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Old 05-17-2015, 06:31 PM   #21
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True. If you look at my picture that battery box bracket is what really stopped it from moving forward.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:42 PM   #22
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Here is a pic of my trailer frame after the 2" welds were done. The brackets had walked forward a 1/2" over time. They will not move again. I would recommend the welds to everyone.
Attachment 77234
unit will be parked for four months now that i'm in west yellowstone . living in it but won't be towing it till fall . then on my way back to Co or if my son comes out for a visit i'll have him bring my mig welder it's small enough to haul along and I should have just brought it with me .
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:44 PM   #23
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That sounds like the perfect plan since, you know your brackets are perfectly placed right now
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:45 AM   #24
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I don't have the Andersen, but why, I wonder, if a couple of SDST metal screws through bracket / into frame would work?
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:57 AM   #25
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I don't have the Andersen, but why, I wonder, if a couple of SDST metal screws through bracket / into frame would work?
That is probably a choice an owner could make. There are set screws that help keep the brackets in place that come with the hitch. Those seemed to have just indented a little path in my frame. There is one option to drill the set screw into the trailer frame. After seeing how mine had moved, I feel much more comfortable with the other option of small welds.
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:35 AM   #26
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On my old trailer I was getting some creaking noise that was associated with the condition of the ball chamber at the A frame nose. I bought a can of "SLIP" and sprayed it up into the ball chamber. It dries overnight and adds a dry lithium coating such that it removes ball contact friction. Find "SLIP" on Amazon.
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Old 06-15-2015, 01:32 PM   #27
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On my old trailer I was getting some creaking noise that was associated with the condition of the ball chamber at the A frame nose. I bought a can of "SLIP" and sprayed it up into the ball chamber. It dries overnight and adds a dry lithium coating such that it removes ball contact friction. Find "SLIP" on Amazon.
It is my understanding from the manual that NO lubricant should be on the ball or coupler opening for an Andersen, as that would negate your anti-sway. I do lubricate the moving parts of the coupler, but not the ball chamber.

OP:
Back to the original issue of "creaking real bad", did Andersen give you a real reason they thought this was happening?

We are just back from our Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Custer SP, trip. I also had some severe creaking from the Andersen hitch when we were leaving Yellowstone. I had left the triangle attached to the trailer while we were there. Rain had splattered dirt up onto the triangle. We wiped out inside of the ring and the bottom of the ball attachment with a towel because it was pretty dirty. No more squeak. I am pretty sure it was just the dirt.

I do also lubricate the 1/2" pin that secures the triangle.
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:24 PM   #28
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Must have got mine tight enough didn't move a bit
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Old 06-16-2015, 09:40 PM   #29
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Must have got mine tight enough didn't move a bit
I would wait a little while before you make that statement. . . I though you only had this hitch for about a month? Wait till next year and check again.
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:24 PM   #30
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Torqued it up good and can't move more than 1/2 screws and plate from old hitch still there
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