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Old 09-23-2016, 11:51 AM   #1
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Power for the things I have in my 29HFS

These were taken by the TM2030 (Bogart Engineering) battery monitor.

Location = power in watts (quantity of lights included in that number - or notes)
Lights
LR = 10 (3)
BR = 7 (2)
Outside the door – now Starlight with motion = 3 (1)
Hood (now Fabulous Product) = 6 (1)
Sink = 3 (1)
Bath – now with LED strip under and inside cabinet = 12 (2+strip)
Garage = 7 (2)
Flood = 101 (2 incandescent - shines unto the ramp)
Outside the door = 3 (1 LED)
Awning = 21 (16’ strip + 2 small step lights – all LED)

Garage fan = 17
Range exhaust fan (Fabulous Product) = 12 (on high) (forgot that it has a low)
Maxxair vent fans = 2 (low) 31 (high)
Awning deploy = 30 (coming in), 25 (out)
Slide operation = 106 (out) 88 (in)??
Happi Jack = 20 (down) 30 (up)
Water Pump = 14 (simply on) 27 (running)
Furnace = 40
Radio – 15 (with sub amp on)
TV = 45
Portable Electric Heater 850 (low) 1500 (high)
Small electric fan = 9 (low) 18 (high)

Inverter on but not inverting = 8 to 44 (while searching for load – not sure why it varies)
Keurig K cup coffee maker = 1670 (manual states 1500)
Fridge on gas = 15
Fridge on AC = 403 (6 cu. Ft Dometic)
Microwave = 1680 (upgraded to convection - manual states 1500)
Water Heater = 1830 (manual states 1440)

I could not measure the AC units but I can guess it could take nearly 2000W (16A) to start each and 1500W (12A) to run each. According to the numbers, less than the Suburban WH above. However running it on the inverter would draw more and those 230Ah I have in reserve not to mention that they will not produce 2850W discharging so very quickly, as they would be.

WW




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Old 09-23-2016, 12:22 PM   #2
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WW,
Always providing valuable information...:thumbup:
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:50 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info. Did you have the propane detector and smoke alarm disconnected when you took these readings? I have the Trimetric Monitor but have never taken the time to check individual items. Kinda curious just how much the parasitics are drawing.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:25 PM   #4
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Great info.

One item puzzles me. You list water pump ( not running ) with drawing current. It is operated by a physical on/off pressure switch so should be binary on or off.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
Great info.

One item puzzles me. You list water pump ( not running ) with drawing current. It is operated by a physical on/off pressure switch so should be binary on or off.
Now that you've said that I agree. But that is what I observed. Dunno.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:27 PM   #6
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If you have a variable speed water pump, it will draw power all the time it's energized, because the drive and electronics stay energized just idling, but not driving the pump.
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:07 PM   #7
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DC Parasitic losses (Which can be removed totally with a properly wired battery cut off, or removing battery cable (negative (-) if I was so inclined), which I cannot advise because, if you forget to switch on or reconnect cable: the breakaway safety switch is disabled, the CO/LP detector disabled and the slide controller unpowered, which as I understand, but didn't prove, could cause the slide to not stay in.

I'm going by the TM-2030 which is not perfect, but is considered very reliable; it is optioned to read watts so I didn't have to do the math. It is reading current flow across an instrument grade 500A/50mV shunt, via kelvin connections; and is the only path from the battery bank's negative to ground. The meter does bounce. So, I am showing the settled down, highest reading.

Solar and Inverter been off... staying off.
1) Pulled all fuses from the WFCO DC distribution panel
2) Disconnected everything from the battery except the TM-2030 = 3.65W shown (that is the meter's own impedance)
3) Connect breakaway still 3.65W
4) Connect slide only reading = 4.15W showing
5) Connect feed to audio amp still 4.15W
5) Connect WFCO DC panel = 6.67W indicated
(note- 3 red "blown fuse" indicators lit which represents a very small load)
6) Bedroom, with Maxxair and CO and LP detector = 6.17W showing (1 indicator off)
7) Bathroom, with the other Maxxair and the basic radio = 6.17W (second indicator off)
8) Third fuse turned off third indicator still 6.17W
9) All fuses in still 6.17W

Conclusion
1) The TM-2030 draws 3.65W
2) The slide controller - .5W
3) The WFCO panel with the CO/LP detector at 2.02W
Note: it doesn't matter to me if the panel itself uses power, or how much the detector uses by itself, they both have to be there and they play well together.
4) No other DC device that I have (to be clear): radio, maxxair fans, happijack, etc., etc. is drawing any DC watts.

The total parasitic loss not considering the TM-2030 with nothing turned on is 2.52W or
.2A (less than 1/4A) With the TM-2030 for those with one, it is 6.17W or less than 1/2 amp.

Note too FlyBob, the water pump isn't showing any current draw when off. I suppose the reading was bouncing or I didn't let it settle down.
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
If you have a variable speed water pump, it will draw power all the time it's energized, because the drive and electronics stay energized just idling, but not driving the pump.
No, I was just rushing and probably didn't let the "off" reading settle down. No current when off.
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