Low point Water Drain Cap Lost

[Red900]

What is the proper replacement for this cap? I went to the hardware store and bought the 1/2" PVC white threaded cap, but it does not fit the same and leaks unless i put on thread tape and tighten with pliers...

thanks for the advice.

[WolfWhistle]

I recommend replacing with a 1/2" PVC gate (ball) valve. You'll need 3 if you do then all.

[dieselguy]

Like said, more convenient in the long run to just replace the caps with a ball valve. The older water line fittings that your cap fell off from are generally not stocked at hardware stores so you have to make a trip to any dealer to get them. They are not just a simple pipe thread cap as you discovered. Many RV manufaturers have gone to the PEX fittings with the metal band that holds the line to the ftg.

[Red900]

Yes, it is the PEX with the metal band. I just did not see a PEX cap at the hardware store. Ball valve is an interesting idea.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by Red900

What is the proper replacement for this cap? I went to the hardware store and bought the 1/2" PVC white threaded cap, but it does not fit the same and leaks unless i put on thread tape and tighten with pliers...

thanks for the advice.

The original caps are pretty much an RV thing. They have an integral washer, where a 1/2" cap won't and will need tape or an additional washer. I replaced two caps at the local RV shop before I decided it was a waste of time, effort and my lower back. I now have these from Lowes.

[Red900]

I think these are the caps. Viega 36205 PureFlow 1/2-Inch Zero Lead Manabloc Port Safety Cap, 6-Pack - Pipe Fittings - Amazon.com

But, Im going to do the valve. I like that idea!!!

[madmaxmutt]

PS You do have to use water rated tape when you install the valve, but then on it is just a turn of the handle.


PPS I should have provided this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_21481-34146-...&storeId=10151

[Semperfi24]

MadMax, do you just attach the ball valve to the pex using regular PVC pipe cement? Or is there another method? Thanks

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Semperfi24

MadMax, do you just attach the ball valve to the pex using regular PVC pipe cement? Or is there another method? Thanks

Use thread tape on the threads, the ball valves are threaded.

You can see that here.
Threaded PVC Ball Valve | QC Supply

[Semperfi24]

Thanks Ford, I wasnt sure if this was an operation where I just screw the valve onto the existing pex pipe, or if I had to remove everything to just the bare pipe (or maybe hose? lol) and attach with glue like I would for pvc pipe joints. The tape methos is preferred. Appreciate the clarification

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by Semperfi24

Thanks Ford, I wasnt sure if this was an operation where I just screw the valve onto the existing pex pipe, or if I had to remove everything to just the bare pipe (or maybe hose? lol) and attach with glue like I would for pvc pipe joints. The tape methos is preferred. Appreciate the clarification

As Idaho Ford said, buy the 1/2" female threaded version. They just screw on.

Another reason for doing this is: I have seen several reports on here that say something to the effect that when turning the caps, the entire pex turns. You really don't want the tubing turning on the fittings.

[bukhrn]

Originally Posted by Red900

What is the proper replacement for this cap? I went to the hardware store and bought the 1/2" PVC white threaded cap, but it does not fit the same and leaks unless i put on thread tape and tighten with pliers...

thanks for the advice.

try a local dealer

[WolfWhistle]

Actually the cap is 1/2" pipe, but not tapered, relying on washer as pointed out. Drip irrigation uses these on end caps. They aren't a hose thread. Pex, or not, has nothing to do with it. Unless you are cutting it and you don't want to do that. Another idea, you could get some 90s and 1/2" PVC and move them closer to the side for easier access ( good for us older folks). But if you only want a cap try HD or Lowe's irrigation parts.

[SternHappens]

WolfWhistle, excellent idea with the 90s, can't wait to try it on my rig. Mine are right behind the passenger side drive tires - a pretty filthy area, and the caps are always covered in muck. Rerouting with the 90s and adding ball valves at the end should certainly make that a much much easier process!

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by SternHappens

WolfWhistle, excellent idea with the 90s, can't wait to try it on my rig. Mine are right behind the passenger side drive tires - a pretty filthy area, and the caps are always covered in muck. Rerouting with the 90s and adding ball valves at the end should certainly make that a much much easier process!

Just be careful with the 90s and resulting horizontal tubing if you really need to winterize. Those drains are at low points for a reason. . .

[cpaulsen]

I added the ball valves a few years ago....mine just screwed on normally. I did use teflon tape. So much easier to just turn a valve rather than take a cap off..

[WolfWhistle]

Actually, at least in the case of 29HFS, it isn't the lowest point, in that lines run uphill to that point. So, consider this as well.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

Actually, at least in the case of 29HFS, it isn't the lowest point, in that lines run uphill to that point. So, consider this as well.

I just figured you didn't have to worry about it in Florida I am sure there are different configurations, but the drains should generally exit at or near the lowest point of the tank. If it doesn't, they did some poor engineering.

[WolfWhistle]

Near lowest point but not perfectly. Temps in the 20s for longer than 24 hours will break north Florida pipes.

[doc73]

Ended us putting hose bibs on mine so I could use it as a hose connection if needed when dry camping. But either way, much nicer than laying on the ground to remove the cap then getting soaked when the water pours out while I'm under the trailer with the wrench.