Radio interference solution

[F350TH]

So in my 15 XLR we had a problem with losing the radio when certain lights were on. Dealer figured out it was the blue/white LED lights in the loft. The RF signal those specific lights put out was just right to interfere. They replaced the lights with just white bulbs and a one way switch, no more interference. I've seen it discussed here before. We lost the fancy lights, but no real loss I guess. It also kinda interfered with the TV, but never really use that.

[Karl4Cat]

Interesting find. I'll have to check if mine does the same...

[F350TH]

The dealer and FR spent quite some time figuring it out and said it was a new fixture they had started using. Curious if it's widespread or not.

[SeaDog]

I have an interference problem with the iRV33 when on AM. With my TT in my shop (metal building) and on battery only I get great reception on AM when I shift to shore power I get extreme interference. I'm thinking it coming from the converter, its not the lights because they are on with battery. Has anyone tried to shield the area around the converter with tin foil or such to stop the interference? I'm gong to try it today and will report back on the results.

[Taranwanderer]

Good luck finding tin foil, I don't think they make it anymore. And I'm sure not taking my hat apart to shield a converter...

[Play Harder]

Sure sounds like a AC ground loop problem. I'd try coiling input to radio w some big magnets to cut interference and isolate ground from inverter - I don't think foil is going to help

[WolfWhistle]

I wonder if you have a WFCO converter? I also wonder if the interference is less outside your metal building?

There are those that say that a WFCO converter is the worst and that there are better brands out there, and cleaner than these, EMI wise. Progressive Electronics and IOTA claims to be. Although even WFCO claim to be class B compliant... by the way the standard isn't enforced (is there an FCC???)

Wiring acts like an antenna for the RF generated by the "sloppy" converter; that is your problem.

A possible way to reduce this is with a Ferrite bead (or two) placed around the 120vac input to the converter. You will need a "mix 31" bead; which is for the lower frequencies of the AM band. I know a split bead isn't as good, but you might want to try it and see. Either running a loop through the bead (two passes of 10ga will be an issue) or a second bead could work better. What the bead does is to add resistance (reluctance) so 60HZ passes easily, but high frequencies don't. See link.

A single loop in the power wire through the bead, might be something to experiment with, or multiple beads.

A bead placed on low voltage side (power to the radio) will be useless (or so I think)

A permanent solution will probably be a cleaner converter such as the Progressive or IOTA. Or ditch the converter and get a good (like a Magnum) inverter with built in charger.

Palomar Engineers Ferrite Split Bead FSB 1 1" ID Snap on RFI EFI Mix 31 | eBay

Your converter will burn up if you wrap it in foil, but a metal cage is a possibility, if however expensive and possibly not effective in solving the problem.

WW

[Flybob]

LED light modules contain LED chips and high frequency components to generate the voltages and currents needed to operate the chips. Many of the inexpensive Chinese modules use sub standard analog components that generate broadband RF noise that can interfere with TV and radio interference. I have always recommended anyone looking to replace the lights in their RV to purchase one and try it for interference before buying 8-10.

[Stank Bait]

Try walking around with a small an AM radio and seeing if you can locate the noise. Turn circuits off at breaker and turn on one at a time. Turn on / off each load on each circuit. Maybe that will help to localize the source.

[SeaDog]

I do have the WFCO converter. I know its not the LED lights because when I'm only on battery the radio is clear with no interference. While I'm on shore power I'm going to chase the power coming in and the ground and ensure all connections are tight then I will try isolating the circuits one at a time and see if that has an effect if none of these work I'm going to try a choke coil on the power line. I do have the means to make a sheet metal box for the converter to sit in. In my old Winnebago the converter sits in a metal box. Thanks for the ideas I will post when I get the problem solved.