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06-30-2015, 08:45 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick130
how high did you raise the door from the ground? Thank you I appreciate your help.
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Slick130,
Actually have three answers here. #1 when I loaded the bike at home, the door was on the ground. My driveway is pitched enough that the ramp was not that steep. #2 when I unloaded at the campground. The road was pretty flat, so I had to place a few 6x6's across the door (only one high...5.5 inches...) and then just rolled down the ramp. #3 when I loaded the bike at that campground, I just raised the nose of the camper (via the electric tongue jack...). I went pretty high but was able to keep the door on the ground.
The key for me was not to "sit" on the bike and instead drive the bike up the ramp with both feet walking up the ramp as I straddled the bike. This gave me the clearance at the top of the ramp but still gave me control of the bike (feathering the clutch and brake...).
I would highly recommend "testing" out these procedures in your driveway or street. Better to know what you need and how to do it when you are at home then when you are at the campground and you don't have the supplies you need...
__________________
2015 XLR Hyperlite 29HFS (installing mods...)
2018 Chevy 3500HD 4X4 6.0L
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06-30-2015, 11:58 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevejd235
Slick130,
Actually have three answers here. #1 when I loaded the bike at home, the door was on the ground. My driveway is pitched enough that the ramp was not that steep. #2 when I unloaded at the campground. The road was pretty flat, so I had to place a few 6x6's across the door (only one high...5.5 inches...) and then just rolled down the ramp. #3 when I loaded the bike at that campground, I just raised the nose of the camper (via the electric tongue jack...). I went pretty high but was able to keep the door on the ground.
The key for me was not to "sit" on the bike and instead drive the bike up the ramp with both feet walking up the ramp as I straddled the bike. This gave me the clearance at the top of the ramp but still gave me control of the bike (feathering the clutch and brake...).
I would highly recommend "testing" out these procedures in your driveway or street. Better to know what you need and how to do it when you are at home then when you are at the campground and you don't have the supplies you need...
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Thanks for the information. I appreciate your time and trouble. Ride safe and happy camping.
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06-30-2015, 12:15 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick130
Thanks for the information. I appreciate your time and trouble. Ride safe and happy camping.
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Anytime. This site has given me so much information and help. It's only appropriate that I give back...
__________________
2015 XLR Hyperlite 29HFS (installing mods...)
2018 Chevy 3500HD 4X4 6.0L
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06-30-2015, 02:26 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Unless i really crank it up (the tongue) and I have a swing back 6" foot so I can take it pretty high, I take me weight off the seat as I reach the scrapping point. Or, i would scrap. It also helped when I set the bikes shock preload for more weight. I posted an idea on here as well adding an incline to the ramp. You could fashion a ramp extension attach with a hinge and space the ramp up.. say 12" up off the ground with a 3 foot wide ext. . I did this on a 21RR Greywolf. The ext has to be stout. A 1/4" alumninun plate might work Too bad FR doesn't put the slanted floor on these models. Dove tail I think they call it.
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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06-30-2015, 03:06 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 581
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Agreed....a dove tail would solve the scraping problem. But you would have the back ~2 feet of your garage at a slope. Something I would rather live with than the scraping or creative ways to raise the trailer/ramp....
__________________
2015 XLR Hyperlite 29HFS (installing mods...)
2018 Chevy 3500HD 4X4 6.0L
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06-30-2015, 08:20 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 40
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Heading out for the first time with my bike this weekend as well. Used the Harbor Freight Chock. Fastened it to a 2x4 with holes cut to fit over the front tie downs. Loaded fine with trailer level Nitro 31fqsl has dovetail. Full load of water on as well for State Park close to home. Go ahead and critique this setup. Headed out for longer trip later in the month and need to get the bugs worked out.
Jeff
__________________
Thanks,
Jeff
-2016 XLR Nitro 31 FQSL
-2006 Chev Silverado 2500HD Duramax LBZ
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06-30-2015, 09:57 PM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: mcdonald pa
Posts: 54
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hi jeff, hey is that the Pittsburgh wheel chock at hf, there on sale now for 59.00 was going to pick one up this weekend, what do you think of it ? only thing I have been hauling is bikes so far ( pedal l.o.l. ) but I have been wanting to stick my gl1800 in it to try it out, we pulled a aspen popup for lots of miles with the gl but the wife wasn't up to long trips on the bike anymore so we went the 24fqsl route. thanks joe
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07-01-2015, 03:59 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 40
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It is the Pittsburgh 1800 lb. model from HF. I just received mine yesterday. I adjusted and tested prior to putting it in the TH. It does lock the wheel in nicely and feels secure. It is a little tough to back out of with my 725 lb. bike so you can expect that proportionately with your GW but I guess that's the trade off for the tight fit. The way I set it up, it uses the tie downs in the TH as stops but is completely removeable.
Jeff
__________________
Thanks,
Jeff
-2016 XLR Nitro 31 FQSL
-2006 Chev Silverado 2500HD Duramax LBZ
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07-01-2015, 06:17 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 581
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Mainous,
I use the same chock in my 29HFS. I should have taken pictures... but used the TH tie downs for the triple tree, wrapped the rear tire with ratchet straps and used a small ratchet strap to "snug" the front tire into the chock. Drove about 70 miles on the freeway and some back roads. The bike did not move at all.
Next time, I will take pictures...
__________________
2015 XLR Hyperlite 29HFS (installing mods...)
2018 Chevy 3500HD 4X4 6.0L
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07-01-2015, 07:27 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NEPA
Posts: 1,477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainous
It is a little tough to back out of with my 725 lb. bike so you can expect that proportionately with your GW but I guess that's the trade off for the tight fit.
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If you have a fat front tire vs a skinny one, you can take a hi-lift jack or something similar and spread the arms of the chock apart a little. The ratchet strap will still snug the tire into the chock, but when you release the strap, the tire will back out easier.
Check out the B&W Biker Bar system--pricey but very effective, and easier to lock the bike down. Good luck!
__________________
2015 XLR Hyperlite 30HFS5 (mods being performed regularly)
2009 Salem LA 292fkds (gone)
Nights- ('12)23 ('13)23 ('14)15 ('15)31 ('16)27 ('17) 20 (‘18)21 (‘19)23
2019 Honda CRV (camping support vehicle)
2014 Harley Davidson FLHX (XLR cargo)
2011 Ram 2500 CC 4X4 CTD, B&W Companion (toy hauler hauler)
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07-01-2015, 07:44 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: N.E. Fl.
Posts: 110
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Hope to see ya
Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle
Nice pic... I'm getting ready today for Ft. Clinch SP (Fernandina Bch, FL)
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We'll be there 6-10 July...
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07-01-2015, 07:50 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Using the board looks good. The HF model saves money when compared with the Condor. I leave straps fairly loose but don't rely on hooks. I use a quick link (chain link) at each end for peace of mind.
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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07-01-2015, 10:50 AM
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#33
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 40
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Thanks for the feedback. Taranwanderer: I don't think the chock is pinching the front tire. The difficulty is in getting the back gate of the chock to flip back with the weight of the bike on it. I did look at the Biker Bar but I don't believe it will work with my Honda as the engine is significantly lower than the lower frame rails. Wolwhistle: That Condor is pricey! I like the quick link as well and used it on the front straps. The cheapos on the back don't have it (I need to replace them).
Wishing each of you a great 4th of July. The news of the day has me focusing more on what it represents.
Also, thanks to everyone who contributes to this forum. The ideas and input are priceless.
Jeff
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07-01-2015, 02:38 PM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: mcdonald pa
Posts: 54
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hello all, hey thanks for all the input and tips, my gw has reverse so getting out of the chock should be painfree, this is all new to me never trailered a bike before so thanks again to all. I hope I don't have to get a smaller bike or a bigger truck l.o.l. take care joe
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07-02-2015, 06:22 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 8
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You have to really jack the nose up, use extra blocks if you have to, and get the ass of trailer as low as possible. Yes I learned the hard way, have a slammed bagger with extended fender and bags and didnt make it off ramp, had the fender buried in the dirt. Thankfully was very grassy soft dirt
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07-02-2015, 06:35 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlrmac
Nice setup. I wish my TT took my bike with us to, but the 4 bunks in the back get kids instead .
I did notice the large blocks you have under the front scissors. Is it a lot more stable that way instead of down farther on those 'yellow legos'? I have those and could use something more stable and I know my DW would love it if it were more stable.
Thanks,
Karl
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I've found the Bal-X wheel chocks stop 99% (not actual results ) of fore and aft movement, then the stock stabs do pretty good. Mine is okay with just this. I used to carry an 8x8 for each stab but all the timber is a lot of weight to carry. I'm happy with light plastic pads and the Bal-X
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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07-02-2015, 08:41 PM
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#37
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2014 XLR 27HFS
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubbynico
You have to really jack the nose up, use extra blocks if you have to, and get the ass of trailer as low as possible. Yes I learned the hard way, have a slammed bagger with extended fender and bags and didnt make it off ramp, had the fender buried in the dirt. Thankfully was very grassy soft dirt
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I feel your pain. Learned the hard way, banging the bags and scraping the frame. When loading and unloading the bike now, I put the tongue jack all the way up, lower the stabilizing jacks, and - depending on the camp site - put the below under the ramp to lift it 12".
__________________
Dave & Audrey
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07-03-2015, 06:28 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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More than one way to skin a cat, so to speak.
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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07-03-2015, 06:32 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 198
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dave961...where did you get those?
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07-03-2015, 07:54 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisTD
dave961...where did you get those?
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At the ramp gettin' place, I bet. I see something like this on Amazon, but only lifts 6.5"
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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