Has anybody had trouble getting the hot water heating element back in after it is removed? The threads look fine but it will only turn about 2-3 turns. It was taken out last fall after it was winterized and I have never been able to get it back in.
The anode rod does not screw all the way in. It is a tapered pipe thread design and you use Teflon tape (several wraps) to wrap around the threads before you screw it in. You must use the correct socket (1 1/16 inch) to remove and install the anode rod. The socket will help stabilize the rod and keep it level as you engage the initial threads.
You do NOT need to be "King Kong" when you tighten the anode rod. In fact it should only be snug enough not to leak. If over tightened, it will be a real bear to get out in the fall.
Properly installed, there should be several threads with white tape outside the heater and it won't leak.
IMO, NEVER leave anode out over the winter. The threads will rust without the protection of the sacrificial magnesium rod and critters can build nests (wasps, bees, and spiders love that convenient cave) in the tank.
Lou and Laura with Bella - German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS - Superglide 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
Our anode rod doesn't thread in very far either.
My guess is they are designed that way. If you could thread it in all the way, and you didn't use Teflon tape, I'd bet that it would never come out, rusted solid.
Like herk said, I put lots of Teflon tape on the threads, and just snug it up good at first. If it leaks, I just tighten it up a little at a time until the leak stops.
Thanks for the responses. I'll be able to check this week if it will work. We had it winterized at a dealer (not where we purchased it) and they had left it out. I'm not sure why after reading the responses.