Mounting motorcycle wheel chocks

[coderider]

I picked up a pair of chocks from harbor freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...ock-97841.html). The price is great and the hold a Honda VTX 1300 and 1800 rock solid.

[10x]

Originally Posted by coderider

I picked up a pair of chocks from harbor freight (Motorcycle Stand / Wheel Chock). The price is great and the hold a Honda VTX 1300 and 1800 rock solid.

How do you have them mounted in the trailer?
Do have them bolted down?

[coderider]

Originally Posted by 10x

How do you have them mounted in the trailer?
Do have them bolted down?

Don't have them bolted down. Ratchet strap the rings front/back to the toy hauler tie downs to keep it from moving around. Also strap the bike handle bars like normal to the floor tie downs and the rear tire like you would on a trailer.

Sits tight.

[10x]

Originally Posted by coderider

Don't have them bolted down. Ratchet strap the rings front/back to the toy hauler tie downs to keep it from moving around. Also strap the bike handle bars like normal to the floor tie downs and the rear tire like you would on a trailer.

Sits tight.

If you can, can you please post some picks of how you have your bike tied down. I would like to use an option where I don't have to bolt them down. Plus thats a great price.

[coderider]

Originally Posted by 10x

If you can, can you please post some picks of how you have your bike tied down. I would like to use an option where I don't have to bolt them down. Plus thats a great price.

Next time we put them in will try to remember to et those pix.

[10x]

Originally Posted by coderider

Don't have them bolted down. Ratchet strap the rings front/back to the toy hauler tie downs to keep it from moving around. Also strap the bike handle bars like normal to the floor tie downs and the rear tire like you would on a trailer.

Sits tight.

When you ratchet them down do you only use the 2 eyelets the chocks come with, or did you add 2 more?

[1l243]

I looked under my buddies XLR and if I remember right the sealed underbelly looked like a nylon web type material? Is there enough slack in the material to push up on that material from underneath and touch the bottom of the plywood floor? The condor mounting bracket comes with approx 5" long tapered pan head screws. If they are not long enough you could get some longer ones that would push through the underbelley material, use fender washers and then cut off the excess once tight.

As mentioned above watch out for water tanks......

I have the Condor wheel chock and it's a nice chock.

Harbor Freight does sell a similar style roll in locking chock for a lot less money but it does not have the mounting plate like the Condor..

[coderider]

Originally Posted by 10x

When you ratchet them down do you only use the 2 eyelets the chocks come with, or did you add 2 more?

Use the ones on the chocks, didn't add anything. Could probably get away just timing those rings to the rear tied owns since the handlebars are tied down to the front ones. With the bike in that thing is very snug.

[pjones1969]

Not a wheel chock but I use the B&W Biker Bar, its nice, due to the location of the freshwater tank and fuel cell in the Puma 27sbu this worked out to be 3 inches off of the fuel cell wall, I drilled all the way through and made some flush mount hardware so I can take it out if we go without the bike.

http://www.turnoverball.com/products/motorcycle

[10x]

Originally Posted by pjones1969

Not a wheel chock but I use the B&W Biker Bar, its nice, due to the location of the freshwater tank and fuel cell in the Puma 27sbu this worked out to be 3 inches off of the fuel cell wall, I drilled all the way through and made some flush mount hardware so I can take it out if we go without the bike.

Motorcycle Trailering | B & W Trailer Hitches

Does it come with the removable hardware?

[pjones1969]

It comes with two flat plates with nuts welded to them that you can screw underneath, more suited for a covered trailer with no insulation, here is what I made





5/8" all thread rod, a rod coupling, washers and cap screws, underneath a used a 3" c-channel as a backer and sandwiched everything in there, worked out great.

[10x]

Originally Posted by pjones1969

It comes with two flat plates with nuts welded to them that you can screw underneath, more suited for a covered trailer with no insulation, here is what I made





5/8" all thread rod, a rod coupling, washers and cap screws, underneath a used a 3" c-channel as a backer and sandwiched everything in there, worked out great.

Thanks

[Thebottlesniper]

Seems that there cannot be anything under the garage floor but light wiring. I would assume that the wiring was attached to a frame rail, and likely on the perimeter. For removable requirements an expanding anchor that will grip the floor material should work. For permanent mounts a togglebolt would be more secure unless you can fond a way to locate the floor joists, that is.
Having said all that rest assured that i have never mounted anything in a toy hauler garage, so take my suggestions as just that. I beleive that i would avoid disturbing the insulation and belly sheathing. I intend to toggle bolt tiedowns to the floor to secure a side by side when the time comes to load up. As of now i am awaiting delivery.......

[Top B]

Originally Posted by ENCS

We purchased a 386x12 XLR Thunderbolt last year and it has the under bellie covered with a thick plastic/insulation. I want to mount a motorcycle wheel chock so I can start taking the bike with us. Does anyone know exactly what it takes to mount a chock. What is involved in dropping the plastic and insulation and what else is under it that would have to be removed to mount a chock. Or can the chock be installed another way. I have read that some people have not secured the chocks and have done ok. Not so sure I like that idea. Any help on this would be great.

Thanks,
Jim

I use this wheel chock. It has a hard mount plate and the mount easily disconnnects from it so you wont be tripping over it when you don't need it. I use it on my full dresser and have never had a problem. The plate mounts with 4 bolts. I drilled 4 holes through the trailer floor, used a carpet knife to slice a hole large enough to reach into through the plastic vapor barrier, pushed the insulation away, and tightened the mount down. When I was done, I replaced the insulation and taped the vapor barrier with sealant tape.

[10x]

Originally Posted by Top B

I use this wheel chock. It has a hard mount plate and the mount easily disconnnects from it so you wont be tripping over it when you don't need it. I use it on my full dresser and have never had a problem. The plate mounts with 4 bolts. I drilled 4 holes through the trailer floor, used a carpet knife to slice a hole large enough to reach into through the plastic vapor barrier, pushed the insulation away, and tightened the mount down. When I was done, I replaced the insulation and taped the vapor barrier with sealant tape.

This too is a nice setup. What are you using to tie down the rear of the bike?

[Thebottlesniper]

Well, uh, er , hey,that will work too.

[Top B]

Originally Posted by 10x

This too is a nice setup. What are you using to tie down the rear of the bike?

I tie it down from my rear crash bars to the tie down rings. You could also tie it down from the frame or rear wheel. The stand keeps the bike upright and I use 2 straps in the front attached to the upper frame to keep it from leaning. They also sell a strap for the front tire that goes under the stand, but it wont keep the bike from leaning durring transport (learned that the hard way). I use the frame because it is a full dresser, otherwise you can use the handlebars. On my wife's bike, I wrap a strap around the rear tire and connect to 2 tie-downs. I also wired a back up camera inside the trailer so I can see the bikes as we travel. Never had a problem, but for peace of mind, I like to see what's going on back there. Sorry I don't have photos.

[10x]

Originally Posted by Top B

I tie it down from my rear crash bars to the tie down rings. You could also tie it down from the frame or rear wheel. The stand keeps the bike upright and I use 2 straps in the front attached to the upper frame to keep it from leaning. They also sell a strap for the front tire that goes under the stand, but it wont keep the bike from leaning durring transport (learned that the hard way). I use the frame because it is a full dresser, otherwise you can use the handlebars. On my wife's bike, I wrap a strap around the rear tire and connect to 2 tie-downs. I also wired a back up camera inside the trailer so I can see the bikes as we travel. Never had a problem, but for peace of mind, I like to see what's going on back there. Sorry I don't have photos.

I saw that front strap too, I was wondering how well it worked. I probably will also use the front engine guard or frame and the rear crash bars around my hardbags on my roadking. I can use the front engine guard on my wifes softail and maybe the rear wheel unless I find a good spot on the frame.

I thought the front strap was a good idea because it would not compress the front suspension...oh well.

[Top B]

Originally Posted by 10x

I thought the front strap was a good idea because it would not compress the front suspension...oh well.

My thoughts exactly! I think it would be more for a static bike, plus you have to remove the plate to remove it or it will be a trip hazard,so there is really no point in using it to travel with. I used it once without the front straps. Went about 20 miles and checked the bike (1st time with the bike inside). The bike was leaning to the right with th handle bar in the wall (corkboard to the rescue). I traveled over 5,000 on one trip last summer with no problems. You dont need to compress the shocks much, just enough to keep the straps tight and the bike straight. Takes less than a minute to remove or install the chock when traveling, once the base is permently installed. It is a well made product. I had a friend buy another brand that hard mounted and most of the welds broke on one of his trips.

[10x]

Originally Posted by Top B

My thoughts exactly! I think it would be more for a static bike, plus you have to remove the plate to remove it or it will be a trip hazard,so there is really no point in using it to travel with. I used it once without the front straps. Went about 20 miles and checked the bike (1st time with the bike inside). The bike was leaning to the right with th handle bar in the wall (corkboard to the rescue). I traveled over 5,000 on one trip last summer with no problems. You dont need to compress the shocks much, just enough to keep the straps tight and the bike straight. Takes less than a minute to remove or install the chock when traveling, once the base is permently installed. It is a well made product. I had a friend buy another brand that hard mounted and most of the welds broke on one of his trips.

So, I shouldn't waste money on the front strap kit?