hope you like your new toy hauler
I also have a 29HFS I've been camping for years and pulling trailers for more years. You didn't say what you are going to tow with, but I assume it is at least a 3/4 ton... if you did, I missed it. This 29 is a big 'gal' for a tag-a-long. Here is my take on the basics you will need to get started and a few things that might help. ^^^Water hoses (the advice for a 10 and 25 sounds good), but I have a 35' and got it at Wally World. ^^^I don't use the toilet if I don't have to... cleaning the black tank is the nastiest part of camping^^^^ I have the Rhino sewer hose and with the extension in place (and I leave it in place) it is 35', total I think. It is a good hose. I also use the clear 45 degree elbow that I fasten to the trailer dump tube first. You can see how clear the waste is coming out, to know when flushing is done. ^^^You know to not open your black valve until you are ready to dump. Also, don't have a grey dump valve open the same time the black is open. I don't know how important it is, but I want to keep black out of the grey. I let the black tank fill up before dumping it... to about 2/3 and then dump it. You will notice the poorly placed dump valve locations... it is what it is. If you got the option, you have a black tank flush, this is handy for cleaning the black tank.... dump it completely then flush till 1/3 or more full... the dump again; repeat until the water runs fairly clear. You can go for several days before dumping the black if properly treated. Then dump the grey... closing the black valve. Then I close all valves, remove the sewer hose and using water to flush the sewer hose some more. I know people who don't use any chemicals in the black tank and don't have smells, but I like the stuff that smells nice.^^^ You have to have a place to store the sewer hose, I use a large plastic storage bin (Walmart); the Rhino compressess and stores easily. ^^^ Have latex gloves for handling sewer hoses and try not to contaminate any of your water hose parts. I handle the power cord and water hoses first! ^^^ Definitely have a pressure regulator for the water supply. ^^^ Definitely have a surge protector and fault protector! Power at CGs are not always the best. I use one from Progressive, that is much more than a surge protector. ^^^^ The power cord for you unit is 30 amp and comes with it. Be sure you have it before leaving the dealer. I always carry and extra 25' (or is it 30') 30 AMP RV cord and got it at, you guessed it, Wally World. I also carry 110v (Nema 15) adapter to 30 Amp as well as 50 amp adapter, but have never used the 50 ^^^You should be getting a deep cycle battery from the dealer and its a group 24 size, usually. You don't have break-away brakes without an on-board battery so insist on it. If you have the rack on front like mine, it is made to hold up to 2 group 24s in battery boxes on the rack, but the rack can also hold a generator and or more batteries. Two batteries is probably the way to go, but see how one works for you first. By the way, a deep cycle battery isn't about cold cranking amps (CCA), that's for cars and trucks. Deep cycle is about amp hour or AH... the more the better. But, don't buy more than you will need. I won't get into the debate between two 6 volt vs. two 12 volt, since either method works. One battery is all you have to have. The 29HFS has mounts on the generator rack on the tongue... always keep the battery in a plastic box bolted and strapped down. ^^^ If you are storing your trailer without shore power disconnect the battery (or batteries) since the CD detector will run it down. Some people take off the battery and keep it charged at home. I have my trailer powered all the time at home; this keeps the battery charged, but might over-charge it... and run it out of water. Check the water in the battery often. ^^^Also good advice from members on the WDH. I use a Reese Dual-Cam with 1200# bars. It is just one way to do it, but you will need the hitch adjusted to work properly and a anti-sway device. The tongue weight is at least (haven't weighed it) around 1200 - 1400 lbs empty. The Dual-Cam works great when adjusted properly... I get almost no sway when passed by large vehicles... you can feel a sway... but just keep driving straight and don't over-react to this motion. It is best to travel with about the same load so the WDH set up stays about the same. ^^^Make sure the dealer has the tires at the properly inflation... should be 65# cold. ^^^ Carry a lug wrench (or torque wrench is correct with 3/4 socket) and check wheel lugs at 50 miles... then about every 100 miles for a few times. I checked mine and they needed tightening up to about 400 miles and at 3000 miles I did it again just to be sure. If they are like mine the spec is 100 lb/ft of torque. Don't ever let anyone over-tighten a wheel with an air wrench ^^^I carry a small Honda generator so it can be place away from the camper and on the ground. I don't expect it to power the AC, so it works for me. You just have to turn on one larger draw appliance at a time. If I know I am staying at a CG with power I don't bring it. ^^^ Before leaving the dealer after making sure everything works and you know how to work it all., have them leave you enough water in the fresh tank for you to potty and have for washing... I usually carry around 20 gallons. If this is a new unit, the water in the fresh tank will smell like plastic for a while. I filled mine up twice now and can still smell a little, but I wouldn't drink it at first.^^^ remember to lower the TV antenna before leaving each time (you may or may not have a TV, but you might have to remove the TV from the mount before traveling or make a way to strap it... that's what I did. ^^^ the water heater can be run on AC, but if you have shore power, don't run on gas, but you might not know the switch for the water heater 110v power is at the water heater on the outside. The WH is the large panel on the door side...^^^ also lock doors and hatches before traveling and remember store you steps. ^^^ another good point is before bring your slide in OR out, make sure the cabinet door and drawers are closed first. Also, I try to be sure nothing is on the top of the slide. A larger stick or pine cone can tear a seal.^^^ I have Bal X-chocks and love them. Chock before unhitching and remember to remove chocks before driving off... this would hurt a tire!^^^ I take a dozen 2x8s cut into 12" lengths and a 12" block of 8x8 to put the tongue jack on^^^ Like members said, this is a long trailer... you have to swing wide and watch it. Having someone watching you back up and even pull through in tight places is a good idea. Especially challenging is finding gas stations that I can get into and out of. I try to fill up before a trip before hooking up and will pay more at truck stop for fuel and don't worry about getting into trouble at gas stations not designed for this kind of length. I want to get a wired camera for the back (wireless I don't like) and tire pressure monitors for the tires, but one thing at a time! Sorry for the length of this, but hope you get something out of it.. and read this in time for your first trip. Please be careful and fit some fun time in there somewhere! Wolf
XLR Hyperlite 29HFS
Ram 2500 6.7L CTD
A Modder's work is never done!