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Old 02-14-2015, 12:09 PM   #11
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Wolfwhislte

Do you know if the grey fresh tanks are the same as far as material ? if so and it sits the same height as the FW tank . then i can use it instead of buying new just plumb it into the FW tanks so i can draw water from both equally
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Old 02-14-2015, 02:33 PM   #12
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those bladders are nice but won't work for me . .does anyone know the lay out of the water tanks on the 29 xlr ? I have found a place that has the tanks from 5 to over a 100 . i think an extra 20 would be nice not expensive about $100.. they will put inlets and out lets where you want them and the sizes you want . making brackets for under the unit next to existing FW tanks should not be a big deal or i can locate in another area to help with weight distribution . If I can find one the same height and tee into the out let before the pump and have them add a vent fitting to the top and pipe that to the existing vent on the FW tanks it will fill with the same FW fill and the water will equalize in both tanks . Then as i use them the water will be used from both tanks equalizing weight . Guess I'll have to wait till i get my unit and get in under there to look at it while i prep and add insulation and fill gaps . I'm all into making it my own and modifying to suit my needs . Carry water in separate containers just won't do , as my truck bed will be in use carry my tools
Search the XLR forum for "what lies beneath" and find a post of mine. It might be helpful to you. Ignore the 1x2 strips that I added. It is in .docx format and I also posted pictures (.png). I have it in Excel as well.

Did you come to an understanding that TW reduces axle weight? Your units 4400# axles (I assume 4400#) are not over-loaded at full load. The math is thus: 6759+3014=9773, 9773-1032=8741; 8741/2=4370.5 BUT, what many forget to do is take away all the unsprung weight (the weight of the axles themselves, hubs, brakes, wheels and tires) the load on a single axle is really closer to 4200#... or less. All weight below the springs are carried by the ground / pavement and not by the axles. Make sense?

To the task at hand, there is space enough for another FW tank between the exising foward GW tank and the axles; plenty of space. I would fabricate brackets and grade 8 bolt them to the frame, rather than weld on it. The GW tank(s) are slightly over 6" high, 19" wide and 55" long and would work nicely for a small FW tank.
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Old 02-14-2015, 02:45 PM   #13
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Wolfwhislte

Do you know if the grey fresh tanks are the same as far as material ? if so and it sits the same height as the FW tank . then i can use it instead of buying new just plumb it into the FW tanks so i can draw water from both equally
The tanks (FW and GW, but not BW) seem to be made of the same material, polyethelene, I think. And are white.

The exising FW tank hangs lower in its b brackets, so the bottoms are not at the same level. I would think they would be nearly the same for the top.

I am not sure how I would link the two together, but maybe a hose at the bottom and one at the top, tank to tank, would make them act like one as far as pumping out of and filling into.

As far as plumbing the kitchen sink. I wouldn't plumb to the back GW tank, I would plumb into the black tank. If you watch water usage the kitchen sink produces relatively little waste water. You will have to remove and block off the 1-1/2-inch drain from the kitchen GW tank to the waste water street connections.
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:56 PM   #14
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Wolfwhistle

Thanks for the responses . I'm all about the weight and axle weights . you just have to wonder why use axles that are at there rating max . when loaded
Either way I'm going to be loaded to my max rating . 99%of the time . I will up grade to E rated tires soon . and axle maintenance will be done at least twice a yr . that's just the way i roll .lol

now if the height of the gray water tank is flush with the Fw tank it can be done . i just need to see it to figure out the best way . or install a new AUX tank. but it must be no higher or lower then the exisiting FW tank and alloow the water to find it's level between the two tanks . the plumbing is not an issue been a plumber and heating / ac tech for 20 yrs .

I'll try and look up the post you speak of
Thanks for the info and help
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:11 PM   #15
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once i get the unit back home i will be accessing the entire under belly , to insulate , re-plumb to my specs secure and fix all the minor things that they seem to like to skip in manufacturing . seal holes and run extra wire and outlet dc and ac where i may need more . ETC . i see at least two weeks of work doing this and loading the truck and trailer before i hit the road . then it's where ever the winds blow
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:47 PM   #16
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At the risk of other members accusing me of beating a dead horse, and it is very very dead, I have to say:

Northstar, can you explain to me what is the difference when a toy hauler builder, builds a trailer to carry a certain maximum weight and when that weight limit is reached, the axles, and maybe tires and wheels also reach their engineered load limit... or if a major truck manufacturer, does the very same thing?

For instance, my 2012 Ram 2500 CTD's maximum payload is 2707#, with front axle rated at 5000# and rear axle at 6000#... tires at 3000#. If I was to load it to the limit, guess what(?), the axles each reach their limit and and at least two tires are slightly over their max rating. I am not upset by this. Before buying my truck, I did my homework, weighed (poor choice of a word) my options, and figured that the 2500 was what I needed.

Would you recommend I sue Chrysler for building a truck that when the maximum payload is reached the axles and tires reach their's as well? At least, I own the vehicle that I am proposing to sue over.

Can you explain to me, why we should expect any manufacturer to install components, such as axles or tires, that are rated to carry more weight that the maxed out trailer can load unto those components?

But, nothing is saying a buyer can't upgrade until their hearts content. But, if you, install heavier axles and higher rated tires, this does not raise the manufacturers GVWR.

If I could recommend one thing to you and you hear it, why don't you work with the dealer and upgrade to another unit now. It sounds like you are not happy with this unit and you don't even own it yet. Of course, one time you say its ordered, and another time you said "when i get the unit back home" like you do own it.

Best wishes and happy camping.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:43 PM   #17
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Really ! you assume to much , I have valid questions and comments , I can't speak for dodge , the tires on my chevy 2500 are rated at 3450 and with my 2700 lbs pop-up I'm not close to the weight limits . of course it's an HD
I simply raised a concern and a valid point of why just build to max ! when a little extra is always good ins . I far as my unit it's the one that fit my budget at this time , has all i needed , allows me to carry my bike and ATV , and will do fine for a couple yrs , then I'l most likely move up .

while searching through the dealers website , and the manufacture's web site , i came up with 3 different weight,s for load , and all three were equipped with the exact same options . Makes you wonder WTH . then read on this site about them using cheaper axles , Well a buyer has a right to know ! turns out they did sell units with cheaper axles , that didn't go over well and after 2 yrs moved up on the rating .

SO your rant is kind of pointless because you assume how i feel , and simply did not know of all the different info i was getting !

You seem to be very knowledge on these forest rivers units . I think that's great and hope i can get some good ideas of what you've gone through , i do have things i want to get to on this unit, the under belly is the best place to start , get the unseen but important things out of the way then start top side , insulating , sealing , rerouting , securing , and put back together better .
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:53 PM   #18
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This is my set up for extra water.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:30 AM   #19
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That aux set up is nice but won't work for me as my truck bed will be full . i want a AUX in the camper hooked up to the camper pump , and ready to work . Looks like plumbing in one of the grey water tanks is the way to go . but will have to wait and see once i get the unit and expose the underbelly to insulate and run some wiring , i'll check out the tank situation and decide how to go about making it work
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Old 02-24-2015, 04:10 PM   #20
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My 29hfs has 57 gallons grey is via two tanks, one for the sink (just behind the fresh tank) and the other for the bathroom sink and shower (over the rear-most axle). The black is 32 gals. (over the front axle) I suspect the reason for the tank sizes and placement is engineered into the unit and would be too complicated and risky to get into modifying the frame stucture, IMO. This is the bladder tank Rhino mentioned...

Portable RV Fresh Water Tank: 45 Gallon - New World CW1605 - Fresh Water Tanks - Camping World

I use a Thetford Smart Tote. CW puts them on sale, occassionally. Nothing wrong with the Barker.

Thetford Smart Tote Portable Waste Tank 27 gal RV Camper - $179.9..


can you verify there are 2 tanks and not one 57 gallon ? I assume you've been in there and have seen them .
I talked to the dealer today and asked him to get me some answers

first the a frame is 6" not the 7" was told it was . Thanks to Andersen hitch they are sending me the correct 6" brackets and a shipping label to send them back the 8" ones I had ordered AT no cost .

second I asked the dealer about the propane tanks . will a 7 gallon fit or will i need a new propane cover carrier ? they says a 7 gallon will not fit .
if So that's fine i can carry a couple extra 20# with me but would rather have 2 30#

third and most important . I asked about the grey water tank . is it 2 tanks for grey water or just one large one . on returning my call the dealer says he talked to forest river and that it is one large 57 gallon tank not 2 smaller one

Since you've been under there what it is ? for the xlr 29 hsf ?
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