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Old 06-16-2016, 07:45 PM   #1
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Pocket Doors on 29 HFS

The front rollers on both pocket doors on my 29HFS have now broken. There is a plastic insert the rollers pin goes in and it just falls apart. I fixed the first one with parts from Home Depot and since it came in a package of two I have another to fix the second door. Cheap parts from the factory! Anyone else have issues with this?

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Old 06-17-2016, 08:58 AM   #2
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Yes same with my doors, I simply put a thin metal washer in there, I guess I'll see how long it lasts.

If it doesn't last very long I think I'm going to simply remove the doors as others have done. We really don't need the doors since our kids sleep in the garage.
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Old 06-17-2016, 03:21 PM   #3
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Mine came in that way


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Old 07-22-2016, 11:18 AM   #4
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One of mine broke and I've added a C clip to the pin, slid it into the slot and then used a wire tie to keep it from pressing against the metal catch while locking the catch into place. The first time I fixed it I left the wire tie off and it didn't make it one trip.

Replacements are easily available online but I figure if it broke once a new one will too. I can rebuild it. Better. Stronger. Faster. The 6 cent repair.
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:59 PM   #5
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My 17 29hfs is the same and door got destroyed. Still waiting on "parts"
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:07 PM   #6
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mine is currently poped off and can't get the piece hanging down to pop back into the door. not much room in there. any tips?
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:53 PM   #7
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Gently pry off the wood header that hides the track. That will give you more room to get the pin back in. Then just carefully line up the staple and tap the header back in with a rubber mallet. Do not use a hammer!
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:16 PM   #8
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Mine did the same thing so I fixed it by myself without removing any trim pieces. I recommend a step stool and a second person to gently lift the door while you take a small screwdriver and push the roller out of the slot. I went on Amazon and purchased new hangers that have metal clips so they won't break like the white plastic ones.
If you want more detail just let me know and I can possibly make a video showing how to do it.
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Old 08-04-2016, 06:52 AM   #9
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Messed around with mine for about 30 minutes the other night, still cant get it back on.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:20 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by ricky836 View Post
Messed around with mine for about 30 minutes the other night, still cant get it back on.
First, did you either get the replacement hardware or add a c-clip to the pin in the track. Once the plastic color breaks out of the piece on the door it will never stay put. The pin will slide in and pop right back out the top.

Second, I know a poster after me said you can do it without removing the header. I'm sure it can be done. I've seen people get the ring on the bottle in the carnival toss. Just not very often.

By removing the header and standing on a step stool or ladder you should be able to see the slot to get it lined up. I added a 1/4" or 5/16" c-clip to my pin. Then slid it all the way into the slot until it reached the back of the channel. Then I pushed the arm on the door part of the bracket back across the pin to hold it.

It failed.

The arm came off the pin again on the first trip. So I did all of the above again, including removing the header to see and get my big ole paws in there to work and after I had it all together again I used a bread twist tie to secure the little arm so it can't slide off again. After replacing the header you can't see it. I keep meaning to order a new bracket to do a proper fix, but it's really not a problem. I've now towed 400+ miles over Pennsylvania roads without it coming out again.

I'd have taken photos but I did all this before I saw this thread. Sorry.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:38 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by JCCarr View Post
First, did you either get the replacement hardware or add a c-clip to the pin in the track. Once the plastic color breaks out of the piece on the door it will never stay put. The pin will slide in and pop right back out the top.

Second, I know a poster after me said you can do it without removing the header. I'm sure it can be done. I've seen people get the ring on the bottle in the carnival toss. Just not very often.

By removing the header and standing on a step stool or ladder you should be able to see the slot to get it lined up. I added a 1/4" or 5/16" c-clip to my pin. Then slid it all the way into the slot until it reached the back of the channel. Then I pushed the arm on the door part of the bracket back across the pin to hold it.

It failed.

The arm came off the pin again on the first trip. So I did all of the above again, including removing the header to see and get my big ole paws in there to work and after I had it all together again I used a bread twist tie to secure the little arm so it can't slide off again. After replacing the header you can't see it. I keep meaning to order a new bracket to do a proper fix, but it's really not a problem. I've now towed 400+ miles over Pennsylvania roads without it coming out again.

I'd have taken photos but I did all this before I saw this thread. Sorry.


The plastic piece is not broken on mine, I can still see it inside and it looks fine to me, I can get it in but can swing that little latch/lock looking thing to swing over, I would like to take off the header but I cant see how it comes apart, it looks like my whole door frame has to come off. I cant see any staples on the inside by the bed but I can see where its stapled on the outside.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:47 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by STLfan View Post
Attachment 115433Attachment 115436

Mine did the same thing so I fixed it by myself without removing any trim pieces. I recommend a step stool and a second person to gently lift the door while you take a small screwdriver and push the roller out of the slot. I went on Amazon and purchased new hangers that have metal clips so they won't break like the white plastic ones.
If you want more detail just let me know and I can possibly make a video showing how to do it.
My doors have this exact mostly metal hardware. Looking at my sliders, I noticed how out of adjustment they have been, so I adjusted them... what a pita. WW
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:17 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by ricky836 View Post
The plastic piece is not broken on mine, I can still see it inside and it looks fine to me, I can get it in but can swing that little latch/lock looking thing to swing over, I would like to take off the header but I cant see how it comes apart, it looks like my whole door frame has to come off. I cant see any staples on the inside by the bed but I can see where its stapled on the outside.
Mine was stapled on while the door trim was off at the factory. I used a gentle back and forth motion to loosen it and the pried it off with a pry bar against a putty knife so that it would mar or dent the wood. Then I bent the prongs of staples back into their original position and lined the header back up so the staples where going back into the same holes and gently tapped it back into place with a rubber mallet and cloth to again ensure no marring.
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Old 08-04-2016, 04:10 PM   #14
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I see the header trim is stapled on ... mine too. I thought about prying off (bedroom side) like you did but cut the staples off and screw it back on ... either way, it won't be hard to get off next time.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:15 AM   #15
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Had to add a metal washer to one of my pocket doors. I ended up taking off the modeling (on the bedroom side...). Slow and steady and the thin staples and/or nails came out pretty easy. I did re-nail the trim backup with my air nailer but if I had to do it again, I would use screws.

It's amazing how many items are installed with the cheapest of material. I get trying to save money and weight. I would rather pay extra $$$ and lose some cargo weight to have a better built trailer.

Just saying...
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