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Old 09-26-2016, 09:51 PM   #11
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FYI, the fridge and freezer did cool down to normal temp after a few hours running on gas. So the cooling mechanics, the condenser, the evaporator, are all working. The board is showing 120V at the two "prongs" that the element plugs in to. What if I just take the electric heating element out of the "sleeve" in the burner, switch it over to electric, and see if the element gets hot? If it doesn't, then I'm guessing that the element is toast. If the prongs are powered but the fridge isn't getting cold, it has to be a bad element, right?
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:11 PM   #12
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Pull the leads and check the continuity of the element. If it's toast it will have no continuity at all.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:41 AM   #13
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Here is a thread I wrote back in August about my experience with our fridge: My DM2652 Story. I have installed the fans and controller, but real world testing is probably not going to happen until next year.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:25 AM   #14
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Thanks for the Ford AC video recommendation. This a Dometic DM2652, for the record.

So many questions, so little knowledge...
Taran, I'm not sure you read my suggestion correctly as you talk about "Ford AC". I am trying to point you in the direction of Ford's refrigerator service troubleshooting information on the net, for your Dometic fridge issue, so I will suggest one more time. Just sayin'
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:33 AM   #15
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What if I just take the electric heating element out of the "sleeve" in the burner, switch it over to electric, and see if the element gets hot?
While that will work, it's much safer to take an ohm meter and check the continuity of the element. That's a 325 watt element, so it's going to get really hot in a hurry if it is good.

If you do decide to try that, make sure you're not touching the rod and it's not touching anything that could burn or melt.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:34 AM   #16
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Oh yeah, and don't get shocked!
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:17 AM   #17
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There is also a chance that the refrigerator is not level enough to operate. Make sure the unit is level with a ammonia absorption type refrigerator it has to be level to operate.
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:39 PM   #18
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Pull the leads and check the continuity of the element. If it's toast it will have no continuity at all.
X2,
It is a lot more reliable and much quicker than waiting to see if it cools overnight by hooking the element directly to an outside 120V source.

MUCH cheaper than going to some technician and paying him to do what you can do yourself!

Most times the element can be easily changed but you may have to disconnect yoru refrigerator and pull it into the camper to get access to the element.
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:29 PM   #19
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If it's running on AC it will be plenty hot at the end of the heater where the wires are attached. You don't have to remove it. By the way , the thermistor attached inside on the fins in the refrigerator. Is the sensor for the board. It looks like a thin wire with a clip. Sliding it up the fin lowers the temp.
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:39 PM   #20
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X2,
It is a lot more reliable and much quicker than waiting to see if it cools overnight by hooking the element directly to an outside 120V source.

MUCH cheaper than going to some technician and paying him to do what you can do yourself!

Most times the element can be easily changed but you may have to disconnect yoru refrigerator and pull it into the camper to get access to the element.
Well actually that idea came from a technical publication and is used to prove that the system works. If it does work your problem is most likely associated with the control board which will include the thermistor.
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