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Old 06-04-2016, 01:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
The OP has not stated he has two INSIDE switches and could very well just have one. There has been a lot of confusion as of late as to which model Suburban water heaters members have

If there is only one inside switch, it's a model SWDE

If there are two inside switches, then it's a model SWDEL

We need to always make sure which model Suburban we are discussing, so as to tailor the advice correct. It will just confuse members more if we offer advice for one, when it's the other one they actually have.

The link in post# 2 here tells these differences in models.

I understand that now. The way the first post/response was written led me to believe he has 2 switches inside but I see that is not the case.

Please disregard my posts since the OP only has 1 switch.
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Old 06-04-2016, 02:09 PM   #22
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No Heating in the DSI mode

You are still not getting it. If you want to heat with electric only, then turn the master switch panel to off. It controls only the propane and has nothing to do with heating on electric. To heat with electric flip the switch on the water heater itself. Sounds like you have been using both all of these years. To solve your problem simply turn off your master switch and never turn it back on again. What you are calling the master switch is really the propane switch.


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Old 06-04-2016, 02:37 PM   #23
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After reading the three pages of this thread, I'm just respectfully asking if the electric switch locking pin is still installed and the OP thinks he is switching the electric side on by having resistance when supposedly pushing the switch.
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Old 06-04-2016, 02:43 PM   #24
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There are also 2 high limit switches on the side of the tank near the top. One is for 110v and the other for propane. Press them both and they should stay IN.
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Old 06-09-2016, 01:00 PM   #25
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dgibbs1955, did you get your situation resolved?
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:25 AM   #26
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No Heating in the DSI mode

Mr. Dan; I have determined that my "new" heating element is bad, for whatever reason. I will replace it when winterizing again later this year.

B47; The resistance I felt when pushing the switch is not being caused by a pin inserted through the switch. My switch does not have that "hole" for one reason and the other is that I am not blind, but thanks for your input.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:46 AM   #27
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dgibbs,
Hopefully you've come to understand how your water heater functions from all the posts and links.

I will only add two things...

1. Turning off the propane bottles (but not the INSIDE switch on the control panel) isn't the way to keep from using propane. You MUST turn off the switch on the control panel as well.

You stated several times the DSL FLT light was on.
The reason being, the water heater tried to light on propane (because you left the control panel switch on) but it couldn't light because there was no propane available (bottles closed) and went into FLT (fault) mode. Simply turn off the bottles AND the control panel switch and it will never try to use propane.

2. I suggest you replace your outside switch that controls your electric element when you replace what is now your 2nd electric element.

You've stated it has some resistance when pushing it. That resistance is likely caused because the switch is partially burned up. Even though it checks good with a meter, it isn't uncommon for that switch to burn out (or partially melt) when an electric element goes bad.
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Old 06-10-2016, 11:47 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgibbs1955 View Post
Mr. Dan; I have determined that my "new" heating element is bad, for whatever reason. I will replace it when winterizing again later this year.



B47; The resistance I felt when pushing the switch is not being caused by a pin inserted through the switch. My switch does not have that "hole" for one reason and the other is that I am not blind, but thanks for your input.
Thanks for the update. Be well.
Dan


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Old 06-10-2016, 01:28 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgibbs1955 View Post
Mr. Dan; I have determined that my "new" heating element is bad, for whatever reason. I will replace it when winterizing again later this year.

B47; The resistance I felt when pushing the switch is not being caused by a pin inserted through the switch. My switch does not have that "hole" for one reason and the other is that I am not blind, but thanks for your input.
I did "respectfully" offer my suggestion with no offense intended. As far as your WH not having either the pin hole or the pin,all I can say is your RV must be equipped with a different type of WH than most of us are familiar with.

Glad you found your problem.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:59 PM   #30
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I may have missed the following if mentioned earlier in the thread...if so, I apologize in advance.

Make sure your breaker for the water heater is on as well as the switch on the water heater itself. If either of those 2 is off, no electric water heating.
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