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Old 09-26-2016, 03:48 PM   #21
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I was researching fixes for ramp doors when I came across this post. Glad I found it actually, as now I have joined the site. Anyway, while loading my 2009 Road Glide up on Sunday, I noticed that the framing of the ramp came away from the fiberglass. I will go take pictures today, after seeing some of the reply's, I know I am not the first to run into issues. Is there a fix, besides having to buy another ramp door? Any help would be appreciated, as I want to get it resealed before water intrusion takes place.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:49 PM   #22
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I was researching fixes for ramp doors when I came across this post. Glad I found it actually, as now I have joined the site. Anyway, while loading my 2009 Road Glide up on Sunday, I noticed that the framing of the ramp came away from the fiberglass. I will go take pictures today, after seeing some of the reply's, I know I am not the first to run into issues. Is there a fix, besides having to buy another ramp door? Any help would be appreciated, as I want to get it resealed before water intrusion takes place.
Could the ramp be flexing under the weight of the typical bike and cause the seal to be compromised and failure? I just can't believe that thin fiberglass, thin plywood, and styrofoam however bonded, while spanning that distance could be expected to hold up.
ww
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Old 09-26-2016, 07:25 PM   #23
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On mine, of the three hinge bolts that attach the hinges to the ramp door..... only one bolt on each attaches to the sandwich of the door material.
The other two bolts on each hinge are connected to air..... the inside is hollow with nothing inside . The nuts are not able to clamp the hinges to the door.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:52 PM   #24
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I'm trying to figure out how to post images. Forgive my ignorance, but I'm not much of a forum guy. As soon as I figure it out, I'll post pics.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:56 PM   #25
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If anyone is a mac user and knows how to convert photos over to be used here, please let me know. I tried copy and paste...didn't work.
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:27 AM   #26
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If anyone is a mac user and knows how to convert photos over to be used here, please let me know. I tried copy and paste...didn't work.
Use Dropbox. Easy, fast and free. It doesn't care if you use a Mac or an off brand.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:10 AM   #27
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door pictures

Here is a brand new door (my 2nd). You can see the deflection from the weight of the door on the pitifully short hinges. How can you keep something that moves this much sealed?



My doors came with six springs. The door would hang in the air, almost parallel to the ground. I took 3 springs off. The door will now go to the ground and it isn't too hard to raise and lower. I also added reinforcements to the inside and outside of the door. I feel confident that I have my hinge issues whipped.





Lippert has been very good to me regarding my door problems. However, my trailer has been in the shop more than 6 weeks each time (dealer examination, exchange of pictures and information with Lippert, manufacture and shipping of the door, door installation). This design for toyhauler ramp doors is not working. Sadly, they seem to be on all new toyhaulers.
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Old 10-01-2016, 02:05 PM   #28
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Did the replacement door have material inside (not hollow) around the perimeter of the door including all bolts to the hinges. In other words are the hinges connecting to something other than air on all three bolts per hinge.
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Old 10-01-2016, 03:30 PM   #29
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#27 Andy
That is nice work ... looks very good. Lippert should hire you for consultation work!
My door (29HFS ... slightly smaller) only had 3 springs, seems to be sprung correctly and isn't twisting the bottom "rail", like your was. But, the center of the door (even while only stepping on it is getting soft... delaminating, I suppose).
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Old 10-01-2016, 03:32 PM   #30
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Did the replacement door have material inside (not hollow) around the perimeter of the door including all bolts to the hinges. In other words are the hinges connecting to something other than air on all three bolts per hinge.

NO. I had a discussion with Lippert about this. Each corner is supposed to have a "key" that is glued in to the aluminum extrusion, effectively making the door the same as if it were one piece. The Lippert engineer says if the door is assembled right, it will not fail. D@mn engineers. Here is a drawing I made of what I believe is a cross section of the door.

Orange is the foam board core, green is the bolts, black is the hinge, gray is the aluminum extrusion

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