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Old 10-05-2014, 01:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
If the jacks are removed there is no drag unless the frame does, if the frame does drag then the wheels ARE in order.

Remove the issue before it becomes an incident.
Removing the jacks only adds another issue of storing them/reinstalling or buying jack stands/storing and placing them every time you camp. Not my idea of convenience. I like to remove all the unneeded trivial tasks and just relax. The less work setting up the better. Firm believer in the KISS principle.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:42 PM   #12
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Removing the jacks only adds another issue of storing them/reinstalling or buying jack stands/storing and placing them every time you camp. Not my idea of convenience. I like to remove all the unneeded trivial tasks and just relax. The less work setting up the better. Firm believer in the KISS principle.
Why buy a new camper and remove the conveniences?
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:46 PM   #13
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I agree OC, the wheels would be much better that tearing the jacks off. I was just thinking that not dragging anything would be the better option.
If the wheels are installed properly, it's not like you're lifting the wheels off the ground, it's a momentary contact and much less strain than hitting pot holes, etc on the highway or driving up and down curbs like everyone does.
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:33 PM   #14
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Or create a new problem. With all the discussions about frame strength. I just wonder if the frame is strong enough to support the weight of the rv on a small contact area at the very rear of frame rails.

Sometimes I over think things
What would be the difference if it hits the ground onto rollers without damage, or if it hits the ground tearing off the stabs? Clearly the effect to the frame would be better with the rollers.

I don't know if someone else said it, but flipping the axles are for pros, not a DIY project. Might be the cheapest and easiest way to go, however.

I assume the BRIDGE is on the only way home??


1) upgrade to 5200# axles and springs if it has the 4400# ers (I will post how much higher mine is)

2) is it possible to use boards under the tires to lessen the angle while crossing the BRIDGE? OOPS... I read the other message... that is what he is doing now.

3) I am not sure where (or how) the rollers would be mounted, since they would have to be lower than the bottom of the stab to work, which are forward of the tail by a margin.

4) remove the stabs, but make brackets to simplify the process (slip on and off - no bolts)

5) find a place on the other side of the BRIDGE to keep / store the TH

Or, get a good shop to flip the springs to the top of the axles
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:59 PM   #15
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It looks like one of my responses did not show up.

I agree with OC and Wolfwhistle that hitting a set of rollers is far better than tearing up the stabilizer jacks. What I was suggesting is if the OP can clear without rubbing at all by making the jacks removable, may be an option. Yes a little longer at set up but no major modification to the rv and inexpensive. If it doesn't clear without rubbing then any of the other reply's regarding rollers and or lifting Rv are also options.
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:35 AM   #16
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My question is, has anyone ever installed drag wheels on the rear of their toy hauler,
Did it solve dragging issues ? , or is raising trailer by flipping axles a better option?
Thanks for any info.
Rebel
Reb, does your unit qualify for the free axle(s) upgrade and does it have 4400# or 5200# axles??
Wolf
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Old 11-01-2014, 11:50 AM   #17
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[Wolf,, How do you know if axles are available for upgrade
thanks
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