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Old 06-30-2015, 09:45 AM   #21
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how high did you raise the door from the ground? Thank you I appreciate your help.
Slick130,
Actually have three answers here. #1 when I loaded the bike at home, the door was on the ground. My driveway is pitched enough that the ramp was not that steep. #2 when I unloaded at the campground. The road was pretty flat, so I had to place a few 6x6's across the door (only one high...5.5 inches...) and then just rolled down the ramp. #3 when I loaded the bike at that campground, I just raised the nose of the camper (via the electric tongue jack...). I went pretty high but was able to keep the door on the ground.

The key for me was not to "sit" on the bike and instead drive the bike up the ramp with both feet walking up the ramp as I straddled the bike. This gave me the clearance at the top of the ramp but still gave me control of the bike (feathering the clutch and brake...).

I would highly recommend "testing" out these procedures in your driveway or street. Better to know what you need and how to do it when you are at home then when you are at the campground and you don't have the supplies you need...
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by stevejd235 View Post
Slick130,
Actually have three answers here. #1 when I loaded the bike at home, the door was on the ground. My driveway is pitched enough that the ramp was not that steep. #2 when I unloaded at the campground. The road was pretty flat, so I had to place a few 6x6's across the door (only one high...5.5 inches...) and then just rolled down the ramp. #3 when I loaded the bike at that campground, I just raised the nose of the camper (via the electric tongue jack...). I went pretty high but was able to keep the door on the ground.

The key for me was not to "sit" on the bike and instead drive the bike up the ramp with both feet walking up the ramp as I straddled the bike. This gave me the clearance at the top of the ramp but still gave me control of the bike (feathering the clutch and brake...).

I would highly recommend "testing" out these procedures in your driveway or street. Better to know what you need and how to do it when you are at home then when you are at the campground and you don't have the supplies you need...
Thanks for the information. I appreciate your time and trouble. Ride safe and happy camping.
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Old 06-30-2015, 01:15 PM   #23
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Thanks for the information. I appreciate your time and trouble. Ride safe and happy camping.
Anytime. This site has given me so much information and help. It's only appropriate that I give back...
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:26 PM   #24
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Unless i really crank it up (the tongue) and I have a swing back 6" foot so I can take it pretty high, I take me weight off the seat as I reach the scrapping point. Or, i would scrap. It also helped when I set the bikes shock preload for more weight. I posted an idea on here as well adding an incline to the ramp. You could fashion a ramp extension attach with a hinge and space the ramp up.. say 12" up off the ground with a 3 foot wide ext. . I did this on a 21RR Greywolf. The ext has to be stout. A 1/4" alumninun plate might work Too bad FR doesn't put the slanted floor on these models. Dove tail I think they call it.
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Old 06-30-2015, 04:06 PM   #25
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Agreed....a dove tail would solve the scraping problem. But you would have the back ~2 feet of your garage at a slope. Something I would rather live with than the scraping or creative ways to raise the trailer/ramp....
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:20 PM   #26
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Heading out for the first time with my bike this weekend as well. Used the Harbor Freight Chock. Fastened it to a 2x4 with holes cut to fit over the front tie downs. Loaded fine with trailer level Nitro 31fqsl has dovetail. Full load of water on as well for State Park close to home. Go ahead and critique this setup. Headed out for longer trip later in the month and need to get the bugs worked out.

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Old 06-30-2015, 10:57 PM   #27
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hi jeff, hey is that the Pittsburgh wheel chock at hf, there on sale now for 59.00 was going to pick one up this weekend, what do you think of it ? only thing I have been hauling is bikes so far ( pedal l.o.l. ) but I have been wanting to stick my gl1800 in it to try it out, we pulled a aspen popup for lots of miles with the gl but the wife wasn't up to long trips on the bike anymore so we went the 24fqsl route. thanks joe
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:59 AM   #28
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It is the Pittsburgh 1800 lb. model from HF. I just received mine yesterday. I adjusted and tested prior to putting it in the TH. It does lock the wheel in nicely and feels secure. It is a little tough to back out of with my 725 lb. bike so you can expect that proportionately with your GW but I guess that's the trade off for the tight fit. The way I set it up, it uses the tie downs in the TH as stops but is completely removeable.

Jeff
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:17 AM   #29
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Mainous,
I use the same chock in my 29HFS. I should have taken pictures... but used the TH tie downs for the triple tree, wrapped the rear tire with ratchet straps and used a small ratchet strap to "snug" the front tire into the chock. Drove about 70 miles on the freeway and some back roads. The bike did not move at all.

Next time, I will take pictures...
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:27 AM   #30
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It is a little tough to back out of with my 725 lb. bike so you can expect that proportionately with your GW but I guess that's the trade off for the tight fit.
If you have a fat front tire vs a skinny one, you can take a hi-lift jack or something similar and spread the arms of the chock apart a little. The ratchet strap will still snug the tire into the chock, but when you release the strap, the tire will back out easier.

Check out the B&W Biker Bar system--pricey but very effective, and easier to lock the bike down. Good luck!
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