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Old 05-20-2015, 12:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Semperfi24 View Post
Thanks Ford, I wasnt sure if this was an operation where I just screw the valve onto the existing pex pipe, or if I had to remove everything to just the bare pipe (or maybe hose? lol) and attach with glue like I would for pvc pipe joints. The tape methos is preferred. Appreciate the clarification
As Idaho Ford said, buy the 1/2" female threaded version. They just screw on.

Another reason for doing this is: I have seen several reports on here that say something to the effect that when turning the caps, the entire pex turns. You really don't want the tubing turning on the fittings.
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:53 PM   #12
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What is the proper replacement for this cap? I went to the hardware store and bought the 1/2" PVC white threaded cap, but it does not fit the same and leaks unless i put on thread tape and tighten with pliers...

thanks for the advice.
try a local dealer
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Old 05-20-2015, 01:35 PM   #13
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Actually the cap is 1/2" pipe, but not tapered, relying on washer as pointed out. Drip irrigation uses these on end caps. They aren't a hose thread. Pex, or not, has nothing to do with it. Unless you are cutting it and you don't want to do that. Another idea, you could get some 90s and 1/2" PVC and move them closer to the side for easier access ( good for us older folks). But if you only want a cap try HD or Lowe's irrigation parts.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:20 PM   #14
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WolfWhistle, excellent idea with the 90s, can't wait to try it on my rig. Mine are right behind the passenger side drive tires - a pretty filthy area, and the caps are always covered in muck. Rerouting with the 90s and adding ball valves at the end should certainly make that a much much easier process!
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:01 PM   #15
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WolfWhistle, excellent idea with the 90s, can't wait to try it on my rig. Mine are right behind the passenger side drive tires - a pretty filthy area, and the caps are always covered in muck. Rerouting with the 90s and adding ball valves at the end should certainly make that a much much easier process!
Just be careful with the 90s and resulting horizontal tubing if you really need to winterize. Those drains are at low points for a reason. . .
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:08 AM   #16
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I added the ball valves a few years ago....mine just screwed on normally. I did use teflon tape. So much easier to just turn a valve rather than take a cap off..
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:37 AM   #17
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Actually, at least in the case of 29HFS, it isn't the lowest point, in that lines run uphill to that point. So, consider this as well.
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Old 05-21-2015, 11:24 AM   #18
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Actually, at least in the case of 29HFS, it isn't the lowest point, in that lines run uphill to that point. So, consider this as well.
I just figured you didn't have to worry about it in Florida I am sure there are different configurations, but the drains should generally exit at or near the lowest point of the tank. If it doesn't, they did some poor engineering.
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Old 05-21-2015, 05:05 PM   #19
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Near lowest point but not perfectly. Temps in the 20s for longer than 24 hours will break north Florida pipes.
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Old 05-21-2015, 05:14 PM   #20
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Ended us putting hose bibs on mine so I could use it as a hose connection if needed when dry camping. But either way, much nicer than laying on the ground to remove the cap then getting soaked when the water pours out while I'm under the trailer with the wrench.
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