I bought a 2013 XLR 27HFS from Cheyenne Camping Center in Walcott, IA on April 19, 2013. I barely used the camper last year due to having a new child. This year I prep the camper for taking on the very first road trip of the year, Memorial Weekend, from Central IA to NE KS. On the way home from KS, the wheel bearing went out on the rear axle causing me to leave the camper in western Iowa. I called Cheyenne to tell them about the problem and after doing some research they tell me I will have to pay for part of the axles ($200) and labor myself. I have owned the camper for 1 year 1 month and 6 days and this happens. My opinion is between the axle vendor, which their bearing failed, and Forest River they need to foot the whole bill to have my camper fixed. I was informed this will not happen due to the 1 year warranty being up.
Sorry to read about your problem. I was lucky and checked mine right after purchase. I posted a thread about the bearings set up loose and very little grease from the factory. I sure understand where your coming from just over 1 year old and a problem without any warranty.
Just be thankful it could have been alot worse.
Most pack the bearings at least once a year or at the begining of the season. I'm due and because of time constraints I went to a local dealer to get a price on packing the bearings, $350.00 plus parts. I think I'll make time.
Good luck
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John And Mary
2016 Venom 3311TQ
2013 CHEVROLET 2500 6.6 DURAMAX
I bought a 2013 XLR 27HFS from Cheyenne Camping Center in Walcott, IA on April 19, 2013. I barely used the camper last year due to having a new child. This year I prep the camper for taking on the very first road trip of the year, Memorial Weekend, from Central IA to NE KS. On the way home from KS, the wheel bearing went out on the rear axle causing me to leave the camper in western Iowa. I called Cheyenne to tell them about the problem and after doing some research they tell me I will have to pay for part of the axles ($200) and labor myself. I have owned the camper for 1 year 1 month and 6 days and this happens. My opinion is between the axle vendor, which their bearing failed, and Forest River they need to foot the whole bill to have my camper fixed. I was informed this will not happen due to the 1 year warranty being up.
With that being said, what do I do?
If you subscribe to Trailer Life maybe they can do something. They serve as advocates on difficult situations, like yours. And, having how well they treat the customer written for "all the world to see", motivates many dealers / manufacturers to go above and beyond what they have to do, legally.
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Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
Jacking up the trailer, spinning the wheels while adding a high quality grease to the zerk on the end of the hub a couple of times per year can make a big difference. Then repack every third year. Jacking and adding grease can be done in less than 30 minutes.
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2017 Salem Hemisphere 326RL
2009 Chevy Silveraldo 2500
Jacking up the trailer, spinning the wheels while adding a high quality grease to the zerk on the end of the hub a couple of times per year can make a big difference. Then repack every third year. Jacking and adding grease can be done in less than 30 minutes.
This is what I do too.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Trailer axles/bearings aren't like car wheel bearings that can go a while without maintenance. I am surprised they are giving you anything. I do like above, grease every year and repack every 3 or so. I also check the hub temps pretty much every rest or fuel stop. You also have to be careful not to over grease, as you can blow out the rear seal and get grease on the brake drums. This will cause a loss of brakes! This is one of those things many dealers don't tell new trailer owners...
there is no way on this planet a tapered roller bearing should fail in the time frame posted by the OP. It either was over pre-loaded,(bearing nut over-tightened) or was not lubricated to begin with. a tapered roller bearing requires .002 pre-load, and once packed with grease shouldn't require grease for years. If they have grease fitting then yeah you should give em a few pumps a year. BUT once they are grease there is now way they would fail in a few thousand miles....NO ONE i camp with has lubed theirs in 2 years and you my friend simply have a defective assembly, but then you already knew that.
[QUOTE=wilem;647922]do your wheels get grease streaks on them? then a few pumps per wheel per year.[/QUOTE
No I don't have any streaks, but I checked mine right after purchased. I was doing something and when I pushed on a wheel to stand up I herd a clunk. I then checked the bearings. Several had very little grease and the end play was very loose. One of the "zerk" fittings was broken. Check ball gone and spring sticking out.
Since I checked and packed bearings right after purchase, I will most likely just pump a couple times into each and call it good.
Thanks for the advise.
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John And Mary
2016 Venom 3311TQ
2013 CHEVROLET 2500 6.6 DURAMAX
How do you know how much grease to add without pumping it into the brakes.
Just a couple of pumps?
Too much grease is not the problem; too much pressure is. ALWAYS use a hand grease gun (never air powered). If it is hard to pump; your Zerk fitting has failed and needs cleaning or replacement.
It should go in easy and excess spews out around the outer bearing.
Pump until the dirty grease becomes clean grease and you are done.
Every four or five trips you will get a much longer amount of dirty grease as the inner bearing's dirty grease meets the outer bearings dirty grease.
Normally, the 3 year repack occurs before this does, but if you camp a lot, you will notice it.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Was a second year warranty from FR offered? Would this cover your problem?
Bearing failures are nearly always caused by improper installation (should be covered by the shop who did it) or lack of maintenance (not covered at all).
Installing a bearing too loose can cause a bearing failure without accompanying bearing over temperature. (Happened to me because one failed about 500 miles after it was installed by the shop while on a trip. Caught it just as it failed and kept the wheel on) (Post Script - that is NOT me. That was the mechanic who installed my new break assemblies)
Installing too tight will cause one bearing to run much hotter than the others till failure.
Lack of lubrication (improper grease, hard caked OLD grease, or water intrusion) will also cause a bearing to run hot. Normally you will have 2 or 3 running hot. The hub should be cool to warm to the touch after several hours of high speed traveling. If it is too hot to touch you have a bearing problem.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
I I was informed this will not happen due to the 1 year warranty being up.
With that being said, what do I do?
Pay for your own repairs.
I had to replace all the seals, and tires and the pads, and the wiring. All I got is (it is over the 1 year so pack sand). even had the unit into the dealer 3 times for brake issues and every time all I got was (Nothing wrong) and the factory wanted nothing to do with it
Back to your original post, I bought a 2013 Forest River Work and Play. It was 7 months old when I bought it. Forest River-Work and Play would not honor the 12 month warranty because I was not the original owner. Talk about not standing behind your product! I just signed up to vent a little when I saw your post.
I'd be curious too see if they do anything to help you out. Good luck!
Wolfwhistle, I use a marine grade grease for the simple reason I already have some on hand for my boat trailer. While water submersion should not be an issue on an rv, you get a little extra protection that way too. Interested to hear if there is a better type though.
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