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Old 03-06-2016, 12:32 PM   #1
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Finally picked the 375amp up yesterday but need help with first item

Thanks for sticking with the DW and I on our adventures of attaining the new 375amp. The delivery had its snags but it's expected. The wife loves the unit,

Anyways, I need a little help. During our PDI yesterday, the residential fridge worked fine, both fridge and freezer. I can't for the life of me remember though if the unit was actually plugged it or not to shore power or strictly running on 12v.

Anyways, we made the twelve hour drive straight through and when I get home, I noticed the green light on the inverter remote panel was on, indicating that the inverter was working and not bypassed with shore power. To confirm, the unit was not hooked to shore power so the green light is correct. But, I then go open the residential fridge and it is warm and no interior lights are on. This to me means the inverter is working but the fridge is not getting any juice.

Please help me, we have a trip planned it two weeks...

It never end!

Joe
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:26 PM   #2
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If breaker / fuses are good, I suspect you started your trip with less than a full battery. Did you start off with a cold fridge with something in it to hold the cold? You might consider placing it into economy mode when traveling That turns off the heater. You can also turn off ice maker if you need to. I hope the inverter is a sine wave type and has a built in charger, which produces 14.8v when in bulk mode. Also, one battery might not run it for that long ... but no matter one or more... it needs a full charge at the start.
WW
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Old 03-06-2016, 04:37 PM   #3
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I'm sure you were on shore power for the PDI. How many batteries do you have?


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Old 03-06-2016, 07:34 PM   #4
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Pull out the bottom drawer next to the fridge and you will find the plug for the fridge. If it was working before you left, it should be plugged in. I would verify it is plugged in anyway. Also, the inverter light should be on anytime it is plugged into shore power or not, as long as the battery is above 11.7 volts. This is the light inside the drivers side basement door looking on your right side on the carpeted wall panel.
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:51 PM   #5
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I had the impression residential refrigerators operated on shore power only? Educate me please.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:54 PM   #6
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XLR uses a 1000 watt inverter to run the residential fridge. The inverter changes 12vdc to 120ac to run the fridge when on battery power. My two 12 volt batteries will run the fridge while driving down the road for several hours.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:02 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone but I think I may have found the problem. All breakers were on except for one. I plugged in the shore power and then unplugged to verify fridge stayed on. It did and I think all is good now.

I'll keep everyone updated!

Thanks all!
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darvinstone View Post
XLR uses a 1000 watt inverter to run the residential fridge. The inverter changes 12vdc to 120ac to run the fridge when on battery power. My two 12 volt batteries will run the fridge while driving down the road for several hours.
Thank you for expanding my knowledge.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:58 AM   #9
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A 230AH battery has 115 usable. So if the inverter is pulling 40 amps it would last a little less than 6 hours on 50% duty cycle. 2 batteries 12. Of course this all depends on the actual load, cycling and if the battery is truly full to start with. Our converter chargers are not fully charging them.. Unless its on shore power for days.. not hours. I base the 40 amps on the fridge using 4 amps of 120vac and running 30 min every hour.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:43 AM   #10
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Just to clarify. The inverter light will remain lit regardless of being on shore power or not IF you have it on. When on shore power, it is not necessary to have the inverter running as the fridge will still receive 120v power. The only time it is required to turn on the inverter is when shore power is disconnected (unless you are winterizing, then I would leave it off).

To prevent the batteries from discharging while transiting, your truck should have a 12v power source to the trailer which will keep the rigs batteries charged while connected to the truck. Check your owner's manual. I cannot speak to Fords or Dodges, but on Chevy's you need to replace a red fuse plug in the underhood fuse box with a 40A fuse in order for power to be sent to the rig.
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