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Old 09-26-2015, 10:45 PM   #1
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30 amp service.

I have a 2014 29 hfs, I am not thrilled with having to use propane to heat the water heater all the time instead of electric because it keeps kicking the main breaker when the AC is on. This should have been a 50 amp service to begin with. Is there any reason the AC or water heater would be pulling too much power when used together?
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Old 09-26-2015, 10:59 PM   #2
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Maybe WW will chime in on what supercharger kit to get for your AC unit - basically a big capacitor that eases startup draw from AC when turning on
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Old 09-26-2015, 11:03 PM   #3
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You need one of these to ease your woes:

Supco SPP6, Relay Start Capacitor 120-288V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FM8X3Q..._PW1bwbA7S2M8K

Or, just run the WH on propane. Doesn't use that much.
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Old 09-26-2015, 11:22 PM   #4
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Or get a 30-50 pigtail and plug into the 50 amp sites...
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Old 09-27-2015, 06:48 AM   #5
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or re-wire your water heater so it is on it's own 15 amp power supply at the post. So you would have your normal 30 amp supply cord connected and then a second 15 amp power cord connected for water heater. This will remove about 11 amps from the 30 amp supply......
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:25 AM   #6
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A starting air conditioner can pull 18 amps (more if its a 15K) and then stabilize at about 11-12 amps (again more if it's a 15K) at 120 volts.

At some campgrounds the voltage is not 120 volts. This causes a starting problem as the compressor needs a certain number of watts (power) to start moving. Since power = volts times amps, if the voltage is not there, the compressor "makes up for it" by pulling more amps.

This can damage your compressor's windings over time. Since the voltage your camper "sees" is load dependant, running close to your camper's maximum in campgrounds with poor delivery wiring can cause your campsite to see lower voltage than your neighbor.

This is why if your air conditioner seems to struggle to start or your main (or AC) breaker opens when the compressor kicks in you should reduce the load on your camper.

In hot sticky weather, it is always a good idea to run the hot water heater and the fridge on Propane. You will get the added benefit of faster hot water recovery and a colder beer since propane is a far more efficient heat source than electric.

If you need to reduce it further, you can add a start DELAY relay to the fan (which is also an inductive load like the compressor) so that the compressor will start running a second or two before the fan motor starts when the thermostat calls for cold air.

ICM Relay,Time Delay - Cooling Equipment Relays - 4E233|ICM102 - Grainger Industrial Supply
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laurajean View Post
I have a 2014 29 hfs, I am not thrilled with having to use propane to heat the water heater all the time instead of electric because it keeps kicking the main breaker when the AC is on. This should have been a 50 amp service to begin with. Is there any reason the AC or water heater would be pulling too much power when used together?
I have never popped my 30 amp breaker and I run my water heater / Air Cond 15000 btu all the time with also the refer on. It could be as simple as just a weak breaker. If you can get an D/C amp probe then you could measure your amp draw at the 30 amp breaker. The only 30 amp I have popped was at the pedestal only, and that was because it was weak. Switched over to the 50 amp breaker with a pig tail and never tripped again. I attached what amps each unit should pull at FLA. Also check that the lugs are tight at the breakers.
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:54 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by mele View Post
Or get a 30-50 pigtail and plug into the 50 amp sites...
still only have 30 amps. Now you will just trip the inside breaker instead of the outside one, which is more likely to be aged and weak.
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Old 09-27-2015, 08:00 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
I have never popped my 30 amp breaker and I run my water heater / Air Cond 15000 btu all the time with also the refer on. It could be as simple as just a weak breaker. If you can get an D/C amp probe then you could measure your amp draw at the 30 amp breaker. The only 30 amp I have popped was at the pedestal only, and that was because it was weak. Switched over to the 50 amp breaker with a pig tail and never tripped again. I attached what amps each unit should pull at FLA. Also check that the lugs are tight at the breakers.
This scenario does not verify the 30 amp breaker was "weak".
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Old 09-27-2015, 08:07 AM   #10
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This scenario does not verify the 30 amp breaker was "weak".
sure it does, never tripped the breaker in my panel only on the pole. once switched over it never popped my panel breaker. So it was not pulling to many amps because even on 50 amp breaker my main breaker never tripped. So it wasn't my unit it was the pole breaker. 50 amp outlets are used a lot less then 30 amp in a CG. I have a 30 amp at home and still run the same thing and never tripped the panel yet.
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