inverters, batteries , solar & all the good stuff

[northstar1960]

Getting ready to head out and pick up my xlr 29 . while i have the underneath open for insulation , i plan on running some 8 gauge wiring for inverters to run tv, micro, etc . Not sure if i should get one big inverter say 3500 watt and auto disconnection for when it's plugged in and be able to run everything . or just a few smaller inverters to operate different areas when needed . I plan on 4 105amp hr batts 48.5 lbs each and looking into some solar . figure i would need at least a 300 to 500 watts depending on how often i use the inverters . I think it will just be for after hrs movie watching and maybe some micro wave popcorn etc . during the day when dry camping i can run the generator to charge things and run the unit . Opinions anyone

[northstar1960]

Also has anyone used the generator compartment for batteries ?

[rana]

It's generally easiest to just run your inverter into a subpanel with a transfer switch to power your rigs 110v outlets. Aside from running lines for the inverter itself.. no additional new wiring is needed. Of course.. you want to install your inverter as close possible to your battery bank, then simply run a single line of romex to the subpanel.

I'm assuming that you meant 4 12v batteries? Which batteries are you looking at? Are they true deep cycle? With 105 ah's it sounds like you might be talking about an RV/Marine deep cycle hybrid. I could be wrong.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Yarome

It's generally easiest to just run your inverter into a subpanel with a transfer switch to power your rigs 110v outlets. Aside from running lines for the inverter itself.. no additional new wiring is needed. Of course.. you want to install your inverter as close possible to your battery bank, then simply run a single line of romex to the subpanel.

I'm assuming that you meant 4 12v batteries? Which batteries are you looking at? Are they true deep cycle? With 105 ah's it sounds like you might be talking about an RV/Marine deep cycle hybrid. I could be wrong.

Ok this is where it gets tricky and why I'm asking those in the know . was just planning on having one inverter for the entrainment center ie tv ,dvd player , hopper . a 800 watt unit should do it . and then another one for kitchen etc . and a 400 watt on for the dinette area for the lap top and PC and Printer .

So a transfer switch that shuts off the inverter when plugged in and turns it on when not . running all my units power correct ?

using 4 12v 105amp hr deep cycle trolling motor batteries cause that's what i have on hand ,well i have 3 and will buy one more
Sounds like all i need is one for the for the main panel . But assume I'd be looking at a 3500 watt inverter at least ? Will start looking into that type of system cost is a factor and i all ready have a 800 watt inverter and a 400

[Blackhat6mike]

If you are planning to run a microwave off your inverter system, you may want to give that 3,500 watt inverter another look. Maybe 5,000 watts would workout a little better. My 3,000 inverter wouldn't run my microwave without a noticeable strain.
My 85ahr bat that came with the unit, weighed 47 lbs. The 4 x 125 ahr batts that I installed, weigh 67 lbs each and are deep cycle.
Don't "half-step" on your inverter. Go big!

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Blackhat6mike

If you are planning to run a microwave off your inverter system, you may want to give that 3,500 watt inverter another look. Maybe 5,000 watts would workout a little better. My 3,000 inverter wouldn't run my microwave without a noticeable strain.
My 85ahr bat that came with the unit, weighed 47 lbs. The 4 x 125 ahr batts that I installed, weigh 67 lbs each and are deep cycle.
Don't "half-step" on your inverter. Go big!

Ok . go big . I see a few different ways to do this . one would be where i just plug the 30amp rv power into an inverter . then run the whole unit when no outside power is available or gen is off . the other with the use of a transfer switch and power up my unit through the breaker box . keeping the units power open for the gen or shore power .
Now I'm confusing myself lol

Want to keep it simple and am sure I'll just need it for late night tv and PC use when i can't or won't run the generator .

[Blackhat6mike]

An auto transfer switch will deside which power source to use. It has a primary power side [shore power] and a secondary side [inverter] and will automatically switch between the two. I use a Parallax transfer switch and it works very well. The "Go Power" switch I first used, never worked, just buzzed real load from day one.
You wire both inverter and shore power into the transfer switch, then the switch into the units electrical panel. Make sure your switch is the right amperage to match your unit, ie 30 amp or 50 amp.
The right size and type wire can be found at most Home Depots for much less than an electrical supply dealer. Been there, done that.
Put the inverter as close as possible to the batts, but not in the same compartment. Gasses from the batteries being charged, are explosive and an inverter will set it off. A muffin fan to vent the batts is a really good idea.
I have no experience with plugging the shore power cord into an inverter. Someone else on the forum will have to help you with that method.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Blackhat6mike

An auto transfer switch will deside which power source to use. It has a primary power side [shore power] and a secondary side [inverter] and will automatically switch between the two. I use a Parallax transfer switch and it works very well. The "Go Power" switch I first used, never worked, just buzzed real load from day one.
You wire both inverter and shore power into the transfer switch, then the switch into the units electrical panel. Make sure your switch is the right amperage to match your unit, ie 30 amp or 50 amp.
The right size and type wire can be found at most Home Depots for much less than an electrical supply dealer. Been there, done that.
Put the inverter as close as possible to the batts, but not in the same compartment. Gasses from the batteries being charged, are explosive and an inverter will set it off. A muffin fan to vent the batts is a really good idea.
I have no experience with plugging the shore power cord into an inverter. Someone else on the forum will have to help you with that method.

Thanks . Starting to see the big picture now ! and that's what i needed .
let me ask this if there is no power being used how much energy is being used by the inverter in stand by mode ? Also costs of putting this al ltogether is a big factor

[Blackhat6mike]

It ain't gonna be cheap!! Once it's done, it's done! The CORRECT SIZE wiring is expensive all by it's self. I used 4/0 wire from the bats to the inverter [5,000watt industrial grade $975] 8/3with grnd from inverter to auto transfer switch [about $300 for switch], 2 or more extra batts [115amp hr or bigger $??] and inverter remote head [about $35].
The amount of parasitic current the inverter will use when TURNED ON, will depend on the size of the inverter. Mine draws about 2.5 amps. Turn it off when not in use and it draws less than 1 amp.
Expect to spend more than planned but it IS WORTH the trouble, especially if you boondock a lot. I'm full solar with the same electrical system, and it has paid off more than once. Twice, we have been in CGs that lost power due to lightning storms. People actually started to panic after three hours. We stayed "on the grid" with the push of the inverter on button. We did not make any friends!!

[northstar1960]

yep I agree do it right the first time . but cash seems to rule the day right now . at least now i Know the what's ,where's and how to's for the near future . For now I'll put my 800 to work for the tv etc and live on propane and generator .

It's really the way to go with a whole unit inverter , good battery pack and some solar .
soon!

[Play Harder]

NorthStar

The only time you need a 2000 plus inverter is for big appliances such as microwave, blender, electric Heaters......ect - you know popcorn can be popped on a stove, barbecue.... 😜😜😜 besides microwave or such will draw down your 4 batteries very fast, with a 3500-5000 I'd have at least 6 12V batteries.

To Run Satellite, TV, Stereo and LED lighting all night long for couple days a 1200- 2000 watt would work great on 4 12V batteries - charge w solar or generator definitely research panels - output Amps is important for re charge time. Also how efficient the panel are - some panels lose more than 50% charging capacity if not align to the sun correctly

I ran a 1500 inverter for years in my last RV --the biggest gain in time was when LED lighting came out huge difference in battery consumption.

Some generators have an optional battery charging kit - which helps recharge your batteries much faster too.

I'm just doing the research again - solar panels and inverters have changed a lot in 5 years

And the shore switch is the way to go as others have stated

Good luck




Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

[palmetto rogue]

2000w inverter runs everything just not all at once fused at 300 amps and with a disconnect. Run with 4 6v golf car batteries 4/0 wire and transfer switch into sub panel that powers all outlets except one. LED lights a big help. Inverter near the batteries and batteries in a naturally vented box. (I used a Walmart truck tool box, almost perfect fit with some tweaking). 300w mono solar panels with MPPT controller. And a 2500w gen for an occasional boost.

[northstar1960]

PH . yes micro will draw down fast but only on for a few mins at a time .I think the 800 watt inverter should run my 120 watt tv and blue ray player or hopper . since our units will run on DC all but the fridge and microwave . I think i just need it for the entertainment center. have the generator for charging the saving propane during the day . when at the koa full hook ups but want to get set up for no hook ups and last weeks

[mud yapster]

435ah 12v battery bank Vmax Charge Tanks, 2000watt Cotek hard wire with transfer switch, 520 watt solar array, Morningstar MPPT TS60 charge controller, all remote monitors and fusing, about $2500 or so in my project. Works very good!!! Pic in my album if you'd like to look at them.

[WestCoastRV'er]

Originally Posted by mud yapster

435ah 12v battery bank Vmax Charge Tanks, 2000watt Cotek hard wire with transfer switch, 520 watt solar array, Morningstar MPPT TS60 charge controller, all remote monitors and fusing, about $2500 or so in my project. Works very good!!! Pic in my album if you'd like to look at them.

Your installation looks very clean. Great Job...

What are your thoughts on the Vmax 155 AH batteries?
Only draw back is weight but I believe they are one of the best AGM batteries around. Batteries are the last purchase for my solar setup.
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[Ramblin Recks]

You should determine your actual energy usage first then you can size your battery bank, then divide the battery bank ah by 2 and that will give you the total ah available. Then you can determine inverter size based on your projected ac load.






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[mud yapster]

Originally Posted by WestCoastRV'er

Your installation looks very clean. Great Job...

What are your thoughts on the Vmax 155 AH batteries?
Only draw back is weight but I believe they are one of the best AGM batteries around. Batteries are the last purchase for my solar setup.
.
.
.

I have 2 of the SLR155 and 1 of the SLR125 I like them so far. I think a good charge controller is also key. Your solar array size you will want 5% to 10% charge capacity of your battery bank. So Mine at 435 X .05= 21.75 amps so I'm at about 6%. I have monocystilline panels.

[taken]

One thing no one mentioned is, if using for electronics like BR player, flat screen, etc., you should get a pure sine wave inverter. They are much more expensive but the way to go. Go Power has a good blend of value and quality. I have the factory installed roof 160 watt panel and am thinking of getting a Go Power 3000 watt inverter, matching 50 amp transfer switch, and remote monitor panel.

[mud yapster]

Cotek makes Go Power inverters and yes mine is a Cotek true sine wave, I run my 42" flat screen tv, computer, microwave, blue ray DVD, stereo, all LED lighting, side by side fridge, central heat, and all works perfectly. If you buy a Go Power open it and you will see Cotek stamped on the components. I have the hard wire with built in transfer switch. 160 watt mono panel by itself won't get you vary far with only 8 amps on a good sunny day.

[Blackhat6mike]

You might want to reconsider the name brand of the transfer switch as I went through two Go Power switches that were both bad out of the box. Parallax builds a great switch, but it isn't small. Both of the Go Power switches I used buzzed constantly and would not switch. Check the reviews on Amazon.