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Old 12-17-2015, 07:48 PM   #51
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North Star - yes the 2inch duct work to garage and bathroom would be changed out - the 35 has 4 outlet - each hooked to its own duct - the NT 30 has 2 --

There is a very thin wall between hot water heater compartment and under fridge area - that thin wall would be removed for more air flow

At this point I'm thinking of just installing the NT 30 in the garage right on top of wheel well and drop a duct down to current vent hole and back feed main kitchen area and other vent to garage - take off front cover of current furnace - so it blows straight out and use 2 furnaces -- the amp draw with the NT 20 and NT 30 is about the same as the sfQ35

With all the reworking of cabinets an electrical panel I'm getting nervous of long term issues

Installing in garage would be easy and be easy to match diamond plate walls -

Let's just say It's not Plug and Play like when they sent the SFQ35 to my house and asked what's the problem - it should just slide in - 😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:46 PM   #52
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PH, If possible upgraded to something better in the duct material, meaning insulated (what that is... no clue); but even if you stay with dryer vent ducting, add more registers; add a second register kitchen cabinet facing bedroom; kitchen cabinet facing the couch; and into the garage, but skip the bathroom. For the garage to really get a benefit out of this, a return in there somewhere would really help... ISTM.

That is if that much furnace can be stuffed into the space. And, I don't think you will need the 19K unit if done properly.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:54 PM   #53
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WW

You can never have too much heat in the winter and too much AC in the summer 😎

Have you looked at those Samsung wall mount AIr Conditioners thinking that might be the way to go for garage - 110AC too
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Old 12-19-2015, 05:59 PM   #54
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WW

You can never have too much heat in the winter and too much AC in the summer 😎

Have you looked at those Samsung wall mount AIr Conditioners thinking that might be the way to go for garage - 110AC too
My guess would be if you add any type 2nd air conditioner you'll need to up grade to 50amp service or have a separate place to plug in the other ac.
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Old 12-19-2015, 07:45 PM   #55
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I've been watching this thread as it matures and have a few things I can share.

I do not think the heater is any too big but I camped one night in it when the temperature bottomed out at 9 degrees. I was running off generator at the time and couldn't use an electric heater. The furnace never shut off and it obviously was at the extreme lower limit of capability but it did maintain a temperature of about 65 degrees.

This past November, we had a temperature low of 2 degrees but I was in a campground and was able to use the electric heaters also. The furnace cycled on/off normally and maintained 70 degrees.

I have installed a second 30 amp entrance into the garage which enables me to run off two separate 30 amp services or a 50 and 30 with dogbone. This enables the use of two electric heaters, which normally by themselves will heat the trailer without using the furnace, down to about 30 degrees. I have also installed a second AC in the garage which allows nice cooling on hot summer days. I usually do not use the extra one until temperatures climb above 90 degrees and then I shut it off after sunset.

My furnace ducting does not have the reducer in it at the garage vent and my garage is actually warmer than the main room when running furnace only. I am guessing the slide has more heat loss and also guessing the reducer was an afterthought "fix" to make the main living area warmer.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:12 AM   #56
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I've spent some nights in the 20's and the furnace kept up fine . but i don't use the ducting for heat delivery .it blows right out the front .i don't heat garage and i also insulated the underbelly very well
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Old 12-20-2015, 03:31 PM   #57
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Last 2 night ... 39 degrees F. The electric heater on 1500w constant .. all night ...kept 69/70 inside.

I had the garage blocked off / reflectix on all windows and have insulated floors;

got to test the NS99 furnace mod... works well. I can feel the old registers acting like returns;

if garage is to be heated, it would take another 1000/1500w back there going steady.

The unvented Wave6 works well, also. That is what I prefer, just have to crack a window... quiet is good!!! I will add a second back when no shore power available. I am sure the furnace and Wave6 working together will work. I will get a low oxygen sensor.

The second AC in garage just wired independently outside on 20 amp outlets and cord.. Why upgrade to 50A?
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Old 12-20-2015, 04:49 PM   #58
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you guys either like it hot or your'alls insulation is not up to snuff . when using an electric 1500 watt heater . no gas is needed as furnace doesn't run at all and the electric will only run occasionally to keep the unit between 60 when sleeping and turned up to 68 when awake . does not run very much maybe 15 or 20 mins an hr if that. this is below freezing temps from 26 to 32 .
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Old 12-21-2015, 12:12 AM   #59
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Our problem (geez, I have lots of problems!), Steve, is we do a lot of camping in WI parks and many times we can't get electric AND gen use is prohibited so electric heaters are out of the question. We also bought this to take our grandkids but can't do that when they are freezing in the back. So basically if it's cold we either freeze or stay home. Unfortunately it's been more of the latter. Has certainly quelled the excitement we once had for what should be a great TH.

So either I'm going to insulate and figure out how to install a correctly sized furnace, which based on the size differences is no easy task, or throw in the towel on this unit and move on. So I am actively watching this thread to see what PH comes up with, with his larger furnace install.

I'm very handy so I didn't mind fixing all the little things that have come up, but this furnace undersizing is so fundamental that the word "disappointment" doesn't begin to explain my feelings on this.

Other heat options can be the trusty ole kerosene space heaters that have been around for decades. Then there are the flameless LP portable heaters that are used in ice fishing shanties and hunting blinds. Just trying to think outside the box. I personally have used the LP type when we used to tent camp. It would take the chill off in the morning. I would think in conjunction with a furnace in a hard wall camper it would work farely well.


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Old 12-21-2015, 04:25 PM   #60
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Kilday, those Wave6 and Wave8 are flameless unvented heaters. Of course there is a burn within the medium (mat stuff). The efficiency is far greater than the furnace and what I was looking for. Keep in mind they require manual ventilation... such as a window ( or two ) cracked.

NS, I suspect an advantage you might have is that the foam board you added to the belly is better (R value wise) than what I used. Also, what brand model heater do you have?

Added foam is something I would like do in the future.
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