would never weld on the frame of a new trailer.

3. x2 on PHs comment. He has this set up, mine is the one bed option and it lifts to within 6 inches (MOL) of the ceiling. The happiJack is ready for the second bed or dinette, which isn't on my radar... with my Triumph inside and without tailbox, I can lower the bed to about 3 feet off the floor. Little ones and old ones (like me) would need a ladder or stool to get in and out of the bed. I've only taken a nap on it and until upgrade mattress, I wouldn't consider sleeping on it.

[newtorv22]

Thanks for all the help guys. I agree I definitely like the bedroom layout and tv placement on the 29 better I just don't know if I'll have enough room to stretch out and be comfortable. As far as the generator it sounds like it's easier to just run a portable genny. For as often as I plan on going without power my gas would probably go bad anyway. As far as the dinette I think with some trial and error be able to figure something out or I'll just rub a bald spot into my head. Thanks again

[Play Harder]

WW alway has the best explanations 😎😎😎👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

I took the bed out in garage and just have dinette in there now - huge difference- you will definitely be banging your head and also it blocks the lighting with the bed up

[WolfWhistle]

Are youse guys saying when you sit at the table (dinette, pass through, one each) you hit your head on the bed? I wonder if there is anyway to make a pass-through dinette out of popsicle sticks and recycled bubble pack?

My wife told me to stop acting silly... I told her, "its no act!"

[newtorv22]

What about using an external gen? Like I said, I've never used an rv before. Is it as simple as buying a gen and plugging it into the power cord? Do you guys like the on board gen or is it too noisy? I Plan on spending %90 in a rv park or somewhere that has power hook ups.

[WolfWhistle]

The first question that you should be asking yourself is, do you need a generator.

You know that even with commercial power, you don't have unlimited capacity, such as you would at home(?), even that has some limits.

Your question, if you can simply plug the cord into a generator, yes.

Can you just run it from the side to the genny, yes?

Is a generator noisy,yes! Are they worse on board, yes, yes. If you (and anyone else involved) can sleep through a nuclear explosion, this won't be an issue.

I can't address how good or bad an onboard genny is, I don't have one, but I"ve heard one and I'm not interested.

There are so many variables, what you do about 10% of your stays is the question... and a big one, if you MUST have air conditioning.

You realize that you can do a lot with battery (batteries) and gas only if you have plenty of both. You will have water... hot water... fridge... stove... 12 volt lights. Even TV if you have a 12 volt-er. You will have a limit of how long you can run "off the grid"... how much water, how many "amp hours" of battery. Then consider if a small inverter would work for you. But, you have to replentish the amps you use each day; either with from the tow vehicle while driving, solar, generator or commercial power. How economical you all can be with these resources is a huge factor.

Another solution is a battery bank and a big inverter, such as Play Harder just did.

It takes about 2400 watts of generator to run one air conditioner, but only that and not much more. If you want to run the whole camper, and not think much about what you use, you need 4000 watts (or about 3600 watts continous).

Only you can predict how you will use your unit and if you really need one. I normally use mine more in winter, so a single eu2000i is all I normally need. If I was heading for death valley, I would want 5500 watts. Cause its going to take two air conditioners.

Also keep in mind, many parks, especially national parks don't allow generators during certain hours. If it is hot, you will sweat.

Like I said before, Play Harder has recently added a huge inverter and 4 batteries (maybe solar as well?) so he can run the trailer without running a genny at all. I can't speak for him and I still am anxious to hear exactly how he did it and with PICTURES. This option has substantial advantages especially for boondockers (camp without water and power usually in wilderness areas)... plus its very "green".

[newtorv22]

Ok, good info guys, thanks. I'm a tower crane operator and I got tired of staying in hotels so it's only gonna be me in the 29 90% of the time. And, they usually only use towers in large cities so I should be able to have a power supply in most cases. That being said I primarily work long hours 60-90 a week in the Southwest or California. So it would be rare for me to have more than the ac, fridge and the tv going. Money isn't a huge issue but If I can completely skip the gen and buy a solar setup that would be preferred. Wherever I'm at I'll probably be there 6 mos or more at a time so setup break down isn't a big deal. The other %10 will be with my 2 small kids for a weekend trip somewhere again, probably in the SW somewhere. So, any advice would be appreciated!

[Play Harder]

Battery / solar setup might be a good way go - I but I would still have a Honda 2000ui just sitting around just in case (cheap backup plan). I just put 12v 4 deep cycle in a box to a 4000w inverter tied to a 12v relay that ties into generator auto switching switch - still working on solar part - should run everything but haven't tried AC yet and don't know how long AC would run - I think all together I have 560 amp hours of juice.


Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

[arpipeliner]

Unless you are paying for the electric or plan on boondocking what would be the extra money be justified for.

I do a similar trade and would just have generator to run ac. Which I don't because of weight and room. Don't know much about solar. Just wonder if it would pay for itself.

If doing cause of your personal choice of being green it is your camper and I would do what I want to.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[WolfWhistle]

It sounds like 10% of the time, the OP would be boondocking in effect; 90% of the time power would be provided. So, based on the probability that AC will be needed at night, considering where he will be parked; a generator is the logical and economical choice, IMO. Whether to mount in on the unit or leave it portable is about the only choice and of course, which one to buy. If I were him, remote control would be a requirement and it would no less than 4000 watts; 5500w if a second AC unit is in his immediate future.

I can't stand the noise and vibration with it on the camper others find this to be no problem. If no problem, the tongue of these Hyperlites can accomodate about any generator within reason. I would want a cover or a box to protect it.

Solar, batteries, and an inverter that will power an AC unit isn't economical (IMO) but without the need for AC, solar is a good choice, especially for those that boondock in areas with plenty of sun, and those who play outside all day; to return to camper with full batteries. It is not only "green"; but it can be more convenient and less expensive to operate (after the inital "hit" to the wallet) and don't forget QUIET. Don't forget the WH and frige switch to propane lessens the battery requirement. Many parks don't allow a generator at night, so solar is a viable option there, as well. There are so many options it boggles the mind, the key is to have the system that works for you and in my case it has to be cost justified.

[Play Harder]

Going to solar / battery is mainly my choice to be a good camping neighbor - I often camp where AC is not available and I like my satellite TV, ect at night - plus don't like the noisy generator - wether it's the installed onboard very noisy onen gen. Or my very quit Honda just don't think it's right for other campers to have to listen to my generator while their out enjoying Mother Nature..........

Honda - Yamaha - powerhouse - = $800- 2000 depending on size realistic about $1000

Solar / battery realistic $ 1500- 3000 cost go up on how fast you recovery time is - and if you have to run a AC from battery power - AC and microwave draw done batteries fast - everything else w 4 12v deep cycles you can last about 6- 7 day without charging




Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

[WolfWhistle]

PH, your personal mailbox has too many messages. I can't send a message to you (sorry OP for the highjack)

BTW, I am now a fan of adding "start assist" kit (some call a "hard start kit"). Starting draws less current and lasts a fraction of the time, besides less flicker of the lights. A single eu2000i Honda can start it (I have the 13.5K Brisk Air II). Still it is at "full tilt" and I wouldn't run AC for long on it. Before the kit, it woudn't even try. The second 2000 is no problem. Even on two the lights dimmed down for over a second, now barely a flicker and it lasts for about a blink of the eye. I would buy the Dometic part rather than the cheap substitute (what I did)... having to extend the leads and mount outside the nice little box Dometic made for the capacitors. The manufacturer said it only would take "seconds to install"... how many seconds in an hour?

Theoretically the kit should make the unit last longer. It is a good option if any AC unit caused lights to flicker, even in the home. I can explain how this works electrically, if you have a few hours

[Play Harder]

OT WW message box fixed


Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

[Taranwanderer]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

The manufacturer said it only would take "seconds to install"... how many seconds in an hour?

3600. You are a creature of precision, WW.

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by Taranwanderer

3600. You are a creature of precision, WW.

Heck they were right, it only took me seconds!