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05-25-2018, 11:48 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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Camping and no water ! 27hfs
I’m dry camping here at lake Powell . I haven’t really used used the camper in a year. I knew that lake Powell was going to be no hookups so I filled up the water tank.
Water came thru the faucets and shower head initially for 10 seconds and then they stopped. Turned the pump on, and nothing . Heater on, nothing. Checked under the front bed for the pump. It’s not there. After everything was quite outside I found it under the sink... it’s making sounds, although I’m not sure if it’s the correct ones ... more like a humming... the heater makes sounds..
The line going to the cold lines seems to have water in it. But the water that most likely is coming from down below is empty... the filter looked good... initially the line going into the pump almost had a linked looked but maybe it was more of the pump trying to suck and getting nothing look?
Is it possible to have to much water in the tank to where it doesn’t build pressure or suction?
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05-25-2018, 11:50 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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Here is the pic of the pump
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05-26-2018, 12:10 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lacey, Wa
Posts: 2
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You will need to take the pump apart and see if the back flow flap is stuck , I keep having that same problem with my 5er ever time I hook up to city water, also might need to stop by the parts store and just get a new pump, if you really need water you can get it out of your low point drain line I would imagine
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05-26-2018, 12:45 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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Would you happen to have any pics or video of this being done?
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05-26-2018, 01:13 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 477
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Check your winterize valve. Since you had water for about 10 seconds and then nothing, and tank is full, this is a classic issue of the winterize valve being set to winterize vs. "normal"
__________________
McCormickJim
2017 GT 31L5
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05-26-2018, 01:17 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan 28RKX
You will need to take the pump apart and see if the back flow flap is stuck , I keep having that same problem with my 5er ever time I hook up to city water, also might need to stop by the parts store and just get a new pump, if you really need water you can get it out of your low point drain line I would imagine
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You can get water out of you fresh water drain.
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05-26-2018, 02:27 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 528
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A "humming" sound coming from the pump, to me, means that it isn't turning. If you aren't a mechanic, get a new pump and install it. A few more bucks than doing it yourself, but easier and quicker.
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05-26-2018, 02:59 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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I never winterized it though? Florida and now Phoenix never get that cold lol.... does anyone know why there is another line that’s T’d but capped off ? And what the purpose of the T even is
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05-26-2018, 03:00 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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I’m attempting to put water in the input side of the line and see if I can get it to create some suction? It has sat for a year. Or am I wasting my time and it’s only draining into the tank?
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05-26-2018, 03:02 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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What’s the pump suppose to be sounding like? A new pump would be great , if I knew I could get one out here in page, AZ. There is pressure and water in the output line side of the pump
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05-26-2018, 03:21 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoCrazy808
I never winterized it though? Florida and now Phoenix never get that cold lol.... does anyone know why there is another line that’s T’d but capped off ? And what the purpose of the T even is
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That is the line used to winterize your plumbing with antifreeze. You put that into the antifreeze jug and turn the pump on. Turn hot and cold on at all faucets until they run pink. Be sure that line is off.
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05-26-2018, 03:56 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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So the pump is def good... I got s slight trickle out of the kitchen faucet after opening and closing all the handles... then I decided to unscrew the cap and saw what appears to be white foam particles stuck in the screen.... kept it off for the moment and opened up the drain lines under the hot water heater with the pump on and it looked kinda gross at first and then all of a sudden it I couldn’t get the caps back on anymore, so I turned it all off...caps back on and after some playing with the kitchen faucet Siemens more got hit and cold water streaming out... meanwhile only some dripping out the shower head ... which is better than nothing.... so how can I purge and or clean the rest of the lines as it seems I have a clogging issue?
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05-26-2018, 04:01 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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More particles in the shower valve?
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05-26-2018, 04:07 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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And kitchen faucet
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05-26-2018, 05:00 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Atlanta Metro
Posts: 1,235
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Since you have never winterized I will assume you have never flushed or drained your water heater. I will also assume you have a Suburban water heater. The white residue is from the sacrificial anode rod which is now probably just a metal stick about the size of a lead pencil in diameter and about 9" long. You need to remove the old anode rod and replace it. To do that you go to the outside cover of the water heater and near the center bottom is a large hex head ( 1 1/6"), that is the anode rod. Remove it and replace it with this https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Attract.../dp/B000701HF0 Camco part #11563 but before you put the new rod it you need to flush out the water heater tank and most likely it will take some repeated flushing to get it relatively clean using this
htttps://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-RV-Water-Heater-Tank-Rinser-11691/205808422 Camco part # 11691. After you do that you will need to clean the aerators in each faucet including the shower wand. If you are lucky it will not be in the toilet plumbing since the problem comes from the hot water lines. The Camco parts can be found at the big box stores, Amazon, Walmart online and any RV dealer and prices will vary so shop around on google or Ebay.
Without flushing out your water heater just cleaning the faucets will not help since they will just clog again. The anode rod needs to be check at least annually and the same for the hot water tank. Don't forget after you flush the tank to make sure you refill the water heater tank before to get hot water or you will damage the heating element.
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2014 Palomino Puma 25RS
2011 F-150 Super Crew XLT
Days camped in 2014 - 23 Camped 2015-47
Camped 2016-71, 2017-33, 2018-29 booked
KT4W
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05-26-2018, 05:04 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 86
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Thanks for the info! I did drain all the water out of all the ports when I parked it a year ago, since I didn’t know how long it would be before I used it again, I just knew awhile and figured it might be better to not let the water just sit... maybe that hurt more than helped?
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05-26-2018, 05:10 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 528
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There are little screens on all your faucets. Remove and clean all. There should also be a filter on the line going into your pump. Same thing. Maybe this is your lucky day!
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05-31-2018, 08:18 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Chicago, Rochester now GA/SC at Lake Hartwell
Posts: 197
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The white crystallization particles you show look very much like what you'll find encasing what remains of your anode rod. I change mine every three years filling the tank with vinegar and letting it sit overnite. This procedure works for me.
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2019 Sandpiper 379FLOK, F350 Lariat 6.7 DRW, KN4YBP APRS, NRA Benefactors.
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