Kind of an odd ommision... No interior electric hot water switch...

[the.wilsons]

On our 395 it is outside also but when you turn the switch to the off position the hot water heater is on and when the switch is in the on position it is actually off. Took me a while to figure that out.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by the.wilsons

On our 395 it is outside also but when you turn the switch to the off position the hot water heater is on and when the switch is in the on position it is actually off. Took me a while to figure that out.

I hope your Steering wheel isn't that way? Youroo!!

[jtownstumpjumper]

I don't own a toy hauler but our Silverback has the Suburban water heater....didn't like having the outside switch either......I left the water heater alone but tapped off the receptacle underneath that the water heater was plugged into and pulled some 12-3/G romex into the bottom of my control panel....put in a lighted switch which serves really as nothing but a kill switch for the receptacle underneath.....If we then want the electrical side of the water heater off we simply turn this switch off.....if we want it on, we simply turn it on and being lighted it readily let's us know the electrical is on.

[taken]

Originally Posted by the.wilsons

On our 395 it is outside also but when you turn the switch to the off position the hot water heater is on and when the switch is in the on position it is actually off. Took me a while to figure that out.

The switch directly on the hw heater can be popped off and flipped. Then it would be correct. It was just installed upside down.

[taken]

Originally Posted by jtownstumpjumper

I don't own a toy hauler but our Silverback has the Suburban water heater....didn't like having the outside switch either......I left the water heater alone but tapped off the receptacle underneath that the water heater was plugged into and pulled some 12-3/G romex into the bottom of my control panel....put in a lighted switch which serves really as nothing but a kill switch for the receptacle underneath.....If we then want the electrical side of the water heater off we simply turn this switch off.....if we want it on, we simply turn it on and being lighted it readily let's us know the electrical is on.

Yep, this is essentially what I'm doing.

[jtownstumpjumper]

Someone mentioned mixing 120 volts with 12 volts in the same compartment.....when you look on the back side of your control panel, there are many 12V wires and the connectors on the back of the switches are exposed...now, just a caution!!!!...if you bring a 120V line up into that same area, you should not leave those connectors on the back of that 120V switch exposed....they need to be enclosed and contained in their own box to keep someone from accidently touching one of those connectors...OUCH!!!...just my 2 cents.....you'll notice in my pic above my switch is well below the control panel and, yes, my 120V wires are isolated in their on electrical box.

[taken]

Originally Posted by jtownstumpjumper

Someone mentioned mixing 120 volts with 12 volts in the same compartment.....when you look on the back side of your control panel, there are many 12V wires and the connectors on the back of the switches are exposed...now, just a caution!!!!...if you bring a 120V line up into that same area, you should not leave those connectors on the back of that 120V switch exposed....they need to be enclosed and contained in their own box to keep someone from accidently touching one of those connectors...OUCH!!!...just my 2 cents.

Well, not too worried about that for a few reasons. First, they wouldn't be exposed because the back of the panel isn't exposed. No different that the terminals on the side of a household outlet or light switch are exposed if it is removed from it's wall box. Second, the only one working on my RV is me, and I know they are there and what the voltage is. Third, if you see romex going to a switch, it's pretty obvious it's not low voltage.

[jtownstumpjumper]

Originally Posted by taken

Well, not too worried about that for a few reasons. First, they wouldn't be exposed because the back of the panel isn't exposed. No different that the terminals on the side of a household outlet or light switch are exposed if it is removed from it's wall box. Second, the only one working on my RV is me, and I know they are there and what the voltage is. Third, if you see romex going to a switch, it's pretty obvious it's not low voltage.

The key word was "accidently"...I'm thinking about the next owner of your RV or a service technician working on your RV someday when you're not around.....since you mentioned putting your switch in one of the blank spots in your control panel which would put those 120V wires/connectors right next to some 12V wires/connectors......just had some concerns.

[taken]

Again, Romex = 120v. Can't miss it. If you do, it won't happen a second time...

[rockfordroo]

mixing 120 volts with 12 volts in the same compartment.

If you look at Post #7, you'll see that wmtire has both 12VDC and 110VAC together. I don't know if there's a "box" behind it, but I'd be surprised if there was. It's not that big. So I'm guessing he has both mixed together. Alternatively, both switches COULD be 12VDC with a 110VAC relay with a 12VDC solenoid somewhere else in the TT that turns on the 110VAC. But even that "mixes" the 12VDC and the 110VAC on the same device.

And let's not forget the HWH has both 12VDC and the 110VAC stuff on it. In fact, the 12VDC and the 110VAC thermostats are side by side.

[taken]

There is also 12v and 120v in the same area in your breaker/fuse box. The DC and AC grounds are also both bonded to your trailer's frame. They cross paths quite frequently in your RV without the sky falling...

[LANShark42]

On our Coachmen Catalina 273BH, it it outside, behind the WH panel. VERY inconvenient if you ask me!

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

If you look at Post #7, you'll see that wmtire has both 12VDC and 110VAC together. I don't know if there's a "box" behind it, but I'd be surprised if there was. It's not that big. So I'm guessing he has both mixed together. Alternatively, both switches COULD be 12VDC with a 110VAC relay with a 12VDC solenoid somewhere else in the TT that turns on the 110VAC. But even that "mixes" the 12VDC and the 110VAC on the same device.

And let's not forget the HWH has both 12VDC and the 110VAC stuff on it. In fact, the 12VDC and the 110VAC thermostats are side by side.

WHOA!!! wmtire doesn't have anything mixed. I'm just a messenger.

I was just showing pics of optional Suburban gas/propane panels and also of Turbs factory installed panel that has electric and propane switches in it. Any of my RV's have had the one DSI/propane switch inside and the electric heating element switch outside.

I believe we have discussed this before, and that BOTH the switches are 12 volt in these panels.....but the electric switch actually controls a 12 volt relay that turns on the 120 volt side.

Let me see if I can find this thread or a schematic to make sure I'm not dreaming it.

[wmtire]

OK, I found a Suburban installation guide for a SW6DEL which has the inside panel switches for the propane and electric like I showed in post #7.

Page 7 of this pdf does show the inside electric switch being 12 volt and controlling a relay to the 120 volt side.

http://www.riversidetrailer.com/Manu...r%20Heater.pdf

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

When I picked mine up - I was told if electric switch on outside was left on it would automatically switch between gas and electric depending if your plugged in out.. - seems true - I got hot water and not hooked to power switch on - guess I'll have to look to see if there is flame burning when I hook to power to confirm.


Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

Not true - two completely separates systems. They can be used independently or both at the same time.

Switch-over uses your fingers.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by wmtire

OK, I found a Suburban installation guide for a SW6DEL which has the inside panel switches for the propane and electric like I showed in post #7.

Page 7 of this pdf does show the inside electric switch being 12 volt and controlling a relay to the 120 volt side.

http://www.riversidetrailer.com/Manu...r%20Heater.pdf

Looks like a VERY easy retrofit using a 120 volt relay with a 12 volt coil.
The hard part might be finding that new switch plate.

[wmtire]

You will be able to see the wiring differences between the one I posted with the inside electric switch via a relay using the pdf file link above for page 7.... and the ones with the electric switch on the outside that Herk just posted.

[taken]

Or just do what I'm going to do and use a 120v rocker switch. Cost is a couple bucks and wire that I already have and have a perfectly clean installation. Sometimes people make it harder than it needs to be...

[youroo]

What people Post here must be (Safety Compliant) not just for the owner but other service people also! What one does behind (Closed Doors) is up to you! Youroo!!

[taken]

Originally Posted by youroo

What people Post here must be (Safety Compliant) not just for the owner but other service people also! What one does behind (Closed Doors) is up to you! Youroo!!

LOL. What I plan to do is completely SAFE. taken!!