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Old 03-07-2016, 02:49 PM   #1
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Help with battery wiring on a new 375amp

First can anyone take a few pics of the driver's side wiring on your 375amp. I also need a pic of your second battery wiring if you have one for the residential fridge.


Okay so here is the second questions I have. During the PDI, the battery disconnect switch did not function correctly and was stuck in the on position. The dealer did not have the part. They are having it sent to me directly from Forest River. Anyways, the tech and I come to a conclusion that I can simply disconnect the output side of the switch from the rear. I agreed and needed it on anyways for the trip.

So this morning, I go to disconnect the output side and it still reads 12v even though it's not connected to 12v. I confirmed this with a test light.

Okay so now I'm stumped. I then notice that there are three 80amp circuit breakers mounted above the battery on the wall. Then I notice that each breaker is wired with the aux load side connected to the battery and the batt. side feeding the coach. If I'm not mistaking and knowing a good amount of basic 12v power, aren't these wired backwards?

There is also a fourth power wire connected to the positive terminal which is attached to the positive terminal on the passenger side 12v battery on the passenger side compartment. There is a second battery because there is an inverted for the residential fridge.

So I can see why the battery switch is not working; since the fourth wire is ran from the second battery over to the driver's side battery, the 12v from the passenger side batt feeds juice to the other power wires.

So as of now, the only way I can disconnect power is by removing all power wires from the main battery.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:22 PM   #2
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It could be your solar panel output, if I'm not mistaken, they ran the solar output in a way that makes my battery disconnect switch useless.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:28 PM   #3
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I had the same issue with my 415AMP. Turned out that both batteries were suppose to come with their own disconnect switch in the cases where you have the residential fridge. I got that directly from Forest River. I narrowed the problem down to the lack of a second battery disconnect was allowing the second battery to back feed the system even after disconnecting the primary battery via the disconnect switch. I was able to resolve this temporarily by removing the white ground wire running from the second battery to the frame.

I did a more permanent fix by rerouting the leads for the fridge inverter to the main battery, connecting the positive to the bus bar near the battery and the ground to the frame. I then tied both batteries in parallel. I can now kill power via the single disconnect switch located near the main battery. I am not sure why the system was not wired like this to begin with. This is my story, experience, and what I did with the same problem as you described. I will try to get pictures to you later today.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:34 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by mark.g View Post
I had the same issue with my 415AMP. Turned out that both batteries were suppose to come with their own disconnect switch in the cases where you have the residential fridge. I got that directly from Forest River. I narrowed the problem down to the lack of a second battery disconnect was allowing the second battery to back feed the system even after disconnecting the primary battery via the disconnect switch. I was able to resolve this temporarily by removing the white ground wire running from the second battery to the frame.

I did a more permanent fix by rerouting the leads for the fridge inverter to the main battery, connecting the positive to the bus bar near the battery and the ground to the frame. I then tied both batteries in parallel. I can now kill power via the single disconnect switch located near the main battery. I am not sure why the system was not wired like this to begin with. This is my story, experience, and what I did with the same problem as you described. I will try to get pictures to you later today.

That to me sounds right but I'm still baffled as to why the circuit breakers are wired backwards. Can you check yours for me? Why would they connect the aux load side to the main battery and batt side of the breaker to feed the coach? I'm going to need a diagram to figure this out!! I can't wait to see your pics and can hopefully figure this out.

I don't mind using two disconnects if I have to.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:23 PM   #5
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Ok, here are the photos.

Disclaimer, try not to focus on the wire colors. I used what I had in the lengths I had.

The first photo is the primary battery. The 0 gauge wires running into the expanded foam insulation run to the second battery. The black wire coming off the positive side goes to the disconnect switch, the other red wire on the positive I am 90% sure is for the generator. The circuit breakers I did not move are also wired the same as yours---I honestly do not believe that it matters which side is the feed and which is the load. I moved a few of the circuit breakers when I did my re-wire and did wire them per the stud labels, but I am OCD like that.

The second photo is just one of the circuit breakers that I did not touch. Can't read the labels though so it is more for your reference to see if they look the same.

Third photo is the second battery. The red wires come from the primary battery, negative to negative, positive to positive. To ensure even drain across both, the positive feed to the couch remained on the primary battery and I re-wired the frame ground to be located on the second battery. You can kind of see the battery to frame ground in the third photo, but I provided the fourth photo with a better view of the grounding point. I also left the factory white grounding wire, just because. I will probably remove it down the road so the battery cover will fit better, but it is what it is.

If you have any other questions let me know.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:03 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by mark.g View Post
Ok, here are the photos.

Disclaimer, try not to focus on the wire colors. I used what I had in the lengths I had.

The first photo is the primary battery. The 0 gauge wires running into the expanded foam insulation run to the second battery. The black wire coming off the positive side goes to the disconnect switch, the other red wire on the positive I am 90% sure is for the generator. The circuit breakers I did not move are also wired the same as yours---I honestly do not believe that it matters which side is the feed and which is the load. I moved a few of the circuit breakers when I did my re-wire and did wire them per the stud labels, but I am OCD like that.

The second photo is just one of the circuit breakers that I did not touch. Can't read the labels though so it is more for your reference to see if they look the same.

Third photo is the second battery. The red wires come from the primary battery, negative to negative, positive to positive. To ensure even drain across both, the positive feed to the couch remained on the primary battery and I re-wired the frame ground to be located on the second battery. You can kind of see the battery to frame ground in the third photo, but I provided the fourth photo with a better view of the grounding point. I also left the factory white grounding wire, just because. I will probably remove it down the road so the battery cover will fit better, but it is what it is.

If you have any other questions let me know.

Wow! That is a lot of info! Can I ask you this, would I be able to just add a second battery cut off switch to the positive on the passenger side battery and keep all the factory wiring as? Will it work correctly? I don't mind adding a second cutoff switch.

The way mine is wired right now from the factory is explained below
1. Two of three circuit breakers have one cable to coach and one cable to the main battery. This is where I am kind of stumped. Wouldn't there be some type of parasitic drain since those leads go directly to the battery?

2. The third circuit breaker has one cable to the coach and one cable attached to one point of the main battery cutoff switch.

3. There is a cable from the main battery to the second point of the battery cutoff.

4. There is a positive cable from the second battery connected to the positive of the main battery. This is where I'm assuming the back feed is coming from that you describe.

5. All negatives are attached to either the frame or the negative post of each battery.


I'm pretty sure everything is wired correctly from the factory except they did not add a battery cutoff for The single positive cable connecting the positive posts of both batteries. Would I cure my problem by simply adding a second battery cutoff for this cable?

I thank you so much for your help!!! We have a weeklong spring break trip coming up and I want the maiden voyage to be perfect!!

Joe
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:13 PM   #7
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Oh yes, you can most certainly add a second battery disconnect and accomplish the desired function. I chose to tie both batteries together to simplify future battery modifications which will consist of batteries wired in parallel.

As far as parasitic draws from the two leads connected directly to the battery, I cannot speak to this as I am still learning about the wiring. One of the circuit breakers feeds the generator and from my understanding is not drawing power unless you are cranking the generator to start it. In this case, there should be no parasitic draw as there is no closed circuit unless you are holding the start button for the generator.

I have not yet determined what exactly the other circuit breaker is for, but I suspect that it is the charging lead coming from the converter. This is why if you are connected to shore power and you try to switch off the disconnect switch, 12v power remains. The converter is pushing power directly to the batteries and the rest of the 12v system.

Based on these assumptions, there would be no parasitic draw.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:29 PM   #8
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Oh yes, you can most certainly add a second battery disconnect and accomplish the desired function. I chose to tie both batteries together to simplify future battery modifications which will consist of batteries wired in parallel.

As far as parasitic draws from the two leads connected directly to the battery, I cannot speak to this as I am still learning about the wiring. One of the circuit breakers feeds the generator and from my understanding is not drawing power unless you are cranking the generator to start it. In this case, there should be no parasitic draw as there is no closed circuit unless you are holding the start button for the generator.

I have not yet determined what exactly the other circuit breaker is for, but I suspect that it is the charging lead coming from the converter. This is why if you are connected to shore power and you try to switch off the disconnect switch, 12v power remains. The converter is pushing power directly to the batteries and the rest of the 12v system.

Based on these assumptions, there would be no parasitic draw.

Thank you so much for the information you've provided above. I was beginning to pull my hair out! I definitely will go put a second battery cutoff switch for the second battery.

Thank you again!
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:31 PM   #9
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You're welcome!
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